Question about Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

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After electrician left, dryer no longer heats. Opened Breaker box and saw black wire to dryer breaker loosely sitting next to the red wire which is solidly affixed to its post, I move the black wire to the empty post on the breaker and now dryer heats up. Is this right or should these two wires be on the same post?

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  • 304 Answers

No, they should be on separate posts of the same two pole breaker. That can be one breaker with 2 interconnected switches or one double wide breaker with a single switch.

The knowledge you have gained is not to call this electrician again. You know more than he does or carelessness such as he exhibited can be deadly.

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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Our glass top range quit last night. The breaker threw and when reset, it snaps. All 4 burners, lights, etc not working.


any electrician knows that besides a short activating a breaker , items such as leaking insulation , moisture , or control unit problems will trip a breaker
so get in an electrician to test everything

Jul 05, 2017 | Dryers

1 Answer

Replaced all parts for dryer because of no heat dryer runs drum turns had breaker and wiring going into dryer everything ok still no heat could wires be backwards going to replacement parts?


Electric dryers have as many as three thermal fuses. See if you might have missed one. One next to coils, one next to drum and one near the lint trap at air outlet. All three have different trip settings.

Jan 04, 2016 | Dryers

1 Answer

When we start the dryer the gfi trips. i have looked under the dryer and see no loose or broken wires


Could be your dryer breaker isn't big enough in terms of gfi use. If we use our washer with any other appliance, we trip the breaker, it's the wiring to the breaker box, the breaker can't support that much use, you might need to upgrade your breaker or wire it differently. Call an electrician to do it, if you mess up, you'll electrify yourself. Wow that was an old question, doesn't anyone use this site?

Jun 14, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do i know when 220 circuit breakers are bad


Always match breaker and wire size:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

Feel if breaker is getting warm.
Listen for crackling sound.
Breaker is tripping.
Move wires to another same-size circuit breaker and see if problem continues.

Check watt or amp load on breaker.
For example water heater label shows 4500 watt non-simultaneous.
4500 watts divided by 240 volts = 18.75 amps.
You might think 20 amp breaker was good in this case.
However electricians use 80% safe maximum.
20 amp breaker x 80% safe max = 16 amps.
Water heater is 18.75 amps, so install 30 amp breaker.
30 amp breaker uses 10 gauge wire.
This means wire to breaker will run cool and not get hot, so breaker lasts longer, and there is more efficiency.
Using 80% safe maximum rule protects home, reduces heat wear on breakers and breaker box so everything lasts longer.

Nov 18, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Can a circuit breaker fail? There is no power in my daughters room, but the circuit breaker seems to be fine. It doesn't reset or fix the problem.


Make sure to click breaker completely over to one side and then click all the way back to reset.

Yes, breakers go bad.

You can check your breaker in a simple way.

Turn main breaker OFF.
Mark daughter's breaker.
Take cover off breaker box.
The main breaker will still have power on the lugs where big wires connect.
Rest of box will have no power.
Notice that each 120 volt breaker has a wire connected to end of breaker.
Use screwdriver and tighten this wire.
If screw is already tight, then loosen screw and pull wire out, and move wire to another breaker marked with same amperage. For example if daughter's breaker is 20, then move wire to another 20. Now there will be two wires connected to that breaker.
Turn power ON and see if daughter's room is restored.
This set up will work fine until you have time to replace breaker with same brand as marked on breaker box, usually available at home center (if available).

If power is not restored by moving wire, then there is a loose wire inside a junction box located in daughter's room.
Test each receptacle in room to confirm that nothing on that circuit has power.
If some receptacles have power, start opening other receptacle boxes looking for loose wire, especially at the quick-connects where wires stab into back of receptacle device.
If whole circuit is off, then to isolate location of loose wire, start at the ceiling box, and see if there is a loose black or white wire. Most electricians run wire from breaker to the ceiling box, and then other wires spread out from there and go box to box until each box has a black and white wire that connects back to original breaker.

Dec 29, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Why does my 100 amp main get so hot the black wire is starting to melt, should'nt the breaker trip if there is that much draw?


You need an electrician before there is a fire.
If the breaker is not tripping, then the breaker is bad.

Act now before the heat damages the box and you need full replacement.
Absolutely put the metal cover back over the breaker box and keep the door closed.
Move all flammables away fro breaker box area.
Put a smoke detector right there.
Put a fire extinguisher nearby.
You don't put water on an electrical fire.

Before the electrician gets there, turn off as many electrical devices as you can.
Don't run all at one time.
Run just when needed.
Electric water heater.
Space heaters.
Vent fans.
Electric Stove.
Electric Oven.
Microwave.
Heat AC.
Electric Dryer.
Washing machine.
Power tools.
Big screen TV.
The outdoor lights, and swimming pool pump.
Turn off as many indoor lights as possible.

Now the freezers and refrigerator have to stay on.
Clean out the grilles so they run more efficiently.

Reducing your power consumption will be good practice.
When you call the electrician, tell him the brand and amperage of your main breaker.

If the whole box needs replacement, you might want to upgrade the service to 150Amp.
Some areas, it's code that old panels have to be upgraded to more amperage ... but the electrician will know the details. Call local electric supply house to double-check what the electrician tells you.

Nov 08, 2010 | General Electric 100Amp 3-pole circuit...

2 Answers

No power to the receptacles on a circuit, the breaker isn't tripped. there are no GFI's


No breakers are tripped and a circuit is dead.

There is a loose wire.

Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.

The cable leaves the circuit breaker box and travels to the first junction box. The junction box is a ceiling box that holds light or fan -or- a wall box containing switch or plug. As a general rule, the romex leaves the breaker box and travels all the way to a junction box located right in the area where lights and plugs are located. The romex does not stop at a junction boxes located in other room.

Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.

So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.

Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.

The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.

Here's what to do.
1) Breaker first: You can isolate the suspect breaker by identifying all other breakers. Then tighten screw on suspect breaker. Look for white wire and ground wire associated with the romex cable that connects to breaker >> tighten those screws on neutral busbar. Look for burning around suspect breaker. Is there a burning smell indicating breaker is bad?

2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.

The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.

Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle

If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.

Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.

Oct 11, 2010 | Connecticut Electric Square D Packaged...

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer no heat?


Sounds like the terminal block shorted. This was caused most likely by a broken element. It's located in a pan on the inside back panel of the dryer. It's a coil type, meaning that it comes in a bag and you have to stretch it out and string it. It's not hard and the bag has the instructions. It will even tell you how far to stretch the coil before you string it. The thermal limiter fuse is a normally closed switch that opens on the rise. When the heat at the element gets 220 degrees, it cuts power to elements. There is also a thermostat that is located on the vent housing that is the same kind but looks a little different, when the temp reaches 260 degrees inside the vent, it opens.
If it were mine, I would replace the element and the terminal block. I would also check the thermostat and the thermal limiter fuse and see if they have continuity. If so, it's ready to go and should be fine for years in theory. Good luck

Oct 19, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

HAVE A 8 YEAR DRYER( Kitchen Aid)


I would be checking the service panel. I'm assuming the dryer has been working in that outlet. If the breaker is over 50 amps that is why it didn't trip. But the breaker may be bad itself. Make sure it is wired properly. Red wire should go on one side of the breaker and the black on the other. The white should go over to the neutral bar. Then make sure the outlet you plug into is wired the same way. (MAKE CERTAIN THAT BREAKER IS OFF) The top two prongs should have a red on one side and a black on the other, with the white at the bottom. If these are correctly wired, the problem is either in the breaker or inside the dryer. Depending upon the model you have, a 50 amp double breaker isn't prohibitively priced. If you buy the breaker, wire it the same, turn it on, plug in the dryer and it happens again, the dryer is at fault. Coils burn out inside them, lugs burn through, but I'd feel more comfortable at that point calling a service man, tell him what you've done with wiring, breaker, and outlets. It may be time for a new dryer.

Good luck!

Sirwriter

May 16, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I HAD GAS DRYER AND I JUST CHANGED OVER TO ELEC AND I WAS TOLD TO USE THE NEW 4 PRONG SO I WIRED IT IN AND I DIDN`T HAVE A ONE PIECE BREAKER SO I USED TWO 15 AMP TOGETHER AND I HAVE NO HEAT IN THE DRYER....


You need a 30amp double pole breaker and be certain that the fuse box is a grounded box, so that your white neutral wire is separated from the green ground wire.
On the dryer your wiring should be as follows:
Red.....left or right terminal
Black...Left or right terminal, (or remaining end terminal)
White...Center terminal
Green: Attached to dryer frame or chassis terminal

In the fuse box:
Black to 1 breaker terminal
Red to other breaker terminal
White to neutral terminals in the box
Green to the ground terminals in the box

If you have no green or ground terminals in the box, then the green wire at the dryer should be connected to an active ground source, i.e., a copper water line or preferrably a copper ground rod.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Jun 23, 2008 | Dryers

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