Question about Yamaha DSP-A3090 7-Channel Amplifier

3 Answers

3090 input selector cuts in and out

Hey All,

I think we should start a club – if so I would join as I have a similar problem. My input selector cuts in and out (especially when I first turn the unit on) I think it needs to heat up in order for it to work. The selector switch also can dim and/or go crazy (auto switching itself over and over).

Not sure what to do. I live in NYC and there is a repair facility 1 mile from my place but they want $75 just to look at it (not including anything else). What it really comes down to for me is; has this piece of equipment meet its usable life and should now be replaced? All the new models have many more features and types of technology that wasn’t even available back in 1998. however, I would be willing to keep this unit and repair it if the quality is superior to today’s models.

Does anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, comments, etc.?

Thanks –

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My A3090 was purchased in 1996 and began to having problems with the input selector around 2006. The first symptom was difficulty finding the proper position for a input selected via the remote and bouncing back and forth many times before stopping-- sometimes in the correct position, other times not. Sometimes the selector would stop in between inputs and that would result in intermittent loss of sound, picture, flickering, etc. Once incorrectly positioned between inputs, even manually turning the knob will not fix the problem-- you must use the remote and select an input at one extreme or the other to reset the indexing.
Recently the problem worsened such that I was motivated to remove the cover and have a look. The selector and motor are soldered components on a small circuit board that appears to be dedicated to just that function. No rotary contacts are visible and the mechanical portion does not look like it can be disassembled without first removing it from the circuit board. The assembly is connected via a wire bundle and ribbon cable to two other circuit boards. I suspect the actual signal switching isn't even done inside the selector component-- it just reports the selector position via the ribbon cable to the main processing board. And it wouldn't surprise me if there aren't any contacts inside the selector that can be cleaned.
Seeing the ribbon cables immediately raised a warning flag because decades ago I saw similar cable connections cause many problems in personal computers. Back then they were very prone to corrosion and connection issues at each end. So I removed and reinserted the ribbon cable on both ends in hopes of improving the connections and that seems to have fixed the problems I was seeing. (Please note: This was done with the receiver power cord unplugged and *very* careful avoidance of any other components inside the receiver-- like the bank of capacitors adjacent to the input selector. I'm not a technician and don't know if any of them still held a charge. This is just an account of what I did and the results I saw, it's not a recommendation.)

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

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This type of problem is not unusual for older electronics. The constant heat and cold cycles make some of the solder connections fail over time. This could be as simple as a few poor solder connections that appear to 'repair" themselves once the unit heats up. This should be a labor only repair. Since I highly doubt you can replace the unit for anything close to the repair cost, it probably is worth the repair.


Posted on Sep 05, 2009

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I do have the same amp with the same problem,the problem appears to be the selector its self as is very common to this type of mechanical selectors that the contacts are getting over the time a kind of corrosion,so you need to clean it very good with a contact spray or even better to dissasembly the selector and clean the contacts by hand.

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

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