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There should be a code appearing on the display. If you are not getting any 12V to the Fridge your fridge will not function. You may also want to check for any blown fuses inside the electronic board assembly. ">
check for a gas shut off inside the fridge cabinet as well. You may have to bleed all the air out of the lines before the fridge will get gas. either keep trying or run stove burners to make sure gas is working. Also look for debris inside the burn chamber near the thermocouple/pilot light. I had rust fall from the exhaust tube and block the burner area. Cleaned it up and it works fine now.
Even if your plugged in, you'll have to confirm you have 12Volts DC going to back of fridge at connections, behind vent cover. Is the upper board on front of fridge lighting up when you turn it on? Could you also give me model number off fridge to help guide you better ? Model # should be on inside of fridge.
Try to unplug it from the battery a few hours and then plug it back in and see if you are now able to select the AC or LP mode. There has been a recall on the 1200LRIM, The defect is a potential cooling unit leak caused during AC electric mode operation. Click on the link below to read more:
You need a little more knowledge ... I'm here to give it.
Your RV refrigerator requires 12 volts to operate; on gas or on electric ... it needs 12 volts - period.
Now then, your frig will get 12 volts from your 'power converter' AND/OR your battery. You do have a battery in your unit, correct? If not - why not? Get one. (Your power converter cannot provide all the 12 volts you potentially require in all circumstances. It is there to charge the battery, which CAN supply all the 12 volts you require. The converter can probably put out 15 amps - your battery can put out 100 amps or more (@ 12 volts DC). Relying only on the converter for your 12 volts will cause over heating and will eventually destroy the converter. Batteries are about $100.00 - converters are about $300.00.
As you know, your frig will run on gas if you are plugged in or on generator ... that allows your frig to get the 12 volts required to run the controls.
What about electric operation? If you are plugged in or on generator, you can run on electric because your Norcold has 12 volts from the converter and/or battery.
Whats going on? Your absorbtion type refrigerator requires a heat source to boil the ammonia mixture to create "heat removing" (you can't really cool anything ... only remove the heat from it!) You can heat the ammonia with a flame or with a electric CALROD. However, the control panel that drives the whole operation runs of 12 volts.
You have a battery and generator and are plugged in and it still doesn't work? You will find a fuse on the control panel in the compartment accessible from the outside of your unit. Check/replace the faulty fuse and you will be back in business.
I hope this helps you and hubby with your Norcold Frig. Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com. If you found this solution to be helpful, please vote. Thanks
The old converter may have blown out the control board for your 'fridge. This is quite common if the voltage exceeds 15.5 volts, and when there is a ripple voltage (AC voltage component) riding on top of the DC voltage.
Gas / LP mode is the default for this fridge, a fail safe mode.
You can find the service manual for your fridge here.
One of two problems. The auto switch is bad or the lower circuit board is not doing its job. You can call norcold technical or take the board to a service center and have it checked with the tester they should have. The lower board retails for 176.00. I looked at my tech file and it is a little vague on your particular situation. If I were repairing your fridge I would take the smart route and call technical. Hope you get your problem solved. If you need more help please feel free. Regards