Question about Hayward 100,000 BTU Pool Heater H100ID1 - Above Ground

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Hayward 100 series Above Ground 100,000 BTU heater

Water diverter plate is moving upon inspection. This is making the heater shake and the water boil inside. I have seen posts saying to tach weld or epoxy the plate where it should be. When looking in from the water inlet side, should the plate be welded / epoxied in the up or down position. My welder thinks it should be up. Same question for looking in from the water outlet side. It apears it should be down. Any Info ??

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Here is a copy of the users manual for these pool heaters. Try the troubleshooting guide. It should help you figure out the problem.

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/images/Hayward/H100-Manual.pdf

Posted on Dec 07, 2010

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I did this: https://sites.google.com/site/haywardpoolheater/ and it works perfectly. No welding and fixed in 30 minutes

Posted on Aug 26, 2010

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This plate is an internal by-pass if it sticks open this is what you will get if it sticks closed the water will move to fast to heat and you will get low heat after it runs way to long. If it moves freely and has the proper spring in it you will get nether of these. For my money i would replace it with a new one and be careful with your chems as this is what will kill on and after time ruin the whole heater. Figure they pay a bunch of engeneers to get it right and virturaly all heaters have these in them in one form or another. In answer to your question you will want it stuck closed, but be reminded your heater will run on about twice the gas and get you mabey two thirds the heat.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

  • app_3rp12317
    app_3rp12317 Jan 09, 2012

    Why would diverting more water through the heat scavengers consume more propane?

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is this heater is been install for above the ground pool it will be better either way to use a hard schedulle 40 pvc to prevent any checking in the hoses for future leak ,is the heater connections are correct in and out , mean from the return the filter go to inlet side the heater them the outlet side of the heter (HOT WATER) GO TO RETURNS of the pool ? also check if the pump got full prime not air,is the filter is clean? also check for any brocken parts inside the flowvalve control, after years low PH AND TA will destroy internal parts in heater include leaking heater exchangers.

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I have a hayward H100ID above ground pool heater. Recently the heater is making a rattling sound and the in and out hoses are bucking or pulsating. The water is still being heated but somehting does not...


Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


The Hayward H100 has a diverter plate welded into the header that helps direct some of the water flowing thru into the heat exchanger to heat the water. If the weld fails the diverter can interfere with that flow and cause overheating or poor flow thru the heater which in turn can lead to the problems you describe.


Remove the inlet side hose once you have blocked the flow of water from the pool and you should see the diverter in the inlet. If you can move it then it is broken and needs to be fixed back in place or the whole heat exchanger needs to be replaced.


If the diverter is not moving then your issue is likely an overall water flow one and the next place to look is the filter. Poor overall system flow may be enough to close the pressure switch telling the heater the pump is on but not enough to keep the water in the exchanger from getting too hot, again causing the symptoms you describe.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


John

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Check your water flow and make sure your by-passes are set to send water threw the heater. That is to say shut off. The water in the heater is over heating and the clunking is the water turning to steam.

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You can try to get a welding shop to tack it back in place (I do not remember who to credit for that but it was not my suggestion) and see if it stops.

The exchanger is expensive as a DIY part...about $350...but if that is all that is wrong it is a lot cheaper than $700+ for a whole new unit.

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My Hayward AG 100,000 btu heater ran well for the last two seasons. This season I hear a rattling type noise, and the hose that feeds the heater shakes at times. Other times the noise and shaking subside....


That plate should not move at all. If it is moving is is damaged. In the past that meant replacing the heat exchanger but I recently had someone tell me they took theirs to a radiator shop that tach welded the plate in place and it works fine now. Either way, the rattle is from water boiling in the unit due to poor flow through the heat excahnger. The plate we are talking about is what controls that flow.

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I had this problem with mine ( hayward h series abg100 ): exhaust fan turned on, waited approx 15sec, gas turned on, ignition, flame lit (can verify in flame window below knob), stayed lit for ~5-10 seconds (varied), I heard popping, cracking, knocking, banging noises, then gas turned off.

I believe the reason it does this is the bypass/diverter plate in the exchanger (right at the inlet side) is loose; the weld broke loose. They weld this very poorly and is obviously a known issue with the unit. I think storing it outside in the winter doesnt help. Another reason for the noise could be not enough water going through the exchanger because of a problem with the diverter plate, therefore the exchange gets to hot and boils.

I believe the ignition board senses this somehow (not sure how though, only way I can think of is via the ignition sensor), and cuts off the gas. I managed to fix this by putting on a small stainless steel hose clamp around the thermostat forcing the divertor plate tight up against the top so the water flows through the 3 exchange pipes. This was a very difficult maneuver due to working inside the tight pipe, but it worked!

You can check if you have the same problem as me by taking off your hose input to the heater, and removing the outer 2 PVC reducer connectors. Then you'll have access and sight to the exchanger input (3" pipe?) and should see what I'm talking about. If the plate moves (or isn't tight) then you most likely have the same issue. kevin71246@hotmail.com if you have questions.

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2 Answers

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I had this problem with mine ( hayward h series abg100 ): exhaust fan turned on, waited approx 15sec, gas turned on, ignition, flame lit (can verify in flame window below knob), stayed lit for ~5-10 seconds (varied), I heard popping, cracking, knocking, banging noises, then gas turned off.

I believe the reason it does this is the bypass/diverter plate in the exchanger (right at the inlet side) is loose; the weld broke loose. They weld this very poorly and is obviously a known issue with the unit. I think storing it outside in the winter doesnt help. Another reason for the noise could be not enough water going through the exchanger because of a problem with the diverter plate, therefore the exchange gets to hot and boils.

I believe the ignition board senses this somehow (not sure how though, only way I can think of is via the ignition sensor), and cuts off the gas. I managed to fix this by putting on a small stainless steel hose clamp around the thermostat forcing the divertor plate tight up against the top so the water flows through the 3 exchange pipes. This was a very difficult maneuver due to working inside the tight pipe, but it worked!

You can check if you have the same problem as me by taking off your hose input to the heater, and removing the outer 2 PVC reducer connectors. Then you'll have access and sight to the exchanger input (3" pipe?) and should see what I'm talking about. If the plate moves (or isn't tight) then you most likely have the same issue. kevin71246@hotmail.com if you have questions.

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You will likely find the diverter in the inlet side of the heater is broken. You are looking for a stainless steel plate in the water path. If you can move it by hand, it is broke. It is not replaceable and requires a new heat exchanger assembly to repair it.

Your part number is IDXHXA1101. We sell it as will most pool dealers. If you would like a quote, contact us at www.arrowmotor.net

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