Question about Mitsubishi WD-62725 62" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

2 Answers

Blinking Green light after Capacitor kit replacement WD-62725

I have a 2004 Mits WD-62725. First the red-light came on, so I got a new lamp. Didn't fix it. So I put another new lamp, same thing.
The TV would start the blinking green light, then turn off. Then I turn the TV on, after 5 minutes of no picture, the light turns red again.

Self diagnosis before the light would turn red would give a 12 (no issues).. But once the red light would come on I was getting code 34 (lamp failure). However I have 2 brand new lamps.

So I did some research and found out I probably needed the capictor kit. I replaced them all except the (2) 3300uf 16v (biggest in the kit), becuase the replacement caps are phystically too big to fit on the board.
I'm going to hit up Radio Shack to see if I can get some with a smaller foot print but same specs.

However the (2) 2200uf 10v caps had the puffy top look, and they were replaced with (2) 2200uf 16v caps.

I put the TV back together and now all I get is the constant blinking light for hours.

How likely is it that the 3300uf caps are bad? Should I just replace ALL of the caps on the board?? I just realized Radio shack has all of these caps for less than $30 total....

Any chance it could be the ballast?

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  • bigcrumb34 Sep 07, 2009

    Thanks for the recommendation! But how do I get to the other 4 boards?

    Here's the latest update!

    I started with the 8 more common caps that go bad according to that service manulas website.
    However I noticed a couple other caps were bulging, so I went ahead and bought replacements for all of the caps ($29 at Practical Electrical in Tampa FL).
    I replaced only the obviously bad ones (puffy tops) and still no fix.

    So finally I gave in and replaced all of the caps, EXCEPT for the really big brown ones.

    Anyway, once all the caps were replaced I put the TV back together about 90% just to test it, and sure enough it WORKED! The green letters came on that said "did you replace the lamp" I pressed ENTER for yes and began my victory dance.

    HOWEVER, being that the TV was on top of my dining room table, I had to shut it down, finish putting it back together, and then I moved it back into the living room. I got it back up on the stand and plug all my imputs back in.
    I plugged the power cord back in and .... BLINKING GREEN LIGHT again!

    I'm absolutely at a loss for words! All caps were replaced, it works. I finish putting it together and move it, and now it's as if I haven't done squat!

    Any more suggestions would be awesome!!

  • bigcrumb34 Sep 07, 2009

    Thanks for the response. I replaced ALL the caps and I got a picture. However the TV was only 90% put back together when I tested it. So I shut it down and finished putting it back together, moved into the living room and powered it back on.... blinking green light again!!\r\nAny clue what the deal is with that?

  • bigcrumb34 Sep 08, 2009

    Yah I let it blink nearly 30 minutes just to be sure.

    It all started with the red lamp status light. But I put a new lamp in, and the TV would blink green anywhere between 30 seconds up to 5 minutes before going off. Once the light went off, I could press the power buttom. The light would turn solid green as if it were going to come on, but after a couple minutes of no picture, the lamp status light would turn red again.

    If I un-plugged or reset the TV, it would blink green again for any amount of time, usually no more than 5 minutes and then clear. Once it was clear it wouldn't do any codes. But again when I try to turn it on, it would eventually go red and then show the 3-4 code.

    I did research on the 3-4 code and found that if you knew you had a good lamp but were still getting the blinking green light to solid red light it means you have bad capicitors.

    I replaced the capicitors that came in the kit from Service, and all that did was keep the TV from ever going to the red light. It would just blink green for hours and hours.

    So I just replaced ALL of the caps, put it back together 90% (I left the back panel off) just to test it. THE TV WORKED!
    So I know replacing the caps worked.

    But I unplugged the TV, finished putting it back together, moved it into the living room, plugged it in, and the lamp just blinks green non-stop again just like when I replaced the first set of caps.

    I didn't re-do any plugs or anthing.

    Do you know if I can buy the whole board with all new caps from Mitsubishi?

    Thanks for all the comments so far.



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I just repaired two Mit WD-62725 sets in the last two weeks.
The first one had bad caps on the power board and the FMT board. The scond one had bad caps on four out of the five boards.
Also, on the FMT board, there was a blown surface-mount fuse.
I advise checking all of the boards for bad caps. If you fine a bad 1000uf cap, replace all of the 1000uf's on the board.
Hop this helps,

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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  • Dan Smith
    Dan Smith Sep 07, 2009


    Man, what a major bummer to put it back together and not have it work. I assume you let the tv blink for at least two minutes while it boots up. I would not think the big brown caps are bad. Sorry, I can't think of anything else to check other than a cable may have come loose during assembly.

  • Dan Smith
    Dan Smith Sep 07, 2009


    - I replaced most of the 1000uF caps, two 3300uF, and two 1500uF caps.

  • Dan Smith
    Dan Smith Sep 10, 2009


    You had it working on the table.

    So, the caps you replaced did the trick.

    Don't give up. If you had the patience to disassemble and reassemble this monster, you can get it working.

    If you open it back up, make sure to check the axial fuses as well as the micro fuses. I found a blown micro fuse on the FMT board.

    Good luck, and let us know when you you get it working.

    Sorry, not much help other than encouragement.

  • Dan Smith
    Dan Smith Mar 30, 2010

    Well, it turns out that a majority of surface-mount caps go bad as well. I replaced about 100 caps on four boards. I reckon that since some functions on the TV are always running even when turned off, that heat eventually kills the caps. I read somewhere that the set draws 60 watts while plugged in but turned off! After replacing a crud-load of caps, my (3) sets work and look great. My sets were free, so I can't complain.


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  • 556 Answers

It is most likely not the ballast, it won't cause the constant blinking light, you can try changing the caps, but we have been having to send the whole chassis in to Mitsubishi for them to rebuild even after changing all the caps, but I would give it a shot of changing the caps first. Good luck.

Posted on Sep 04, 2009


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