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First, to transmit to your machine using a USB to serial converter, it should have a FTDI chip. Second, you should be transmitting on Com 1 or 2 -- preferably Com1. You can change the port it transmits on in the Device Manager in computer properties on your computer. Third, check on your machine which port it's looking for -- they must match.
Sounds like the float in the carburetor is stuck. Its inside the bottom of the carburetor inside the bowl. The bowl is just the bottom cover of the carburetor..its an empty bowl shaped bottom that fills with fuel...controlled by position of float that works essentially like a fishing bobber. Remove bowl and press the float up and down it should move freely. If there is any resistance or float does not drop down with bowl removed. The pin that holds the float in place needs to be removed and cleaned. I would also wire brush out the bowl and spray it, the float and float pin with carburetor cleaner. You do not need to disassemble the rest of the carburetor to check and clean the float. In the picture the float is #2, float pin #12, I think there are four bolts #14 that hold the bowl on.
Remove the bowl, turn it upside down on a towel, look up inside the pedestal. Right in the middle where the hinge pin goes through there is a screw, unscrew it a little, push the hinge pin back to where it belongs and then tighten the screw up tight. Turn mixer up the right way, raise head up, fit bowl & flat paddle. Lower head & turn machine on low, listen for paddle tinging on bowl, if it is touching turn off and raise the head. Look into hinge area from the front, that screw is the head height adjustment. Clockwise to lower paddle in bowl, anti clockwise to raise. You want to lower it until you hear the paddle tinging on the bowl & then raise it enough to clear without tinging. You don't wind the screw in & out huge amounts, 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time is plenty.
Sounds like the float valve is sticking open. You will have to drain the gas (or at least turn off the valve where the gas leaves the tank if so equipped.) Then remove the bowl to clean the float valve. (There is usually a nut in middle of the bowl.) The bowl looks like a bowl, and is about 2 inches in diameter. When you remove it you will see the float, which probably looks like a little brass donut. If you remove the hinge pin that allows the float to move up and down (it only moves about 1/2 inch) you will then allow the valve pin to fall out. The valve pin is about 3/4 inches long and maybe 3/16 diameter. (I am not measuring these things, just giving approximate dimensions so you will recognize them when you see them.)
Good luck,
Al K
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
I understand this is a 2200 / 2500 W generator with an automatic idle control and that you have a 5.5 Hp GX160 engine
Perform the following:
1. Turn off the fuel selector
2. Remove the float bowl nut and bowl
3. Dump the bowl contents
4. In the threaded area where the bowl nut screws into the carb.... there is a Brass orifice. Use a thinner than usual standard screwdriver and remove the orifice / jet. As you look at the screwdriver handle inverted rotation for the jet removal will be clockwise. There s a pin hole in the orifice.... clean-out the pin hole but DO NOT poke anything into the jet hole and make it bigger. Just clean it thoroughly. Hold it up to the light and look for the pin hole after cleaning.
5. Before reinstalling the jet / orifice spray carb cleaner up into the hole your removed the jet from.
6. Also before installig the jet... briefly turn on the fuel selector and watch for fuel flow from the float needle area with the float DOWN. Gently raise the float with one finger to horizontal and make sure the fuel flow stops. Then make sure fuel flow starts again when lowered. No fuel flow here = problems from the fuel tank outlet to the fuel mainifold on the carb. (can be a clogged fuel filter if so equipped) Also some fuel selectors have a mini-bowl under them. Unscrew the mini-bowl if you have one and remove the debris. Pull the hose off the carb fuel manifold fitting and check fuel flow again by briefly turning of the fuel selector. If you have fuel here and no fuel at the float needle then the manifold is clogged and you will have to remove the float and needle then spray carb cleaner into the float needle hole watching for carb cleaner to shoot out the fuel manifold fitting.
Reassemble float and needle along with reattaching the main fuel hose to the fuel manifold fitting.
7. Reinstall the orifice / jet.
8. Reinstall the fuel float bowl and nut.
9. Fuel selector on and check for leaks.... min 1 min pause
10. TEST engine performance now.
11. If the problem persists then the most likely suspect is the automatic idle control assembly. For troubleshooting... grip the governor arm and hold it steady to see if the engine maintains a constant speed. If by holding the governor arm still you have a constant engine speed; you have a bad automatic idle control.
Unless the automatic idle control is failing....the cleaning procedure above usually brings them back to normal operation.
I assume you mean the pivot pin on which the top half of the mixer pivots to remove the bowl is sticking out of the side of the stand. Turn the mixer upside down and look up inside the stand which is hollow. You will see a screw. Tap the pin back into position and then tighten the screw.
Now to fix the drooping, and I assume you mean the beaters are hitting the bottom of the bowl, tip the mixer back and look into the hinge area. You will see a rather large screw. Turn it ccw a turn and check the beater to see if it is still hitting the bottom of the bowl. Repeat the procedure until you have 1/4 inch clearance or so from the bottom of the beater to the bowl.
Sounds like a carb problem there. If you are going to take the carb apart, and before you do, just remove the main jet in the center of the bowl and clear the very small holes in the bowl nut before you try anything else. The bowl nut can be removed and still leave the bowl in tac on the carburetor. If you remove the bowl make sure you check the copper float to see that you don't have a leak in it. If you do, then the float is too heavy to shut the needle valve off thereby causing flooding. Those copper floats do leak and gasoline will get in them. Remove the pin that keeps the float on, then dry off the float and give it a good shake. If there is gas in the float you'll probably see the float get wet with gas or you may hear the gas flopping around inside the float. If so replace the float and the needle valve as well as install a new o ring so the bowl will have a leak free fit when you install the bowl. Take a good look at the bowl before you put it back on. It'll have an indent into it. The indent should be put in place with the float pin. Good luck
(A) Set-up
1) The inner bowl is supported by (2) heavy springs at the top, plus (2) telescopic shock absorbers beneath the bowl.
(B) Observed Problem
1) Inner bowl was missaligned, causing out of balance knocking & banging, also drive belt was squealing from misalignment.
(C) Remedy:
1) Disconnect power from outlet.
2) Remove (4) screws from back plate, remove back plate.
3) Bowl is suspended on (2) heavy springs from top, and (2) telescopic shock absorbers below bowl.
4) Inspection showed plastic pin retaining shock absorber end to frame had fallen out.
5) Place old carpet or whatever on floor, invert washing machine.
6) Re-align end of shock absorber into housing piece.
7) Re-insert plastic pin (about 2 inches long x 1/2 inch diameter) securely into place.
8) Re-assemble.
Also:
a) It could be one of the top springs as per (B)1 above may have broken or become loose.
b) In this case the top cover plate is easily removed from machine by removing (2) screws at the rear top of cover.
This gives access to the (2) heavy springs, which are easily repaired.
Note:
Sometimes the machine will not re-start again following out of balance problems.
1) Turn power off again, re-boot like computer.
2) There is also a re-boot procedure similar to Alt+Ctrl+Del on computer.
3) Use three buttons simulateously, Start+spin+option buttons or similar.
4) I fiddled with these until all lights lit up, then after a while the machine worked satsifactorily.
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