Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

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JGBP79 Bake Ignitor not glowing, even after replacing

I have a 5 year old JGBP79WEB5WW stove and the bake stopped working, sits at 100 degrees and the glow bar does not heat up. I took it out and measured resistance, it showed 115.7 ohms. Although I didn't think it was bad since it had continuity, I ordered a replacement off the web and it arrived today. I measured resistance of the new one and it show 247 ohms. I put it in and it does not glow either.

1. Does anyone know what the resistance of a good bake ignitor should be?

2. Assuming it's not the bake ignitor, what else can I troubleshoot?

Thank you!

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  • Inline Dec 12, 2007

    I'm not sure where these gas coils are. I am looking at the parts breakdown for the oven and don't see these things. Could you give me the number on the part diagram to look at?

    I have an update though. Maybe this will help someone help me fix the oven.

    I took apart the top oven control panel area to get access to the control board. I tested the relays and noticed a problem. When the oven/broiler is off, the broiler relay shows 0 VAC like it should, however the bake relay shows 6.9 VAC when it should show 0 VAC. When the bake operation is on, the bake relay shows 120 VAC like it should. So, in summary, the bake relay is showing 6.9 VAC when it should not.

    Next, I disconnected the bake ignitor and hooked my voltmeter the connector and started the bake operation. I only saw 7.9 VAC instead of the 120 VAC like it should be showing. Which explains why the bake ignitor never glows. It is getting voltage, but no where near what it should be.

    As a side note, I tested the resistance of the oven temp sensor and it read 1100 ohms at room temp like it should, so that part is fine.

    Based on what I've found, I'm assuming that the safety valve is fine, since if it failed and it's in series with the bake ignitor, I should have 0 VAC when the bake cycle is on. Therefore, I'm guessing that since the relay should incorrect voltage, that maybe something is wrong with the relay and/or the main control board?

    I'd appreciate any assistance trying to nail this down.

    Many thanks.

  • Inline Dec 17, 2007

    Ok, long story short, it seems it was the bake ignitor that was the problem. The reason for the problems with voltage is that when I pulled on the bake ignitior wiring to get to the quick release connector, it pulled one of the yellow wires off of the gas safety valve and therefore I had the voltage issues (7.9VAC). I reconnected the yellow wire to the gas valve (this stuff is easy to get to by removing the warming drawer) and installing the new bake ignitor. The oven now maintains a consistent temperture for over an hour and all looks good! Hope this helps someone else.



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My next step would be to replace the two gas coils. They are located on top the gas valve. Disconnect the elect. leads, pull upward on coils. Replace w/newones. The difference is a primary and secondary, one has two elect. prongs and one has three. Note which one goes where when you remove them and install new ones in the opposite. These tell the gas valves when to activate and allow gas to flow to your igniter. When they malfunction, and they do, you wont have gas flowing.

Posted on Dec 10, 2007


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Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

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