I have an Amana model LW8203L2 and would like to repair/replace the mixing valve. I think the lid should raise to allow access to the valve, but it is not coming up very easy. I don't want to damage anything so I stopped. Any help will be appreciated.
There are usually 2 screws on the front of the machine just above the lower access panel, but on the bottom of the front panel which need to be removed before the entire top of the machine will slide off of the front. Also be sure to access the control switch area to unplug the wiring harness before you move the top of the machine too far.
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Well It would be easier to say for sure if you gave a model number but most dryers have two tabs under the lid where the lid meets the front of the dryer. One on the left and one on the right you can depress these tabs by using a small flat head screw driver or a putty knife, before you depress the tabs to raise the lid you will need to remove your lint screen (On most whirlpool models) and remove the two Phillips head screws located under the lint screen, once you have removed them depress the tabs and raise the lid from there you will need to remove the front by taking out the two screws that connect the front to the body of the dryer located on the inside at the top of the front on the left and right side, then you need to disconnect the door switch wires now you should be able to remove the front. disconnect the belt from the idler pulley and remove the drum from there you will see the igniter and valve at the bottom of the dryer. If I were you I would replace the coil pack and the ignitor while I was in there.
This dryer is easy peasy to repair. Only 2 screws hold the element onto its mount. The limit and thermal fuse are also mounted on it. The control thermostat is mounted on the blower housing. Everything is accessed from the front. Get the front panel off by removing a few screws once you have raised that top. Then you can easily access that heater elementI looked up your model number and this dryer is an Amana type dryer Here is your manual
This problem is commonly caused by a water inlet valve (also known as a mixing valve) leaking by. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, sediment, rust or calcified deposits can accumulate in the inlet valve and cause it not to close properly. Usually when they start leaking, you need to replace them. The following link explains how to access and replace the valve:
Depends on the model. Usually on the back lower left side under tub or right behind the tub in the top center. The frist location you remove the front panel to get to element and the second location the lid has to be raised up
The machine control detected that the lid switch is not functioning properly. Raise the top part of the washer to gain access to the lid switch.
Disconnect the machine from the power source. Gently pry the emblem from the front of the machine and remove the T20 torx screw hidden behind it. Slide the top of the washer forward and raise its front. Prop it up high enough to allow easy access to the lid switch.
The lid switch is activated by an actuator (part number 19119) mounted on a hinge. It will not work properly if the actuator is damaged.
Check the operation of the lid switch using a multimeter. Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and connect the test leads of the multimeter (set to X1 or ohm) to the terminals of the lid switch and activate it. The multimeter should read zero ohms while the lid switch is activated and open when deactivated.
Replace the lid switch if it is broken or if it fails the test above. Remove the lid switch mounting screw and install the new lid switch. Reconnect the wiring harness and slide the top of the washer back into position. Reinstall the T20 torx screw and the emblem.
you will need to take the top off, look at back of the machine toward the top and you should have 2 to 3 screws to remove. slide the top toward you .. Please Do All Steps With Power Disconected from the machine. :)
Make sure you have turned the hot and cold water off befor you take the hoses off.
Make sure you watch what wires you take off of the valve and put them back where you found them.
The problem is a bad hot water solenoid on the water inlet valve (also known as a mixing valve). There is a separate solenoid for hot and cold water. If the hot water solenoid fails, you will not have any warm or hot water. Replacement is simple and inexpensive. The following link explains how to access and replace the inlet valve on a Kenmore top loading washer:
All these sites offer great service. Prices vary between them so shop and compare.
If you have any questions about this repair, or have need additional assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located along the wash tub rim under the washer lid). I hope this helps you.
NOTE: Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool, so these instructions do apply.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.