I appoligize for entering the wrong product info but i cant find anybody to ask about this fogging issue im having. maybe some of the fixes will work for this type of scope. Hoping to get some help with an issue with a Bushnell Sportview scope i just mounted on my .22. After picking up some mounting rings,i noticed that after looking through the scope it was no clear. so i cleaned both outter lenses with a cloth i use on my 35mm camera lenses. then i noticed that both inner lenes were fogged up. so i unscrewed each one, cleaned, replaced and did the same to the other. i am still not able to clear up the fogging so im thinking that opening the inner portion was not the brightest idea. any help would be great.
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Binoculars are normally purged of all air and filled with nitrogen to prevent fogging and mould issues. If one side fogs internally it's a sign that a seal has leaked and needs to be replaced. The manufacture or any camera repair store should be able to replace the seal and refill the chamber with nitrogen.
Hot air on clod windscreen will cause the window to fog up. You have to remove the humidity ( water in the air) inside the car to stop fogging up. The answer is to run the a/con which de humidifies the air then the heater can.do the job Run both together.r it is sometimes called climate control in cars.
The fog is most likely lens fungus and is very difficult to remove, so is also expensive to remove. It's not suited to a DIY repair without special tools and equipment. Spare parts for your lens are practically unobtainable, and camera and lens repairers are much rarer these days.
With all due respect, your lens is nearly worthless even if in perfect condition, so your lens is totally beyond economic repair.
You have the following options (in no particular order):-
1. Discard your lens and replace it. You can find replacements very cheaply online, although you may need to be a little flexible as to what's acceptable. Tamron Adaptall-2 lenses can be very good and you can switch the lens mounting to fit your Minolta MD. Lesser-regarded brands such as Sunagor were also in reality very good lenses and their 80-250mm has a very similar effective focal length to your Vivitar. Hoya were also a less-regarded brand despite actually making many of the lenses for "better" brands (including Vivitar, from time to time). You can also find replacement lenses for free either by asking around friends and relatives or by looking/asking on FreeCycle and Gumtree, although it is harder to find them for Minolta than say, Canon, Nikon or Pentax. On the flip side I have had many complete and perfectly functional 35mm SLR outfits from FreeCycle, so if the lens comes with a body attached who's complaining?
2. If the fogging does not affect your images then live with it. if it does reduce contrast, then consider scanning your negatives/transparencies and using free software to repair the images.
3. Leave your lens out in daylight with the lens cap removed. Some of the common types of lens fungus are destroyed by UV light. It won't physically remove the fungus, nor will it repair any damage to the optical elements inside your lens, but it can recover an otherwise unusable lens. If the fogging inside is due to moisture instead, then the fogging may dissipate if the lens is left in a warm and sunny location which is well ventilated. Marks may remain, but they'll rarely affect image quality.
Those restoration kits are only for the outside of the lenses. They oxidize and you use that kit to remove oxidation. If the haze is on the inside you need to replace the entire housing. They're sealed from the factory. Some people have tried to disassemble and clean insides but the success rate is very low.
You could have an air bubble in the system. It is also possible that the heater core has debris blocking the flow of water. I would check to see that you are getting good circulation by checking the heater hoses near the firewall. If they are both getting hot then you may have an air baffle issue inside the heater box.
If it gets foggy on the outside then yes. Just like glass when you breath hot air on it. Most commonly fogging occurs on the outside of the eyepiece lenses. This is because the heat from your body or breath is warmer than the glass and condensation occurs. You can do a few things to help this problem go away. One is to keep a little airspace between your face and the eyecups. If you press the eyecups against your brow with your head bowed a little it lets air flow from underneath. Another is to make a small hole in the eyecups to allow air to circulate. This will void and warranty as it is a deliberate act. Some military binoculars have a small hole for this reason. The other you can do is purchase a fog free cloth. This is a cloth that is imregnated with a chemical that leaves an invisible film on the glass helping keep it fog free. Just ask at a camera store which is suitable for use on coated optics.
This could be due to the shutter leaking light from the top or bottom, and it could also be caused by light leaking in through the camera back. The most common cause of edge fogging is light leaking in through the film canister, which happens over time if the unused film is not stored properly. If this is a high ISO film(400 and up) and you load your film into the camera in a very bright enviroment that can also cause film fogging. Try a brand new roll of film and if that doesn't resolve the problem I would have it looked at by a camera service technician.