The amp works beautifully once heated up for ten mins. until then the connection does not work unless you push forward (force) the back of the unit forward. I think there is a gap in the connection inside the amp and when it heats up the connection is pure again.
how do I fix this?
any suggestions/reasons welcome...
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The typical starting point for heat anticipation is .4 amp. If you do not have a clamp-on ammeter, adjust it to .45 and observe operation for a few days. If not quite right and still short cycling slip it to .5. Then keep doing this until you are satisfied cycle time is correct.
If you have an amprobe or can borrow one, remove the stat and take a single loooooong thermostat wire. Attach it to the R or Rh and wrap it around the clamp on ammeter ten times then attach the other end to the W terminal. The furnace will initiate the heat cycle at that point. Observe the amp reading on the amprobe when full heat is on, DIVIDE that reading by ten (for the wraps of wire) and adjust the heat anticipator to THAT setting.
The breaker is stuck because there's some internal circuit problem on the amp. Something is tripping it i.e. a wiring short or blown speaker driver if they're connected, or an output transistor has blown.
Fix the problem BEFORE trying to reset.
Switch all off. Disconnect your speakers from the power amp. Switch the amp back on. If it will reset now then you have a wiring or speaker issue. If it won't reset then the problem is something broke in the amp.
Transistors are part of the circuit board. They're soldered in and also bolted to heat sinks. Not a DIY fix unless you know what you're doing. Take the amp to a repair shop.
Are you sure you getting enough power to push everything. I have seen when the voltage is too low coming in, the amps will shut down so they don't overheat. Once they've cooled off and the volume level is lowered they will kick in again. Low voltage and a heavy draw will create massive amounts of heat.
so when all speaker wires removed and receiver on it still will go into protect mode and shut down? if so then it has to be heat is to great where you have your receiver placed. move your receiver from heat area and try to see if it keeps happening. another thing is you haven't stated if speakers are right for your system and or if ohm of speakers are right for your system. if the speakers are a lower ohm then what your system requires then you will put more demands on your system and cause more demand on receiver and create more heat in amp and it will shut down especially faster when you have it close to heat source. also speakers crackling is also a sign of too small of speaker gauge wire used which can also put demand on receiver and cause same problems.
The output transistors are over heating. Check the mounting surface to its' heat sink fins. Make sure the silicone heat compound is not dried out. Scrape the old coat then re-apply new coat if dry - should be somewhat sticky to the touch. Also, you can use an external fan to circulate the air inside. Check your speaker connections - do not parallel the speakers (having two or more connected on an output speaker terminal). This will force the amp to generate more current and cause it to heat faster. Then check the impedance of the speakers you're using - do not connect a 4 ohm speaker on an 8 ohm output terminal.
Remove your "new" heated gear harness, test functionality of audio. When installing the heated gear run new power and ground wires. Unless installing HD items and directed to use existing circuit. Good troubleshooting practice, if it nolonger works undo what you did then move forward after it works again. Hope this helps.