Hitachi EC12 Portable Electric 2hp Air Compressor, Oil Lubricated Logo

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Posted on Aug 27, 2009
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Pressure gauge doesn't seem to work. The compressor pumps to 125,the safety valve trips,the pressure drops to 90, the compressor then kicks back on. adjusting the pressure gauge has no affect.

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  • Master 1,167 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 27, 2009
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Hi mate to adjust the pressure you need to take the cover off the pressure switch by unscrewing a little screw in the middle then it will pull off then inside you will find a screw /a bolt with sighns next to it saying + and - unscrew to decrease pressure screw in to increase pressure the pressure guage just tells you how much air is in the tank and when the compressor turns off it will bleed the air off in the system just incase you didnt know

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3answers

Sears air compressor 919.167340 Need advice re: why tank pressure guage doesn't work when it's compressing air.

maybe you are reading the gauge wrong
the tank gauge and the regulator gauge will read the same but the gauge that reads when you adjust the regulator is the out line pressure to be n maintained during tool use
tip

Nusance tripping of oil pressure control on commercial refrigeration

Oil pressure trips on semi-hermetic compressors aren't a problem you'll run into every day,however when you do they can be a real pain in the neck to diagnose and repair. Here are a few things to check for when troubleshooting an oil safety trip.<br />The obvious place to start is to check that there's oil in the compressor. Check the level in the sight glass. If the oil level seems low but the compressor stays running, watch to see if the level increases after 10 or 15 minutes of run time:<br /><br />* If the level doesn't increase, add enough oil to maintain about a half a sight glass.<br /><br />* If the level increases, then the oil was logged out in the system and is now returning. A flooding expansion valve can cause this problem.<br />Monitor the superheat at the compressor, and watch for foaming oil in the sight glass.<br /> Freezers without a pressure limiting expansion valve can have this problem when coming out of defrost. Use a crankcase pressure regulating valve.<br /><br />A bad three-phase contactor can cause oil safety trips. The oil safety is wired in series with the compressor contactor, so if the compressor intermittently single-phases due to a voltage drop across a burnt contact, it won't start. In these cases, it's common for the compressor windings to overheat, and for the internal overloads to open.<br /><br /> The oil safety can still be energized and time out. Without a pressure differential, this will trip the oil safety after 90 to 120 seconds. The contactor will open, and the compressor will cool down. Then you show up, reset it, and it runs. Because you find no oil pressure problems, you leave only to return in a couple days to the same problem.<br /><br />Oil pumps are protected by a filtering screen located in the oil sump of the compressor. If the screen become plugged with debris picked up from the system by the returning oil (anything small in the system, such as solder scale, dirt, copper burrs, etc. will eventually end up in the compressor) it can give you the illusion that the oil pump may be failing. <br /><br />Before you change the oil pump, check and clean the screen.<br /><br />Use a good suction line drier as well as a liquid line drier<br />
on Feb 16, 2011 • Refrigerators
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Air Compressor trips breaker under load. If I remove the belt the motor runs fine, spins freely as does the compressor pump. With the tank pressure empty, the compressor starts and runs fine. When it...

Most people recommend replacing the motor capacitor in this situation, since a faulty cap will reduce the starting torque. But in my case the check valve was the culprit - there was too much back pressure on the head.
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Why does my compressor trip the breaker after filling with air

1 of 2 things #1 the pressure releive valve that lets the pressure of the pump when it kicks off is stuck closed so what is happening is when the compressor kicks back on its under a load and trips braker. #2 your braker is to small for the compressor.
3helpful
2answers

I have a vt631401aj campbell hausfeld compressor. when it builds pressure to 135 psi, the compressor shuts down and immediatly starts dumping air until it goes down to 90 psi. It then stops dumping the...

John: I had a similar problem with a brand new CH-made compressor. The problem was not with the unloader valve, but with the check valve located where the air from the pump enters the tank. The check valve was not seating correctly due to brass filings from manufacture. The defective check valve was allowing air to escape back the wrong way from the tank to the pressure switch and through the unloader valve. This backflow from the tank would start to happen when the pump stopped after reaching high pressure. The back flow would continue until the pump restarted at the low pressure point. This cycling would continue as you described. Once I cleaned the check valve, everything (including the unloader valve) started working correctly. I hope this helps. And remember, don't work on these when they are under pressure and always wear safety glasses.
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2answers

The compressor runs fine and shuts off when the pressure builds up to the appropriate level. When I use air, it tries to kick on to build pressure up again, but it's not able to get started and...

Check the circuit feeding power to the compressor. These conductors may be too small. Conductors have a degree of resistance. Resistance consumes power. The power conductors consume is dissipated as heat and present a voltage drop to the equipment being served. Length and size of the conductors determine power loss.
An electric motor momentarily needs up to six times the running power and this power loss is squared ( PxP) at start up.
The bottom line: Shorten the length of the conductors or increase the conductor size to avoid voltage drop.
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My water pump kicks on every 30 min or so even if there is no water used

When a pump goes on and off there is a water leak somewhere.
There should be a gauge. Let the pump build up pressure and watch the gauge.
The pressure will probably be dropping. This means that water is going somewhere. The leak could be anywhere that you use water, sprinklers, sinks, hose lines. If there is a valve above or near the pump, shut that valve and see if the pressure stops dropping. If the pressure stays up and the pump stops cycling on and off, the leak in in the pressure piping somewhere, you must locate it and repair it.
If the pressure continues to drop even with the discharge valve shut, the water must be leaking back into the well. There is a check valve somewhere on your line between the well and the pump. If this check valve is leaking, pressure will drop and the pump will come on to restore it.

If it is possible to shut off the discharge of the pump, shut that valve and watch the pressure gauge to see if it is dropping.
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Compressor initially starts up and fills tank to 120 psi with no problem. Compressor shuts off. When a tool is used the compressor tries to kick back on but hums and won't turn pump. If the "off"...

There is a small valve on the pressure switch that should relieve the pressure between the compressor and tank check valve. Make sure when pressure switch trips, it engages the relief valve and it bleeds the air out. Sometimes the valve itself comes loose and is not engaged by the lever in the pressure switch.
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Breaker relay tripping out

If the unloading valve trips , which i think is the safety valve that tells me the compressor is pumping up past its maximum allowed pressure. that black switch should be the overload switch. check the amps of the wires going to the motor while its running and then look at the name plate of the motor to see the maximum amount of amps that the motor is allowed to draw.
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My EC12 builds up pressure, but then releases all but about 10 psi.

The non-return valve is sticking and it's an easy fix. First, for safety, unplug the electric power to the unit and release any pressure in the tanks. Then unscrew the cap of the non-return valve (between the compressor and the tanks). Inside you should find a tapered rubber plug which is probably sticking in the valve housing. Sand down the diameter of the large end of the plug, being careful not to damage the flat face at the narrow end (which is the sealing surface). For sanding try 400 or 600 grade wet-or-dry paper and sand until the plug just moves freely in the housing. Reassemble and the compressor should work. Incidentally it's an oil-type unit, and quite durable. Make sure it has enough oil.
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