We have had the same washer now for about 6 or 7 years with no problems. Lately is has been backing up the drain pipe. My husband snaked the line and cleaned out the main cleanout valve in the basement, there was no blockage and other sinks/dishwasher drian into this line as well with no problems. Any suggestions???????
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Re: water backing up in the drain pipe
Many washers have a lint trap just before the pump
the traps get full of socks, lint, or other small items
those that dont have traps, should.
examine the hose between pump and trap and drum, for trapped small items
to see the hose and trap
kenmore whirlpool & heaps of others Unplug washer
turn off taps
remove trims from edge of control panel
remove screws from under bottom edge of trims
raise slide forward and flip control panel over, hinged at top, do not dislodge air hose to level control
remove brass body clips under control panel, not position for reinstall
lift body 1/2inch (locator studs at bottom) and remove, top front and both sides come away as one piece
motor pump gearbox tub suspension is now exposed reassemble in reverse order
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how far down is the drain hose pushed in to the drain pipe?should only be like 3 to 4 inches,also the drain hose should be up higher than the water level in the tub.if you can pull out the drain hose try this,fill up the washer on small,after it fills,pull the hose out of the pipe and then stick the hose a few inches into the drain pipe and then turn the timer to the spin cycle and let it drain,after it stops,pull the drain hose out of the pipe,if no water enters back into washer you know that it has something to do with the way the drain hose is in the pipe or another problem.if you're saying that the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe in the wall you will have to get in there and separate it,pull out the hose and check it,it sounds like this is where the problem is,you had the pump changed and i don't know why the guy would do this if the washer was draining so you know that's not the problem and if they changed the water valve on the washer you know water isn't leaking into the washer from the valve so i would check the drain hose.hope this helps
The wall box outlet probably is about 1-1/2 in. in diameter. If it was snaked clear then there may be blockage in the main sewer line. In my case, there is a 90 degree bend that gets blocked periodically and causes the washing machine discharge to back up
The drain hose on a washing machine
connects the drain pump to a stand pipe, a U-pipe under the sink, or
another place for draining dirty water into the sewer. If your washer
won't drain properly, the problem is sometimes an object blocking the
drain hose, like a pair of underpants, a child's sock, or pieces of
something that broke up in the washer.
Unplug the washer and put the plug on top of the machine to keep it out of any spilled water.
any wet clothes out of the washer and bail the water out of the drum
with the bucket. The washer may be too heavy to move if it's full of
water and wet clothing.
Pull the washer out from the wall enough for you to get behind it.
the plate from the back of the washer by taking out all the screws.
Different brands and models of washers vary in how many screws hold on
the back plate, and not all models require removing the plate to get to
the pump where the hose is attached.
Locate the drain hose. Of the three hoses
coming out of the back of the washer, the drain hose is the largest in
diameter and is attached to a drain pipe instead of a faucet.
Check the drain hose for kinks and bends. These are often the cause of a blocked or slow-running drain hose.
the drain hose from the washer by detaching it from the drain pump. You
will need a screwdriver or a slide-lock wrench to open the clasp that
holds the hose to the pump, depending on what type of clasp it is.
Keep the bucket nearby to catch any water that comes out of the drain pump when you remove the hose.
Remove the other end of the house from the pipe it drains into.
the clothes hanger open so you can use it to poke inside the hose. Push
or pull out the material that's causing the blockage.
Replace the hose and run the washer to check if it's clear.
If this is a HE front load washer. MAke sure your drain hose is not shuved too far down the drain pipe. Water will syphen back into the washer and clothes will be wet. Drain hose should be in drain pipe 8 inches. See you ownwers manual for drain hose recomemdations. Reason why it says drasining problem is because maybe water is sysphening back into washer and pump is taking long to drain and operating too long and washer senses it. So check your drain hose and make sure its not to far down the drain pipe..re adjust if it is and wash your clothes and see if problem persists...hope this helps
the solution to the problem was....a few days before we noticed the washer was not filling all the way, the plumber had come over to clear our pipe, because it was not draining. He had tightened the clamp we were using to keep the pipe in place too tightly, it was air tight and it was creating a vacuum and siphoning the water out when it got to a certain level. We took the clamp off since there was no longer a need for it and the washer fills up and drains as it should.
2 ins is rather small and there may also be a partial blockage somewhere in the system you are not aware off.
a naughty cure is to restrict the drain hose of the machine so water comes out a bit slower
The problem is most likely your drain. If there is no air break at the drain,( a gap where the hose goes into the pipe so air can enter) Your water will siphon out of the machine. Also make sure your drain pipe is higher than the tub of your washer and you only want about 6 inches of the drain hose sticking into the pipe. If you have water coming back out of the pipe when the machine drains, you will need a plumber to clean the pipes or replumb the drain. New washers pump out faster than older ones did and they need a good drain to handle the flow.
The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.
#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.
#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.
#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.
#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge. Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.
#5 Some plumbing installations installed without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming back into the house. It also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up which will cause the drain line to slowly back up.