Here are some initial steps to help you diagnose and fix washer problems.
Step 1:
Make sure the washer is receiving power. Check the cord, the plug, and
the outlet. If a wall switch controls the outlet, make sure the switch
is working. Look for blown fuses or tripped
circuit breakers
at the main entrance panel. If the unit is receiving power and still
won't run, press the reset button on the control panel (if the washer
has one).
Step 2:
Make sure the control knob is properly set to the ON position and the
door is tightly closed. Check the latch to make sure it's free of lint
and soap buildup.
Step 3:
Make sure that both water faucets are turned on and that the drain and
soap-saver return hoses are properly extended, without kinks. If the
washer has a water-saver button, make sure the button is depressed;
water may not circulate through the filter nozzle if the basket is not
full and the button is not depressed.
Step 4:
To make sure the water is the proper temperature, check the temperature
selector switches on the control panel to make sure they're properly
set. Also check the water heater temperature control. It should be set
no lower than 120 degrees F.
Servicing the Timer
Most
washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls
most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and
emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this
reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional
service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when
you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new
timer yourself.
Step 1:
Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and
the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or
access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully
examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the
washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into
position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use
long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull
a wire by hand.
Step 2:
To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power
leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM
should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple
switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in
turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more
readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3:
To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new
timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many
wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old
one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting
each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections
are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before
removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the
connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into
place.
In the next section, we will examine two of the most
crucial elements of a washing machine -- the water inlet valves and the
agitator.
Servicing the Tub and Agitator
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Replace a damaged agitator
with a new one of the same type.
Unscrew the cap on top of the
agitator and pull straight up;
the agitator should lift off.The
washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems.
However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of
noise, vibrate, or stop completely.
If laundry is torn during
the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may
be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If
this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the
roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably
much wiser to replace the entire washer.
The agitator -- the
finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the
fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem
temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly
filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the
agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one
of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator.
With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off.
If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift
off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it.
Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.
Damage
to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator
cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have
a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the
snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn,
replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash
guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the
water pump housing. Look around until you see it.
If the machine
doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between
the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads
that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to
be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the
nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.
Sudden tub stops
can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor
tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of
the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the
basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.
Expert
