Midrange and tweeter driver not hit the the high range.

Monsoon System Pinouts

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Pin Wire Color Function
E1 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Output (+)
E2 TAN Left Front Speaker Output (+)
E3 GRY Left Front Speaker Output (-)
E4 LT BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (-)
E5 DK BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (+)
E6 BRN Left Rear Speaker Output (+)
E7 YEL Left Rear Speaker Output (-)
E8 BLK Ground
E9 BLK Ground
E10 DK GRN Antenna Relay Coil Supply Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E13 BLK Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
E14 YEL Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
E15 DK BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
E16 LT BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F1 DK GRN Right Front Speaker Output (-)
F2 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (+)
F3 PPL Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (-)
F4 PPL Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F5 RED Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F6 DK GRN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F7 ORN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
F8 PPL Gain Control Signal
F9 -- Not Used
F10 YEL Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F11 WHT Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F12 -- Not Used
F13 LT BLU/BLK Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (-)
F14 DK GRN Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (+)
F15 DK BLU/WHT Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (+)
F16 LT GRN/BLK Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (-)

or it is here 3rd one down
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=76

well it sounds like you know what the problem is already, the first thing you need to determine is if the fuze is blown, jbl's are expensive speakers and usually there is an internal and sometime an external fuze, sometimes the midrange and tweeters are fuzed sepeataly. I'm ont familiar with that particular model, but if it not a fuze then most likely you have overloaded the high end speakers and they may have blown out, the high freqency drivers and not cheap and if they are new and under warranty you might have a chance to get new tweeters/horns free but if it is your fault e.g. too much power going in, then you will have to pay for them. You can get replacemdent JBL or other good speakers at www.martinsoundproducts.com they are out of Cleveland Ohio and you can call them when you get their number off the website..

Hi,

These speakers are 3-way there are 2 woofers and 1 tweeter per speaker. Here are the technical specifications of each speaker:

Two 6.5-inch Kevlar woofers and 1-inch silk-dome tweeter per speaker
86 dB sensitivity
20 to 150 watts recommended power (per channel)
6 ohms impedance
30 to 20,000 Hz frequency response

Please rate my answer if this helps.

Many thanks,

Chris

It's a midrange component speaker. Possibly your midrange speaker is blown. Check your wiring.

You hear the tweeters i am assuming because the vehicle has tweeter component speakers that are separate from the midrange and low components.

ok as for the deck just get the wiring harness for your car so you dont have to cut the old one out and that would eliminate the need for a wireing diagram with that done you should be able to hook all speakers you want to the stock spot so for a tweeter just hook it up with the door speaker there arnt any extra cords....you will only need a amp for a subwoofer unless you choose to put your mids and highs on one and if you didnt want to change your deck hook up the tweeters would be the same way hope this helped

the conductor xxx\blk is the minus or black( from speaker) the outher is positive\red pin from speaker) the woofer is bigest speaker inside is connected on the crossover at low output, tweeter at high output, if you connect wrong you can burn speakers and crossover, you can test with very low volume on amplifier.

1st connect low to woofer, it only her low freq below 500Hz like drums and bass, if connect on med out the speaker is working as handpocket old radio audio. if connect on high the speaker is like no audio out. (the woofer take about 60-75% of amp power).

2nd connect the midrange at mid output you can listen to human voice cristal clear. if connect on high output you listem like esteric female shouting.

And connect the tweeter at the empty output

Take particular attention on polarity terminals, if you exchange the polarity you have a moofle sound traped inside of speaker, and some structered box noise who may open the box panels in future.

sounds like some thing is at the wrong ohms , check ohms with a meter ,find out amps minium ohms it can safely work at as well .

its not a subwoofer it is a midrange speaker. all you do is connect your outputs from the radio to the crossover then connect both the tweeter and midrange to the outputs on the crossover. it is called a component set.

If you have a Ohm Meter, check the resistance to the speakers. If it is very high, the speakers are burned, (or the crossover is (just capacitors, and resisters...cheap)). If it is close to 4 ohms check the wiring and connectors..to and at the speakers, most likly the receiver/amp is not blown.

Hi, it's probably that the 8" woofer and the midrange of the "amped" enclosure is open. One way to test is to remove just one wire from the inside of the enclosure to the woofer or midrange in question and with the use of a continuity tester (or a VOM), check for the resistance of the coil of each the 2 speakers. Both should read anywhere from 4-8 ohms, if there's no reading (VOM needle will not move) then the coil(s) are open. In the absence of a tester, a single AAA or AA battery would do (pls. some would argue that this is not a sound practice, however this should be enough for you to be able to determine the condition of the coil(s)). With the use of the battery and a single short length of electrical wire, apply power from the battery to the terminals of the speaker, if the cone moves, then chances are it is good, if they don't then you would have to replace it. Am not sure if available in your area, but there are some trained people who can rewind the coil should a replacement speaker be not readily available. Hope this be of help. Please let us know how things turn up. Regards.