Question about LG DLG2532 Gas Dryer

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No heat Circuit check shows 110v power at WH3 hot (term2) but not at YL2 Neutral (term1) to power the igniter. Igniter tests good. Is there something else on the Control board that will inhibit the YL2 from completing the circuit? I contacted LG and they have no service manuals available. Dryer tumbles but never heats up

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Check the high limit switch located on the combustion chamber tube.  There is a button that you can reset and that should take care of the problem.

Posted on Apr 28, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The grill on my Stoves 059050517 cooker will not stay on. It gets warm but not hot and the ignition comes in every few seconds. This problem does not always happen and appears to occur randomly.


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!





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May 20, 2015 | Stoves Ovens

1 Answer

The top oven is not heating. I think that I need a baking element. It looks loke the model # is 966 40LX (or something close to that). When I search this model #, I come up empty. It could be that this...


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

Mar 19, 2015 | Ovens

1 Answer

I have gas GE Dryer Model DPSR483GA2WW that will not heat. Replaced selnoides and igniter. No difference. Can't see if igniter is glowing because view is from bottom of machine. Checked all thermo


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.
Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.
Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.
Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Dec 21, 2014 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Why is my Kenmore 500 series gas dryer won't heat up, no flame.


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Aug 21, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My gas dryer burner does not heat. The igniter does not glow even to permit the gas valve to turn on. Everything else works and checks out being good, such as the thermostats, igniter, flame sensor. ...


You could check the igniter by testing to see if 120 volts is at the wiring the igniter plugs into, if 120 vac at that plug the igniter is bad Also need to check THERMAL FUSE,in addation to thermostat,on electric dryers if thermal fuse is out it cuts circuit to motor, on many brand dryers if thermal fuse bad on GAS dryer it cuts circuit to igniter

Aug 12, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

LDG9609ABE motor turns drum but hot surface igniter does not activate. so NO FLAME. Have connected 110v directly to igniter for test and it does glow. What prevents ignter responding to normal start?


Hello,

i will give your a list of all parts that could make the ignitor on come on excluding the ignitor since it seems good

flame sensor ,the black part on burner tube,Unplug before checking since if good WILL shock you when removing wires to check it, remove wires and check for continunty and replace if no cont.

high limit t-stat (another shock hazard when live) it also on burner tube ,if good will have continunity

cycling t-stat(s) in blower housing check and replace if no continunity

thermal fuse, the white eyeball shaped part also in blower housing cont. if good

timer, refer to wiring diagram and set to a regular cycle and check for cont.. per the two terminal indicated as being closed as shown when a solid black line on chart in diagram

motor (i know it sound odd since it runs) has a centrifical switch that completes neutral circuit to igntor when running,this is a built in safety feature to ensure dryer will only heat when running since extreme fire hazard if can heat when off

heat selector switch ,will be a chart on wiring diagram to indicate which circuit that is common to all heat settings (high, med,low) and circuits exclusive to each heat setting

to check all above the wires to that part/timer circuit must be removed so there is no ghost circuit,use a multimeter set to continunity/ohms setting, all above should have zero ohms if good and OL (open line) reading depending on you meter it may show no reading which is OL

UNPLUG BEFORE CHECKING ALL ABOVE SINCE ANY AND ALL ABOVE WILL SHOCK YOU IF LIVE

GOOD LUCK AND GODSPEED

Jul 28, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

My Kenmore gas dryer 417.90042990 will not heat. Otherwise it works fine. How can I fix it?


Here is the troubleshooting order. The first thing to check is the igniter if glowing red hot when the dryer is started and runs. If it turns red hot, the problem is with the radiant sensor or the gas valve solenoid coils. The radiant sensor must align perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves, one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the igniter turns red hot and the radiant sensor is aligned with it and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. In this case, both solenoids must be replaced. The resistance of the 2-prong coils is around 1200 ohms while the 3-pronged one is around 1320 ohms between the outer prongs.

The igniter is good if it reads 100 ohms. The safety thermostat on the burner cone is blown open if the igniter does not glow red hot. Check the continuity of the safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat on the bower housing. Replace both the
safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat if the safety thermostat is found open.

Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Jul 09, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

How to bridge a 4ch power acoustik amp to 2ch


I had the Power acoustik saphire 4ch and had to do the same thing. Use the Positive from Term1 (spkr1) and Negative from Term2(spkr2). Good Luck.

Nov 26, 2009 | Power Acoustik GOTHIC OV4-800 Car Audio...

1 Answer

Maytag Gas Dryer SDG515DAWW - heating stopped


The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle) thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is energized the flame sensor a%20flame%20sensor%202.bmp flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the igniter
a%20igniter.jpg Igniter and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot igniter and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas valve assembly.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Jan 03, 2009 | Dryers

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