Be sure the evaporator fan is working if not it is stuck up because this seldoms. Open evaporator coil and check the defrost heater and defrost termination switch for resistance and continuity. If both are good then the defrost timer is bad. Replace.
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remove the rear panel in the freezer,and if evaporator coils a solid block of ice,take a hand held hair dryer and melt the ice,then remove the heater located under the coil and test it for continuity,if open replace it with g.e.# wr51x10055 heater element
It sounds like you have a defrost system problem. most commonly its your defrost heater on most GE ref. It can be located by removing the back panel of the freezer. If you remove the heater it can be tested for continuity at any parts distributor. I would also look for the quarter sized thermostat mounted at the top of the coils to see if it looks "popped" at the top. If it is then replace the thermostat. Hope this helps MJ
if one of the panels in the fridge has frost on it, the evaporator coils may be iced up. this restricts the cold air flow. to defrost: empty the fridge and freezer, turn it off, remove the panel in the freezer that has the frost, use a hairdryer and defrost the ice buildup, sop up excess water, dry it up, replace the panel, turn it on (while it's empty), set the temp halfway, and close the doors. when the compressor turns off, fill the fridge. if the panels are frostless and the coils are warm, you may be out of refrigerant from a freon leak somewhere. it might be cheaper to replace the fridge.
Something has gone bad in the defrost circuit.(Heating element was notorious for this) but could be a timer or thermostat. Frost buildup will cause inefficient cooling as will dirty condenser coils. Eric
if u have frost build up in the freezer it will affect the temperature and it needs to defrost problems could be defrost timer. thermostat. terminator. heater s. unit problems (unlikely) if even frost coating.
The automatic defrost system is not working. All frost-free machines have a heater in the freezer to melt the frost away on a timed schedule. Every day or two the defrost cycle is initiated by the defrost timer. A heater melts the frost, then the cooling system is turned back on.
I had a similar problem. The frost in the back is an indication that your coils are frozen. This could be from food packages falling out of the freezer drawers in the back and blocking the air circulation vents or maybe the freezer door was not closed completely and letting moist/humid air in and freezing the coils. For me it was the first problem listed.I had to completely empty the freezer and Frig. and take the back panel off in the freezer. There you will see the coils and lots of ice! 1. Remove all items from the frig. and freezer and unplug frig. 2. Pull all the freezer drawers out. 3. On my GE side by side I took the light cover off and removed the bulb. There you will see two panel screws. Remove the screws. 4. Now pull out the mouldings on each side and you should be able to remove the panel. 5. Take a hair drier and completely defrost all the ice from the coils. Be sure to keep plenty of towels handy for all the water mess. Remember to keep an eye on the drain tray in the back of the frig. and use a sponge to collect the water that will build up. Hope this helps!..... Woody
You will have to make some line and low voltage tests at the motherboard to diagnose this further. Start by removing axcess panel to motherboard on back of refrig. Locate 3 PIN blu connector on bottom of board. Wires are labeled Comp, Def, Line. Jump Line to Def At connector. Look at heater at bottom of evap coil for glowing red heat. If no heat heater is bad, if it does heat time to go to the next step!