The problem started when I had to disconnect the car battery to remove the alternator for bearing replacement. Now when the radio is on the Power Amp receives the P Ant signal and turns on, which is fine. But when I switch to CD or Aux, this signal goes away and the Amp switches off.
I've tried al kinds of settings, how can I fix it again?
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Re: Power Amp not working When A CD is playing
You have it wired wrong. The Power Antenna wire is for antenna only. When you go to something other than Radio, the antanna wire signal to turn retract the antennaor turn off your amp. you need to use the Blue wire coming out of your CD player. The intended function of the Blue is remote turn on when every the radio is turned on. This will keep you amp on as long as your Radio is turned on. Change the wires behind the radio from the Power antenna to Blue Remote wire.
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Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
2. Remove the air breather/cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing
3. Remove the strain of the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt
4. Remove the right front wheel
5. Remove the belt cover & Disconnect the battery Cable and the red alternator power wire.
6. Remove the two Alternator Bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket
7. Remove the three bolts that hold the header pipe up to help give room to remove the alternator
8. Remove the converter bolt from the converter bracket and mover the converter over to aid in the alternator removal
9. Refit in reverse
Working from Top down:
disconnect battery 2) not necessary to remove airfilter box but does give more breathing room for belt removal/instal 3) un-tension serpentine belt with a 1/2" drive long extension in the square of the tensioner & pull towards the front of the car to release the serpentine belt 4) lock tensioner with about a 4mm pin(Allen key will do) by pulling forward with that 1/2"drive extension & pinning the tensioner with that hole 5) remove tensioner with 8mm Allen key or drive(not necessary to remove R side engine mount & raise engine) and be careful to not knock and cause to release the tensioner-they hurt when they snap! 6) remove upper alternator bolt(8mm Allen key/drive).
Working from Bottom of the engine bay:
disconnect cables at alternator(13 & 8 mm nuts) 8) remove R wheel/inner fender skirt that covers the harmonic balancer(10 & 8 mm heads)/ tie back flex hose to strut 9) remove lower alternator bolt(8mm alley key/drive) 10) wedge/rotate out alternator of its mounts 11) disconnect exhaust pipe rubber hangers at catalytic converter and mid section of exhaust 12) you can bend(and later re-bend into position the hanger studs) (OR undo front header studs/nuts to free up the front part of the exhaust) to push over the exhaust and pull out the alternator(pulley nose down)--be careful when getting the alternator out as the downstream O2 sensor is right there(a good precaution would be to remove it)......reverse procedures to install.
Go back to the alternator for the problem as it is connected directly to the battery via the cable. Alternators charge rate is 14.5 to 15.5 volts and if it is only 13.8 volts then that is battery voltage for a good battery and this means that the alternator is not charging which indicates a diode has failed and discharging the battery
It may be a idler pulley bearing starting to freeze up remove the belt and turn all pulleys,power steering pump, alternator, idler pulley , etc. to find out if there is excessive resistance offered if so this is the culprit, on the idler pulley check the raidial play in the bearing by trying to move it by holding it with your hand and try to wiggle it gently back and forth same with the other (pulleys) check for loosness or play in pulleys bearings if everything checks out ok the battery may be running low and upon startup the alternator is under alot of strain to compensate for the recent drain on the battery while it is stressed to turn the starter to start car, your car may be drawing power from the battery as the car sits causing this condition disconect the pos. terminal of the battery and run a positive voltmeter wire to battery terminal then run negative volt meter wire to the now removed positive battery terminal cable set the voltmeter to dc there should not be 12 volts present if so there is and open circuit present drawing down the battery as the car sits while off.
it is a bad idea to disconnect the battery of a running car. If the alternator is working it can destroy virtually any electric component that is on. Alot of shops and some auto parts stores offer free charging/starting system tests.(they sell more baterries and alternators)
Your right on. Its most likely the altenator. Chances are the belt is sliping because the pully bearing is bad. Of course this all means that you are running off the battery and it is getting low. You will get stuck when you can least afford to. You must remove the altenator and replace. Oh one last thing it could very well be your water pump pully bearing. So remove fan belt and spin with your hand, if you feel resistance thats it, so remove fan belt and check before you start replacing components. Good luck