Samsung refrigerator 21MHSS- motor running but freezer not freezing- no ice, ref compartment not cold. All switches on high

There are alot of things that can cause no cooling...
a stuck tstat, will cause it to freeze up(electronic control)
a broken defrost timer will cause ice build up from no defrosting
out, or low on freon charge
inefficient compressor
door gaskets leaking
light switch not cutting off the light inside the cooling or freezing compartment
a bad fan motor(door) switch

I dont know how your unit works, but most only have one evaporator in entire unit..and its in the freezer compartment, and the cooling side gets it (coldnest) from the freezer compartment..with a door flap that alows cold air from the freezer to enter the cooler side.
Hope this helps..

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The cold control needs replacing. Thats the knob with the numbers that turn the Ref OFF and ON.
What I do is call my local Appliance Parts Store with my model no. They are extremely helpful .
Get freezer and ref thermometer. Ref is probably too cold.
Freezer should be 0 to 10 degrees. Ref 33 to 35
If you need more help, Go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hi,
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME If this was helpful

The defrost thermostat is not working and the evaporator compartment is blocked with ice. That will stop cold air from entering into the fresh food compartment.
Move your food to another refrigerator, then unplug and open the Samsung refrigerator for 24 hours and allow the ice to melt.
Then remove the freezer panel inside and locate and replace the little plastic tube like part that is zip tied to the expansion tubing. It should have 2 brown wires coming out of the plastic sealed tube/ thermostat part. Write down your model number and go to Samsung's website or searspartsdirect and buy a new thermostat.
I believe the operating range for said thermostat is 20 C to -5 C. you'll most probably have to cut the wires and splice in the new thermostat. You can also use a generic thermostat with the same or nearly the same ratings of 20/-5 C temp.
All the thermostatic switch does is control the defrost heating element that melts the ice off the evaporator every 10 to 12 hour cycle via the defrost timers switch located at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. You can turn the clock counter clock wise until the first loud click to force the machine into defrost as well. Although if the defrost heating element, thermistor, THERMOSTAT, or defrost timer switch has malfunctioned there will not be a defrost cycle and ice will form inside the ducting and evaporator compartment and block the cold air circulation and the fresh food compartment will not cool and the freezer section will barely freeze water.

if the freezer is getting cold the problem is due to the cold air from the freezer not getting into the refrigerator. There are several things that can cause this problem. The coils in the freezer icing up and not defrosting properly is one of the things that can cause the refrigerator not to get cold enough. Another problem is the fan that blows the cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator, not working. When the compressor is running open the refrigerator's door and push the switch that makes the light go out. You should hear the fan blowing the cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator, when this switch is pushed in. If the fan is working then you will need to find what is blocking the air flow. Iced up coils are a common problem. The icing problem can be due to a defective defrost timer or something defective in the defrost circuit. Click here for more information. Check for these problems and let me know what you have found.
REFRIGERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING
#1 Refrigerator side getting warm Freezer still cold
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost heater defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost thermostat defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Airflow blocked from freezer compartment.
Freezer control turned to "coldest" setting blocking air flow to refrigerator side. On most refrigerator/freezers, the freezer control closes a baffle when turned to coldest setting, and this blocks off the air flow to the fresh food compartment.
Fan blade broken.
Defective door switch on older models.
Light staying on with door closed.
2 Refrigerator & freezer compartments both are getting warm
Make sure refrigerator is plugged in and has power.
Condenser fan motor on bottom under refrigerator not running.
Condenser coil clogged.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost heater. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost thermostat. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Cold control defective.
Compressor overload defective.
Compressor relay defective.
Light staying on with door closed.
Compressor defective.
Low on refrigerant. #3 Freezer compartment getting hot.
Defrost timer stuck in defrost cycle.(replace)
Defrost thermostat stuck.(replace)
Ice maker stuck in harvest cycle
Light staying on with door closed. 4 Ice maker not making ice
Defective inlet water valve.
Freezer temperature not cold enough. (see problem # 2 & 3 above)
Defective thermostat in ice maker.
Defective drive motor.
Water inlet tube clogged with ice.
Defective module in newer style icemaker. 5 Refrigerator sweating around door edges
Door gaskets leaking air.
Defective case heaters.
Energy saver switch not set to reduce exterior moisture
also if require more help click the link http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html please do rate the solution .thanks in advance.thank you for using fixya.

Look for ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer.
If ice is there you have a defrost parts issue.
If not, check the compressor to make sure it is running.

does your fan blow? freezers have a fan that pushes cold air to the fridge side if fan is bad freezer will run extremely cold and fridge won't cool down and since frige won't cool down thermostat in fridge doesn't tell compressor to stop

First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
So, how can the Ref side be cold and the freezer side not freezing?

1. Coolant leak. There is enough coolant to keep the Ref side cool but not enough to freeze on the freezer side.

2. Defrost system failure. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice and it's just a matter of time when the Ref side won't cool either. The back wall in the freezer will be covered with ice/frost

defrost problem. advance defrost timer to defrost (till it shuts off) . remove freezer panel, check voltage and amps to heater,if heater is hot, replace timer, if heater is cold and no voltage, replace defrost limit switch. defrost all ice, carefully! with hair dryer, no poking with screwdriver.

Take the back out of the freezer and check and see if the refrigerator is in defrost while it is cooling if it is replace the timmer, then check and see if the fan on the underside is working if not replace the motor this will cause the problem also.
If all that is ok feel the small line under the refrigerator ( high side) and see if it is hot while it is running if not check the freon in the refrigerator.