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Model 95 Icemaker no ice

When the power switch is turned on, the compressor starts and cools the system as expected. The water solonoid never picks and the control motor never starts. I cannot figure out how the small control motor starts from the circut. I checked its resistance and it has about 600 ohms. I think the control motor has to start the sequence but I don't see the path to start it with the two micro switches in their start positions on the cam.
I did clean the sensing bulb in the mold but I have to cut the wires to check its resistance.
What starts the cycle when you power the unit up?

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To continue.. When you turn on the icemaker, the unit has to get cold and turn off the compressor. That starts the dump cycle and at the last part of the cycle it will fill the mold with water. The next time the compressor turns off the dump cycle will dump ice. It actually goes through 2 cycles before you get ice. Hope this helps. MDB

Posted on Apr 26, 2008

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The cycle starts when you turn the icemaker on. It starts the dump cycle when the compressor turns off. The mold heater turns on and the cycle motor stalls until the ice cubes release and lets the moror complete its cycle. Then the compressor starts to repeat the cycle. If the mold heater is bad (it should read about 80-85 ohms) it will not dump all the ice and the mold will overflow on the next fill part of the cycle. If the over temperature switch is bad (checks open) It will not let the mold heaters work. The over temperature switch should NEVER open. If it IS open the mold heaters will not heat. MDB

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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3 Answers

My Goodman heat pump doesn't blow air through the vents into the house, but the fan comes on when the thermostat is turn on for the air conditioning


Check first that
  • the air conditioning equipment is turned on,
  • the thermostat is calling for cooling, and that
  • the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.
Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:
  1. Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls. She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
  2. Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool" not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.

    If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.

    You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.

    If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead
    to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICS but I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.

  3. Check that electricity is on for the equipment. Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:

    Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a
    BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.

    There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.

    Some hard-to-find electrical switches on an air conditioner or heat pump could be keeping your air conditioner from starting, such as
    a FLOAT SWITCH on Condensate Tray that could
    be
    causing CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT - condensate spilling into an overflow pan that uses a sensor switch can be enough to shut down your air conditioner.
    or
    a blower MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH could be keeping a fan motor from starting.

    A bad or failed starter capacitor could also be leaving your system shut down, failing to start a blower, fan, or compressor motor.
    See CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS

    Watch out: See A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES to be sure you have found and checked everymanual or automatic electrical switch on the system.
  4. Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.
    See VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS

Aug 22, 2017 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have no cold air in my refrigerator or Freezer. It defrosted everything.


Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Jun 28, 2017 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

2002 4 ton Bryant air conditioner shuts off, fan still runs but not cooling is problem in the controls in the attic or in the AC unit or both?


With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.

If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.

If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,

Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.

Hope this helps.

thermostat-heat-cool-fan-on-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-2.jpg

basic-thermostat-wiring-diagram-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-5.jpg

Jun 28, 2017 | Bryant Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

If compressor comes on & cuts off soon after, is it bad or what do i check before replacing parts or fridge?


Does not sound good. The compressor gets turned on my the thermostat and off by same when temp is reached. If the compressor is drawing too much power the clixon will shut down the compressor and turn it back on when it cools. And it will keep turning on and off as it heats up and cools.
The only way a compressor can draw too much power is if the system is overcharged OR if some of the windings have shorted out , the resistance of the motor is less, and more current is flowing thru the remaining good windings.
If you have an ammeter handy you can check the current draw against what it is supposed to be. Expect the worst..

Aug 30, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My CH compressor does not power up. What are possible causes?


Reasons a compressor will not start:
* No power
* Switch in off position
* Defective pressure control switch.
* Defective motor start capacitor
* Binding
* Oil cooled low oil.
Bill, sells a book, but also has a good troubleshooting guide. See link below.
Troubleshooting Your Compressor

Jan 19, 2015 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Fuses panel described in English


Hope this helps your out. I know the diagram and locator is a bit blurry but hopefully it gets what you need.
Drivers kick panel:
Front wiper 20A - Front wiper system Cigar 15A- Cigarette lighter Audio 10A- Audio, remote control mirror Air Bag 10A -Air bag diagnostics Stop lights- 15A -Rear brake light, high mounted stop light ECU B+ 10A - Shift lock actuator, transaxle controle module, radio, engine control module Room 10A - Interior light, clock, ignition key reminder, rear cargo area light switch ABS 10A- Anti lock brake system control unit ECU IG1 10A - Transaxle control module, shift lock actuator, ABS control unit, DRL unit Meter 10A - Instrument panel, back-up switch, electronics time control module, inhibit switch Turn signal 10A- Hazard switch ,front and rear turn lights, turn indicator IGN1 20A - Ignition switch ABS 30A- ABS pump motor TNS 30A- Tail light, license plate light COOL/FAN 30A- Cooling fan Cond/Fan 20A- A/C condenser fan Starter 15A- Start signal , Fuel pump Blower 25A- Blower Motor SR/ACC 10A - Ignition switch Hazard 15A - Hazard and turn signal light D/Lock 25A- Door locks ABS 30A - Anti lock brake system control P/W RH 20A- Power window motor right hand P/W LH 20A- Power window motor left hand IGN2 25A- Ignition Switch
Engine compartment :
Head 25A- headlights IG 2 30A- Ignition switch IG coil 15A -Ignition coil, condenser,generator IC regulator, diagnostic connector. O2 down 10A- Rear O2 sensor O2 up 10A- Front O2 sensor Fuel pump 10A -Fuel pump unit Injector 10A -Fuel injector ,camshaft positioning sensor, purge solenoid valve, EVAP, IAC actuator, Mass Airflow sensor, EGR stepper motor. fuel pump relay coil, vehicle speed sensor. A/Con 10A - A/C compressor controls, cooling fan BTN 30A- Brake light , high mounted stop light. Tail light LH 10A- License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Tail light RH 10A-License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Head low 15A- Headlight Head Hi 15A-Headlight Horn 15A- Horn jlmacman.png jlmacman_0.png

Inside kick panel jlmacman_1.png

Mar 07, 2011 | 1995 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

Motor not running Refrigerator not cooling


There are three possibilities why the compressor motor is not running. #1. The thermostat switch is not closing to turn the motor on. #2. The compressor motor is bad. #3 The defrost timer is engaged, preventing the compressor motor from starting.

Solution for #1: Locate the thermostat switch behind the console in the refrigerator. It is attached to the freezer temperature adjusting knob. If you jump the switch out, the compressor motor should start. If it does, replace this switch.

Solution for #2: get another refrigerator. It is not worth repairing.

Solution for #3: Turn the freezer temperature switch to the coldest setting. Locate the defrost timer in the console on the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment. Look for position labels like "cool control" and "compressor". Jump between these two wires. The compressor should start. If it does, replace this module.

Mar 06, 2010 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

OK. It looks like the compressor came on, it


Well, if the compressor is running consistently, but not cooling very well, then most likely either the refrigerant charge is low or the compressor itself is on it's last legs.

The fact that the compressor was clicking a few times and hesitant to start is more a sign of a bad compressor or bad starting capacitor on the motor; low refrigerant levels do not put any additional load on the unit, although many systems do have low pressure switches that will shut off the compressor if the refrigerant charge is low.

In summary, I would say 90% sure the compressor is bad, 8% the system is low on charge, and 2% some other part is the problem such as the motor start cap ore pressure switch.

the key is if you are 100% sure the compressor is running continously, and you are not getting cooling, then that's a compressor or low refrigerant issue.

Oct 21, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

3 Answers

The boiler lights up for about 8 seconds then goes to lock out


what type of boiler is this? and do have you switched the chill water over from the chiller to the boiler??

Nov 04, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Not working


Hate to tell you, but it may be a goner. Many units have a rectangular air filter that may be clogged, but I would still expect to see some moisture removal. Without exact model I'll have to be general,.... remove cover (front or back, depends on model) to see cooling coils. If the compressor is running, these coils should be wet or may have a light frost on them for a time. Not = refrigerant leak. (not economical to repair) If you see one small area of ice,... it's also a goner. If the compressor does not run you could have a bad compressor, a bad defrost control, or a bad control / humidistat. Other than the filter or possibly a fan motor, these unit are rarely economical to repair.

Aug 27, 2008 | Dehumidifiers

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