Before, it works normally. Now, when I switch on the fan, the blade wont move, but I can hear the parts are making sounds. Sometimes it moves but with a very very slow rotation. If I rotate the blade with my hand for a few times, it works. Is there a way to make it back to normal?
I fixed my fan this way. It's a Beauty 6" electric desk fan. I don't know how old it is or anything, but I'd guess it's at least 20 years old. It has a shaded pole motor. There were 2 clamps holding the squirrel cage rotor to the stator. The shaft of the rotor would spin in little holes in those clamps. I oiled the little holes on both sides of the shaft(while the shaft was in them) and spun it a little bit with my hands. Then, I plugged it into the wall without the fan blades on it. I figured it might add too much weight to it if I put the blades on, and the purposes was to plug it in and cause the rotor to spin so that the oil would further work its way into the little clamp thing and down the shaft. I let it spin like that for a minute or so, then I unplugged it, and put the fan blades back on. Plugged it back in, and it spun. Then, I put it all back together and plugged it in. It worked. The old 3 speed switch was broke in it. I cut the hot and neutral wires that were connected to a circuit board that was connected to the switch--which I assume this little circuit board was what controlled the 3 speeds. Took out the board, and spliced the wires together with the ones on the power cord. In other words--hot from fan to hot on power cord, neutral on fan to neutral on cord. I had a length of wire wire with a roller switch on it. So, then I cut the power cord in two, and spliced in the wire with the roller switch on it. Now, the fan operates at one speed with an on/off switch. Do you think that's acceptable? I don't mind the single speed thing. I was just wondering if the 'high' setting on it has the voltage to the motor rolled back just a bit so it's not maxing the motor out. I was just wondering if this would cause it to burn up over extended periods of use or not. As I said, the one speed is fine with me. I'm just wanting to know if I'm going to burn up the motor or not like this.
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Re: The power is in but the blade wont move
Your best bet is to UNPLUG the fan, remove the protected cage and the cover that protects the motor and take a can of compressed air and blow out any dust that you happen to see that has built up in the fan. Then look for a bushing that is towards the front of the shaft and the rear of the shaft and place a drop of 3 in 1 oil where the bushings are located. I would place a couple drops on the front and rear shaft, spin the shaft by hand, move it back and forth, then then put it back together again and try it.
This should extend the life of your fan as long as the motor isn't burnt up, and the fan hasn't been left on for a long period of time when the blades where not moving. Hope this helps.
Keep in mind.. a little maintenance goes a long way.
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Its very possible the fan clutch has locked up and is now a direct connection from the fan to the water pump. Depending on if it is controlled by temp or speed, it may not run at full speed when cold or at idle. When the engine is cold and not running, a normal fan clutch would let you turn the fan blade without turning the pulley.
Hi,If your deskfan has a timer, the problem would be the timer switch that must be replace, because it is the one the supplies power to you fan.if it has no timer, the problem would be the bushing and the lubricant. Open up the fan cage cover and try to move the fan blade, if the fan blade does not move freely that means it has either the bushing needs replacement or oil lubricant is needed in the bushing.Drop some oil in the middle of the shaft of the fan to help it run again. Did you hear if the fan make some noise when you last use it? Hope that helps you out. Thanks for using FixYa!
Problem 1. Fan will not start. Probable Cause 1. Fuse or circuit breaker blown. 2. Loose power line connections to the fan, or loose wire connections in the switch housing. 3. Reversing switch in neutral position.
Suggested Remedy 1. Check main and branch circuit fuses or circuit breakers. 2. Check line wire connections to fan and switch wire connections in the switch housing. 3. Make sure reversing switch position is all the way to one side.
WARNING: Make sure main power is turned off.
Problem 2. Fan sounds noisy. Probable Cause 1. Blades not attached to fan. 2. Loose screws in motor housing. 3. Screws securing fan blade flanges to motor hub are loose. 4. Switch housing binding against the blade hub. 5. Wire connectors inside switch housing rattling. 6. Screws holding blades to flanges are loose.
Suggested Remedy 1. Attach blades to fan before operating. 2. Check to make sure all screws in motor housing are snug (not over-tight). 3. Check to make sure the screws which attach the fan flanges to the motor hub are tight. 4. Check to make sure that the switch housing does not bind against the blade hub. 5. Check to make sure wire connectors in switch housing are not rattling against each other or against the interior wall of the witch housing. 6. Tighten screws securely.
WARNING: Make sure main power is turned off.
Problem 3. Fan wobbles Probable Cause 1. Setscrew in motor coupling is loose. 2. Setscrew in the hanger ball/downrod assembly is loose. 3. Screws securing fan blade flanges to motor hub are loose. 4. Fan blade flanges not seated properly. 5. Hanger bracket and/or outlet box is not securely fastened. 6. Fan blades could be out of balance.
Suggested Remedy 1. Tighten the setscrew in the motor coupling. 2. Tighten the setscrew in the hanger ball/downrod assembly. 3. Check to be sure screws which attach the fan blade to motor hub are tight. 4. Check to be sure the fan blade flanges seat firmly and uniformly to the surface of the motor hub. If flanges are seated incorrectly, loosen the flange screws and retighten. 5. Tighten the hanger bracket screws to the outlet box, and/or secure outlet box. 6. Interchanging an adjacent (side-by-side) blade pair can redistribute the weight and result in smoother operation.
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY TURN OFF POWER AT FUSE BOX OR CIRCUIT BREAKER BEFORE TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR FAN!!!
Every air conditioner is equipped with at least two motors, the compressor and the fan motor. It is possible for the fan motor to be defective and the compressor to be running. If this is the case the unit will appear to be running and may even sound "normal" but no air is blowing out the front or back of the unit. If, after removing the cover of the unit you discover the fan blade is very stiff and difficult to rotate, the fan motor should be replaced. If the fan blade turns freely the circuit powering the fan motor will require electrical troubleshooting. It may be necessary to have a qualified technician locate the cause of the problem, which may be either a problem with the capacitor, the selector switch or the motor itself.
The noise you are hearing is due to the fan. The fan is used to cool the magnetron during cooking, and because this fan is not working the magnetron is overheating and the thermal protector is opening, killing power to the unit. All you need to fix this is a new fan blade. The fan blade(look for part #80) is slipping on the motor shaft ( the noise you are hearing).
most likly the fault is the fan blades touching the side of the circular hole,to test.1.switch of all power.2.when power is switched of try switching your oven to on position.if oven will not work then proceed3.if you can turn the fan blades by useing a thin piece of wood or simler.4 if when you turn the blades you hear a rubbing noise you might take a closer look if you have torch point it in if you see the blades touching or one of the blades touching it might be possable to to push the offending blade back very slightley useing the same piece of wood you yoused at 3.if this fails to solve your problem the fan moter might be ready to give up. I hope this can solve your problem.yours adrian.
The power ventor most likely needs to be replaced. But be advised. Goodman normally will not sell parts to anyone but a certified technician. I had to show my masters certificate to buy parts from their outlet. This is a part that has a high rate of failure.