Question about Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Igniter comes on, then gas, and flame, but only stays on for a few minutes before it goes out. It appears to be valve related, as I am still getting 120VAC to the coil pack (from the orange wire only, checking N back to grey wire at the timer). Sometimes there is more gas and a larger and hotter flame, like it should work, but this is intermitant too, and will eventually quit and then flame goes out altogether. Also, will not light again unless I unplug and wait several minutes, and sometimes it won't relight for several hours... what gives?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore elite he3 - door lock
If sound like a lid switch issue. Open the top of the washer to get an access to the lid switch(located near the doorframe). Look for a loose wire or a broken switch. In case there is no loose wire or broken switch, you should replace the switch. Good luck!
Posted on Sep 05, 2007
I would try to find out what the "F-01" means but if you need to replace circuit board they normal are easy to "unplug and replug" wires. But SEARS tech's would be best to repair. If can't find a source to tell you what F code stands for , call SEARS service and when he diagnoses problem you could see or ask him how to replace my tech is helpful that way, then it only cost the "service casll" rate and not hte return part replacement cost also
Posted on May 22, 2009
SOURCE: Gas Dryer model 110-77974110
the coils on your gas valve are going out , this is why it will work at first and stop , the coils heat up and wont open the valve again after they are heated.
I thought they were some what cheaper than they are now but still not too bad. you can try this part number search on ebay for the best price I can find.
279137 coil kit
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
"F06" is a Motor Speed error code. This is an indication that there is a problem with the Drive Motor, Tachometer, Motor Control Unit (MCU), Central Control Unit (CCU) and/or interconnecting wiring between the all these components. The following link explains:
I would begin by checking all the connector plugs between the CCU, MCU and Drive Motor to ensure none of them are loose or have corroded contacts.
Read through the link and follow the steps provided. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.
NOTE: The majority of the time this failure is attributed to a bad tachometer which is located on the MCU. If defective, the MCU must be replaced. There is a technical data sheet that comes with the washer. It is located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws located under bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet is not located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. Included are all the diagnostics and troubleshooting advice for your washer, including diagrams to show test points. HINT: For better access to the screws you can prop the two front feet of the washer up using a 2 x 4.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
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