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Flame won't stay on, Kenmore Mod 417.9386220

Igniter comes on, then gas, and flame, but only stays on for a few minutes before it goes out. It appears to be valve related, as I am still getting 120VAC to the coil pack (from the orange wire only, checking N back to grey wire at the timer). Sometimes there is more gas and a larger and hotter flame, like it should work, but this is intermitant too, and will eventually quit and then flame goes out altogether. Also, will not light again unless I unplug and wait several minutes, and sometimes it won't relight for several hours... what gives?

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SOURCE: kenmore elite he3 - door lock

If sound like a lid switch issue. Open the top of the washer to get an access to the lid switch(located near the doorframe). Look for a loose wire or a broken switch. In case there is no loose wire or broken switch, you should replace the switch. Good luck!

Posted on Sep 05, 2007

  • 8147 Answers

SOURCE: hi, i have a kenmore

Drop front panel
open pump sump
clear objects.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: Machine powers itself on-off / Error code F-01

I would try to find out what the "F-01" means but if you need to replace circuit board they normal are easy to "unplug and replug" wires. But SEARS tech's would be best to repair. If can't find a source to tell you what F code stands for , call SEARS service and when he diagnoses problem you could see or ask him how to replace my tech is helpful that way, then it only cost the "service casll" rate and not hte return part replacement cost also

Posted on May 22, 2009

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SOURCE: My kenmore Elite HE3t Giving a code F 06

"F06" is a Motor Speed error code. This is an indication that there is a problem with the Drive Motor, Tachometer, Motor Control Unit (MCU), Central Control Unit (CCU) and/or interconnecting wiring between the all these components. The following link explains:

I would begin by checking all the connector plugs between the CCU, MCU and Drive Motor to ensure none of them are loose or have corroded contacts.

Read through the link and follow the steps provided. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.

NOTE: The majority of the time this failure is attributed to a bad tachometer which is located on the MCU. If defective, the MCU must be replaced. There is a technical data sheet that comes with the washer. It is located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws located under bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet is not located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. Included are all the diagnostics and troubleshooting advice for your washer, including diagrams to show test points. HINT: For better access to the screws you can prop the two front feet of the washer up using a 2 x 4.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: F21 on the Kenmore HE2 Plus Frontload Washer

there is a removable access panel on the front of the machine under the door. Remove one screw from each side. There you will find the pump that has a strainer basket on it. Remove that and clean the blockage out of there. You will also find attached to the panel, another manual that explains the codes better

Posted on Jan 05, 2010

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore washer model # 110.24642300.

may be lid switch or motor bearings are worn out

Posted on Sep 22, 2010

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If the dryer lights and then goes out, you will need to replace the flame sensor. Here is the part to order.

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see this causes and use the common sense.God bless you
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Igniter Gas valve coils Thermal fuse Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too. To determine if the igniter is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one. Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.

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The most probable thing is going to be the igniter. Remove the lower panel,the one below the one where teh door is mounted to. On the lower right side will be the igniter it looks like thisoldtech2332_80.jpgUse a volt meter and check were it plugs into (not the igniter but were it plugs into) and start the dryer and check for 120 volts into the plug..if 120 volts at that plug the igniter is bad and it needs replacing.
If it does come on when starting the dryer before unpluging igniter to check voltage,watch and see if their is a flame..if their is a flame watch it a few cycles and see if a few flame on flame off cycles see if a couple times after coming on if the igniter comes on and goes off but no flame the gas valve coils will be the problem. Here is what the look likeoldtech2332_81.jpg
if the igniter does come on but not go off followed by a flame the flame sensor is going to be whats needed its pictured hereoldtech2332_82.jpg

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The dryer is not heating. The Heating element turns on and some times the flame comes off the then shuts. Most of the time the flame won't turn on

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

Check out this tip that will give more details…

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If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
Check out this tip to see the things that can fail to cause your electric dryer not to work.

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