Check your lid switch. If the
washer
fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and
then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly
caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted
under the
washer
top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is
activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through
a small hole on the
rim
of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the
lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact.
Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then
inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash
tub
rim) and make sure they are snug.
If not activated by a lid strike, other models have the lid switch located under the
washer
casing next to one of the lid hinges. It is activated by a rod
contacting an actuator. The mounting scews for this type are located
under the operator console.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to access the washer interior and replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switchIf
the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at
appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or
repairclinic.com. The average cost of a replacement is $25 to $35.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Key Symptoms:
If the Motor Coupling were bad the washer will not agitate or spin, but WILL drain.
If the Lid Switch fails, the washer will fill, but stop before the spin cycle and WILL NOT drain.
Comments:
Aug 23, 2009
- Okay...I'm a bit confused by your symptoms. When you say it will not stop when it fills or after the wash cycle, does this mean it continues to fill until it overflows? Or, does this mean the timer fails to advance? Or, does this mean the you can hear the motor running and nothing moves, but it just continues to run?
If the washer continues to fill, you may have a pressure switch problem that is not telling the washer to turn off the water at the appropriate level. If the washer does not know when to stop filling, the wash cycle will not begin and the washer will eventually overflow.
If the washer tries to fill but never reaches cut-off, or fails to maintain the water level, it could be continuously draining, which is known as "siphoning", Siphoning occurs when the drain line is not maintained at the appropriate height above the floor, or the hose is shoved too far down in the standpipe causing a vacuum.
Since you stated already replaced the motor coupling, the other logical choice to suspect would either be the basket drive assembly (which is located under the center post of the agitator, and is where the gearcase (transmission) inserts. Or, you may have a gearcase that has gone bad. With either one, you usually experience slow spins, and or a drum that will not spin with heavy loads, or without being assisted by hand. Another symptom would be an amber colored oil leaking from the gearcase.
Last of all, would be the clutch assembly, which is located between the basket drive and gearcase. If the clutch is worn, it will experience problems engaging during the wash cycle and/or stopping properly.
If any of these symptoms sound familiar, pease let me know.
Aug 24, 2009
- If the noise you hear is a grinding noise - most definitely a gearcase. However, if the tub strains to run, or will spin normally if you give it a spin - usually a basket drive assembly. If the washer strains to spin and will not spin on its own even if you assist and will not stop properly (glides to a stop rather than braking) - more than likely a clutch.
Sometimes these components can mask the symptoms of each other. This is a tough one to diagnose at times. Usually replacing the gearcase is the first choice.
Now, before panic sets in, this is not a difficult repair, if you follow the steps in the following link:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase
The part number is 3360629 and can be found at pcappliancerepair.com for about $145.
The basket drive assembly part number is 285792 and can be purchased for about $100 at searspartdirect.com.
The clutch assembly part number is 285785 and can be purchased for about $27 at appliancepartspros.com.
As you can see different sites carry the various parts at different prices. Some better than others.
The most expensive fix would be the gearcase. The least expensive option would be the clutch. If you perform these repairs yourself, you will avoid the cost of any labor (which can exceed $250). If you can narrow these symptoms down just a bit further, it may be easier for me diagnose a cause. I would hate for you to have to spend money that didn't provide a fix. Please let me know.
Expert
