Long Version: About a year ago, my 1993 Isuzu Rodeo "blew a seal" (don't know if it was a WHEEL seal, wheel cylinder seal, or what.) What happened was that the Rear ABS light on my dash came on when I had to brake real hard all of a sudden. Drove it a short distance further, smoke came from rear tires (axle oil or brake fluid, don't know). Tow truck took it to my local Midas shop. Midas had it for a day or two. They called and said they had fixed it, but ever since then, I have experienced the dash ABS light coming on, accompanied by rear brakes dragging.(I can tell by the extreme heat from standing by the rear tires.) I have taken it back to Midas several times and they said they have tried several solutions, but nothing has fixed this. They said they cleared trouble codes, replaced calipers, nothing has worked, (sometimes it has been WORSE after they work on it) and I let this go on too long to take legal recourse. On the other hand, my car with 15 year old Rear ABS technology is obviously beyond the scope of these "brake experts", so who would want a bunch of idiots to CONTINUE working on their vehicle?
Short Version: Driving my 1993 Isuzu Rodeo only on short trips during hot Florida days. Rear ABS light will come on when brakes are applied at one point, coupled with rear brakes dragging. Pull over, let cool for 10-15 mins, restart, good to go. (As long as there are no emergency or sudden stops-this will cause a repeat of the problem: Rear ABS light on/rear brakes drag.)
The only moving parts on brake's are caliper's and master cylinder.The rest are just pipe's. Dosent sound like the master cylinder as the two back brakes should lock not one. It still sounds like caliper's. Can you be sure they have changed them If it were mine I would get someone independent to check they have done the work they say they done.
If it's both back wheel's then it's the master cylinder. The master cylinder has two different sections one front the other for rear. Reason for this is if the rear has a leak the front will not be effected. This is why your front brakes are working as they should.
The reason your back brakes are staying on is the fluid is not going back to the master cylinder fast enough to let the brake off. When you wait 10 minutes the fluid preasure slowly goes down letting off the brake.You can buy a repair kit for some master cylinder's but other's are sealed unit's so need to replaceing. You will need to find out which your's is as I don't know. Sorry about earlier but I thought only one side was holding. Hope this will get you sorted. Cheer's
The only other thing on the line from the master cylinder to the brakes is the load sensing valve. This is screwed to the body with a bar connected to the back axle. It let's more preasure to the back wheels when you have a load on The bigger the load better breaks. This may be your problem so it's trial and error from here on in. Try disconecting the bar from the axle and push it up and down with your hand their is a piston on the end of the bar in the valve it may se siezed. This may release it if it is siezed spray Easing oil on it through the rubber boot pull it down fully and leave it off and try driving it . If you like you can bypass it as they are not fitted to japanese import's and the brakes work great without it.I don't like telling you to replace par'ts if they are not needed but can't pinpoint the problem from here. Unfortunatly I am going on holiday's for a few days and wont be back until monday. Hopefully you will be sorted by then but if not get back to me letting me know what you have tried and if I can I will help you further. Cheers
If its not a load sencing valve then I'm sorry as it is the only thing I have seen connected to the brake pipe's. If it has a bar comming from it to yhe axle then it has got somthing to do with load sencing. The piston wont be visable. Their should be a small rubber boot around the end of the bar on the senser if the bar won't move up and down then its seized penetrating oil may release it. If its not a load sensing valve then sorry but I cannot help you further
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You could have a collapsed brake hose going to one of the rear wheels or you may need a new master cylinder. Sounds like your brakes are not releasing when you push them. Assuming the wheel cylinders where replaced, this would be about the only other 2 options also assuming they put it back together correctly. :)
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Front brakes appear to work as they should. I am pretty sure the problem is just with the rear brakes; as evidenced by the high heat coming from the rear tire areas (BOTH SIDES). Front wheel brakes do not show any indication of malfunction. Brake pedal feels and acts as I think it should, until the Rear ABS light comes on; then brakes feel "hard" to apply.(I say HARD because the barkes do NOT feel spongey.) In spite of the brake "feel", the pedal throw and travel is unchanged. Brake fluid always at full mark.(No loss.) Hope this helps! Thanks for your time.
I would also like to point out that this model vehicle incorporates an additional hydraulic component for the rear brakes: the ABS Hydraulic Unit. I am pointing this out because I am by no means a brake expert and would like your feedback on how this part is configured into the brake hydraulics: i.e., could this be the actual part responsible for this problem? Thanks again for all the help.
I cannot see a piston on this ABS Hydraulic unit as you described on the "load sensor".
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog...
Are there any issues with the front breaks? Do they appear to drag? Can you be certain if both back tires drag or possibley just one? Does the break pedal return fully and properly? Thanks, Tom
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