Monitor does not fit on post

A) What is a laptop tower?

B) What is the model number of the Desktop PC?

This can be found on the back, near the Windows product key; or up on the side of the computer tower.

Is it an Acer?
Just pulling your leg about the laptop tower thing. I can see you meant Desktop, and not Laptop.
Just want to make sure you're not referring to an Acer laptop, while posting about a desktop computer made by somebody else.

Post back in a Comment.

I will try to find the User Manual for you, and take a look at this little beastie myself.

Regards,
joecoolvette

(Kicking rubber 'feet'................Hmmm, it's got good tread.

Looking down side of case............no, no bondo.........looks straight.

Yep,...............had oil changes at regular intervals..............there's the 3,000 minute WD-40 sticker...........

................oh, and Computerfax gives it a good report..........

WAIT a minute,..............what were we talking about? !O_O! ]

-the short term solution-
1. take your affected capsule. set it on its un-punctured/un-perforated bottom (the thin foil surface) on a flat surface. the three puncture holes should be facing upward on the top of the capsule. by the way, if you shake the capsule you should hear the grounds sound dry as if the capsule was new.

2. find a thin small rubber band. size-wise, ideally, the rubber band will fit loosely around your thumb; with a very small gap between the rubber and your thumb.

3. put the rubber band around the collar of the capsule. the band should be put over the top of the capsule and pushed down until it stops flush against the flange (rim). if the band is correctly placed, the band will be just 1mm flat inside the rolled bare aluminum edge (rim).

4. insert the capsule in your citiz machine as usual. optional: you can orient one of the puncture holes at 12 o'clock position (top dead center) during the insertion process. this time, it will work. you will find the capsule will eject cleanly with the rubber band intact.

5. save the rubber band.


-which machines does this apply to?-
this is a common problem with nespresso machines introduced after 2010, specifically the citiz. i have not seen this problem on the pixie, yet. i would expect this issue on the lattissima plus.
i am assuming that the machine is otherwise functioning properly: meaning that the machine does not have an issue with the water pump, excessive scaling deposits restricting water flow, or some other major mechanical part.
-why is this happening?-
look at the capsule, the post-2010 machines bite new slightly rectangular indentations on the capsule around the top edge of the wall. this is new. nepresso changed the insertion mechanism in response to competitors bringing non-nespresso branded capsules to market: Douwe Egberts/Sara Lee "L'or expressO", Caffe Vergnana "ESPRESSO", etc.
this new insertion mechanism was supposed to thwart knockoff capsules, instead it is unintentionally thwarting your "real" nespresso capsule. the injector needles are not piercing correctly all the way. the injectors poorly lodge: deep enough to make puncture holes but not deep enough to allow water to flow freely into the espresso grounds compartment.
two things can happen:
1. the pressure release valve, inside the brewing chamber which prevents an explosion occurring if the coffee exhaust path becomes blocked, is activated and hot water overflows into your used capsule basket.
2. the hot water flows outside and around the capsule and into your cup as clear hot water.
-what do i do long term?-
contact nepresso. get your machine repaired or replaced. this is a factory manufacturing defect that has nothing to do with you, wear, use, or hard water. refuse to pay the $125 repair fee. demand that they fix the machine free of charge. they will send you a loaner in a plastic shipping crate to use while your is being fixed. you should not have to suffer without espresso or waste legitimately purchased capsules just because nespresso is in a legal fight capsule copycats. this is not your fault.

Usually there is either a panel that covers the screw attachments on the back or the panel covers the bottom of the base or foot and the attachment screws are there, but most monitors have panels that cover the screw attachments.

Try turning it around. If it still doesn't fit, you may need a DVI to VGA adapter.

Hello,

You have a monitor with a common problem. After a few years some LCD monitors will blow a power supply. The problem is caused by parts called capacitors overheating in the confined space of he monitor. If you are good at electronics repair/soldering you can usually fix he problem. Check out a few pictures on my web site www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm You can take the back cover off your monitor and look for the bad parts, replace any that look like the pictues and your monitor should work fine. The capacitors do need to be installed with the correct + and - connections, note the stripe on the old one and insert the new one the same way. If you don't want to try the repair yourself we offer a repair service for $35 plus shipping. If you don't see any bad capacitors then the next thing would be bad CFL (backlight tubes) in the screen itself. If it is that then the monitor needs to be replaced because of the tech skills needed to replace then. I hope this helps, if so please rate my solution.

Buddy
Corporate Computer
www.ccl-la.com
Over 21 years of computer and printer support/repair

The solution is that you simply have to really force the monitor onto the base post. Thanks anyhow.

I just bought a 16 pack of the WB02T10461 GE replacement feet on ebay for $13 (free shipping). We'll see if they fit, but the pic indicates they should be an good match.

I have had the intake portion of the outside intake/exhaust fitting get packed in by freezing up during a windy storm, cutting off the intake air and giving an error 17. Had to get up on a ladder and chip away the packed snow and ice to open up the airway.

As per page 4 of the User's Manual from Acer:

Detaching the Monitor
If you need to repackage the monitor, please separate the monitor and base, and restore them to
the carton. To detach the monitor:
1. Unplug the AC power cord to make sure the power is off.
2. Pull the 4 hooks on bottom side of the base and hold.
3. Separate the monitor and base and put them into carton.