Question about KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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Kitchen aid stove problem

Kitchen aid stove stopped working with noise of short circuit.When opened the switch board panel the left rear swith had a burning mark. After replugging in the panel shows no light and when any of the switches is turned on panel shows light but no coil warms up.While keeping the coil button on oven works and when coil button is turned off oven stops working also.
P. Gill,
palgill@rogers.com

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  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    Hi my Kitchen Aid model KGCD 807XBL 01 has the following problems: it kept short circuit, when I turned it on, there is fire, smoke. What should I do?

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  • Master
  • 833 Answers

Peter,

First...be sure you cut power to the stove before you do anything. This is 220 volts and it can kill you. 220 Volts is based on two different lines of power coming to the stove, each of which is 110 volts...but opposite each other in phase. This may mean that some power to the stove is on and some is not. Let's go on.

I suspect a few things: First, the coil control for the burner is probably finished. What I also suspect is that it opened one of the two breakers (they are usually tied together in the panel and are either 40/50/60 amp units) causing some lights but no action.

What to do: Reset the breakers as a pair by turning them off and on. If one snaps off, you have a problem at the stove. If not,...which I doubt...you're in business.

Let's look at replacing the control. Shut the breakers. Now, take the burned control and remove it. Note the wiring positions if they are not on a plug. If they are terminals, tape the ends. Now, reset those breakers. If the other burners work, replace the control. Take the old one to the parts store. If it doesn't work, look around the burned area for broken wires. Repair and tape them up. Try again. Oh, and don't let anyone touch the stove while you're working with those breakers.

Posted on Dec 03, 2007

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1 Answer

Loud pop from Range, stove top still works


The pop was a shorted wire.
The short drew sudden over-amp at breaker.
Amps = heat.
Breaker senses heat and trips before wire to oven is damaged, and before the arcing short can cause a fire.
Was the short at the element?
I don't know, but sounds like the circuit board was damaged.
Of course they are putting electronics inside all appliances today instead of old mechanical dial, because it's cheaper or so much prettier... but new appliances more vulnerable to surge, and other electrical failures. Which is true for all 240V appliances not protected by whole house surge protector.
To test element.
Remove element.
Use a continuity tester across the element connections.
If there is continuity, then the element is probably functional.
Use a multimeter across same element, set multimeter to read ohms.
240 Volt, 3500 watt element should be about 16 ohms.
4500 watt about 12-13 ohms
Volts squared divided by watts = ohms
57,600 divided by 4500 watt = 12.8 ohms
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

I would guess that the short fried the circuit board, but there is a also a shorted wire somewhere that is still bare and dangerous while power is ON and you are touching oven or stove, unless 240V breaker is GFCI or arc fault, which probably not. Especially dangerous if you are moving stuff around trying to find problem while power is ON.
Gene
h

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