Question about Philips Audio Shelf Systems

1 Answer

Philips 777 stylus force adjustment

I have a Philips 777 and forgot how to adjust the tone arm. I have to adjust the tone arm counter-weight stylus force, but am not sure what to set it for. Also the dial in back spherical/elliptical. I have an Ortifon LM15 cartridge and stylus.

Posted by on

1 Answer

Re: Philips 777 stylus force adjustment

LM15 has an elliptical stylus so 1,5 - 1,8g should be sufficient, and also dial the same number on the anti skate for elliptical stylus and go for it

Posted on May 26, 2008

Add Your Answer

0 characters

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add


3 Points

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I need to know how I can adjust the arm for the record player

there is not a great deal of user adjustable parts in this unit. If weighting is a problem, use the age old trick of adding the smallest ammounts of blu tack to the headshell to increase the down force

Jan 07, 2011 | Electro Brand Nostalgic Stereo CD Music...

1 Answer


It's possible your weight adjustment has been mis-adjusted since you last used your turntable. On the tonearm, there should be a weight adjustment wheel. Turn this all the way towards the needle (IN). Now, adjust it backwards until there is no resistance in the tone arm - this is your zero point, reset the wheel on the weight adjustment knob to read 0. Now, adjust it forward to 3 grams of downward pressure. This is usually the minimum amount of force needed on a record. If it still skates at this setting, adjust it with gradual amounts of greater force until the skating stops.

Jan 11, 2008 | Audio Shelf Systems

2 Answers

I just got this unit, and tried to put on a record, but the needle just goes strait to the center and wont actually play the record.....any suggestions???

the tone arm need adjustment by a techician or you could try a new needle.

When testing use a record that is in good condition but not one you like.

Sep 16, 2009 | Electro Brand Nostalgic Stereo CD Music...

2 Answers

Record player sounds scratchy and tinny

Playing records is a contact sport.

Since the needle touches the record -- as opposed to a laser reading a CD -- any bit of dust or mold translates to annoying pops and hisses.

Record cleaners get down into the record grooves to extract dust and particles.

Or you may need a new needle.

Mar 25, 2009 | Electro Brand Nostalgic Stereo CD Music...

1 Answer

The record player skips

Hi There,
From your description it sounds like there is insufficient weight on the needle end of the pick up arm.

The pickup arm is very delicate in its balance at the "rear arm end" fulcrum.

This weight is adjustable to allow the needle to press on the music track to an exact pressure and it is adjustable so that this pressure does not damage the music track.

There should be a wheel type thingy at the rear end of the pickup arm.

This wheel is usually marked in Grams, and to make the needle end heavier to stop "skipping' you turn the wheel to wards the + sign.
This + sign means more weight on the needle.

There also should be a - sign, and the wheel, when turned in that direction, the weight on the needle is reduced.
You need to be aware that a needle really needs to exist in the cartridge as they can be broken off very easily and if there is no needle present there, then there is no way you will get any music from the turntable.

So check there really is a needle there...use a magnifying glass to see....

If thats OK then place the needle end of the pickup arm on to the record surface and turn the weight wheel until the needle just lifts from the record surtface.
Now that this stage has been received turn the weight wheel in the reverse direction by around 5-7 grams in the heavy + direction.

The needle should now be resting on the records surface and not lifting at all.

It should play like this,,,BUT please ensure the record player is on a perfectly flat surface the
needle wont work on any incline at all...

If you turn the amp on in the phono switch position and carefully hold the needle over the record and touch the needle with your finger you should get a scratchy sound from the speakers.....

This is a basic test to ensure the amplifier and all the wiring is in place and doing its job..
Im Sorry you had a run around from the repair company but some of them are not interested in repair work any more they just want to sell new hardware...
It pays to ask if they are Pepared to repair stuff for you , then get a commitment of a reasonable repair date and time in writing.

If this date and time is exceeded then you dont have to pay for the repairs do you??
As they have missed the service level agreement you had with them for the reapir date and time..

Hope this helps


Aug 13, 2008 | Teac GF-350 CD Shelf System

1 Answer


Hi Vat,
Although I live in Canada now, I was born in the former
Czecholsovakia. While I spent a year in the Czech Republic in
2006, I was amazed how advanced their technology was, in
comparison to Canada or the US. If you want modern technology,
Prague is the place to go. Anyway ...

1) As I said before, do NOT adjust the tone-arm weight up
and down. This setting must be set to match the stylus and
the cartridge !!! The wrong setting is very bad.

To get the weight adjusted correctly, do the following.

a) Check the cartridge and stylus (needle) specifications, on
the WEB if necessary.

A typical tracking weight is between 0.9 grams to 1.5 grams,
but this very much depends on the needle geometry. To much
weight will damage the needle and the record, but

so will too little, because the needle will not stay on the
surface, skipping or mistracking on loud passages.

Note that the tracking acceleration is proportional to the
the square root of the loudness, multiplied by the frequency
squared. So if the tracking force is too low, the needle will
bounce over high frequencies and damage the record as
well as the needle's tip.

2) Once you know the correct force for your needle, adjust
the rear weight for ZERO force, such that the needle just
floats weightlessly in the air. If your turn-table has an anti-
skating adjustment, set that to zero as well.

3) At this point the tone-arm should be totally weightless,
and should neither touch the plater nor swing up/down
by itself. It should float halfway.

4) A this point, adjust the rear weight's dial (not the weight) to
read zero. Note that the dial will slide, while you hold the
weight still. You have now calibrated the tone-arm's zero

5) Now, adjust the weight (with the dial) to read the desired
tracking force, for example 1.25 grams.

6) Now adjust the anti-skating dial to the same number as
the rear weight. This setting compensates for the radial
(towards the center) component of the friction vector,
caused by the needle riding on the record groove, at some
specific (average) tone-arm angle.

7) Your tone arm is now balanced, and you should not
touch it after this, accept for minor adjustments.

For brand new records, you may lighten the tone-arm
by 10%. For old records, you can make it a little heavier.
Similarly, you can adjust the anti-skating to prevent a
record from skipping, but a bad record should be played
only once (and stored on your computer).

8) For some tone-arms and cartridges, the cartridge pitch
(up/down angle) is also adjustable. This requires a special
jig or gauge, supplied by the cartridge manufacturer.

The pitch can be adjusted either by the use of screws or
wedges, and by lowering / raising the rear gimble. On my
Technics SL 1200, the gimble elevation is adjustable with
a large ring, and my SURE V15 cartridge came with a guage
for adjusting it correctly.

9) It may also be possible to adjust the cartridge's yaw and
radius, but all of these adjustments should only be done
using the correct gauges and by strictly following the
cartridge installation manual.

10) NONE of these adjustments should effect the tone-arm
cueing or return process. There should be plenty of
clearence if the cueing mechanism is working properly,
except, perhaps, for the gimble elevation, if the cartridge
is unusually tall.

11) Is the cuing mechanism (i.e. the tone-arm lifter)
mechanical or hydraulic ?

Is it the lift consistent or does the tone-arm drop down
with time?

Does the tone-arm move parallel to the plater, or does the
stylus height change with tone-arm position (yaw)

You are looking for a mechanical defect in the cuing

12) How much over all lift do you get between the down position
and the up position? This should be at least 8 to 15mm

If the cuing mechanism is worn out, it may not move enough.

If it starts too low, it may move enough but not raise the
needle enough to clear the record.

If the cartridge is tracking too low, you may have to
remove some wedges or spacers between the cartridge
and the head, or lift the rear gimble if it is adjustable, or
get a different tone-arm head, that matches the cartridge

Finally as silly as this sounds, make sure that the
platter is fully dropped and properly engaged. If the
plater is too high, for what ever reason, this would also
cause the needle to drag.

Also make sure that the rubber mat on the plater is the
right one and that it is not too thick.


installation manual.

Jul 02, 2008 | Audio Shelf Systems

1 Answer

Problem with autoreturn of tonearm

This very much depends on the type (and vintage) of the

Very old turntables used a system of mechanical CAMs,
slaved to the main plater. Once engaged (usually through
a hinged/retracted gear-tooth), the platter would spin the cam,
which in turn would lift the tone arm, move it back home,
shut off the power and disengage itself after one complete

This system could be mechanically triggered with the power off,
just by swinging the tone arm towards the center, and spinning
the platter manually by hand. To fix it you had to make internal
mechanical adjustments, or replace worn out levers, wheels,
bearings, springs, etc...

A more modern turntable will use electrical sensors,
such as a micro-switch under the tonearm gimbals,
which is triggered as the tonearm swings towards the center.
A second switch is coupled to the stop/ return button.

Once the mech. is triggered, it can derive its power from the
plater (as before) or use a separate servo motor to lift
and return the tone-arm. The viscously damped cueing
mechanism can also be involved in lifting the arm during
the return cycle.

At the hi-tech extreme, a microprocessor can control the
whole works through the use of selenoids and stepping
motors with optical or magnetic sensors to trigger it,
position it and disengage it.

0) Note:
During all testing, remove the record and cover the
stylus with its protective gate to prevent damage.

If the stylus slides out of the cartridge, like it did on the
Shure cartridges, remove the stylus gently and put it in
a safe place to avoid damaging it. You do NOT want to
ever drop the stylus on the spinning rubber platter surface.

But leave the main head and cartridge in place for normal
tone-arm balance.

Turn off your amplifier, or turn down the volume to zero, to
prevent damage to your ears and the speakers if the needle
does fall when it shouldn't

1) Assuming that this is a fairly modern turntable, with
a gimbal mounted tone arm (the large double hung ring
bearing at the back for swinging both ways) and a
counter weight for setting the stylus pressure...

and possibly an anti-skating adjustment as well...

It is fair to assume that the cuing lever is what lifts
the arm vertically, regardless of the swing return mechanics.

2) The premature stylus drop (during return) is therefore
caused either by a cuing defect, or by lift timing,
either mechanical or electronic.

The stylus weigh setting is NOT an issue here, that
is determined by the stylus and cartridge specifications,
and must be set correctly to prevent record and stylus

Note that both too much and to little weight is BAD.
Too much weigh is obvious, but too little will cause
mis-tracking, distortion and premature record wear.

Similarly, and incorrect tracking pitch or yaw will also
cause early damage, as will incorrect anti-skating for
a particular stylus pressure.

3) First of all, test the cuing lever at several different tone-
arm angles, to see if it stays up, or droops down with time.

If there is a problem, check the springs, viscous damping..

Take the ****** apart from below, and see what gives.
Is it mechanical, hydraulic, or electronic ?

4) If it is electronic, you have a control/ timing problem,
which requires a service manual and a qualified electronic
tech to fix it.

You should be able to check any sensors, switches
or motor yourself, though.

5) If the cuing lift system is mechanical, check the levers
and cams:
What is driving it ?
Is it broken ?
Is worn out ?
Is it out of adjustment ?
Is it slipping ?
Is it stuck ?
Is one of the springs all stretched or missing ?

6) If the lift is hydraulic or pneumatic, check for leaks.

7) If the manual lift seems to work, but the automatic return
drops it...

what is controlling it ?
how is it linked it to the arm return mech ?
Is there a coordination/timing problem ?

Have fun.
Please rate my answers.


Jul 01, 2008 | Audio Shelf Systems

1 Answer

Early tone arm pickup

On some record players there is an adjusting screw at the back of the tone arm that adjusts the tone arm drop in location but I don't think it will adjust the pick up point. That is controled by a steel rod under the record player deck that moves over and pushes a little trip lever near the center of the platter so that a gear is engauged and the end of record cycle is started. I'm not sure but you may be able to find an adjustment under the deck that is near the rotation point of the tone arm that will adjust that rod so that it will pickup later. Hope this helps some.

Dec 26, 2007 | Teac GF-350 CD Shelf System

1 Answer

Aiwa LX770 Turntable won't start

It's a bit after Jim's post, however I had what appears to have been the same problem with my LX770 after it had been stored in the loft for quite a few years. I found the problem to be caused by the tone arm mechanisms stalling - The band that was associated with lifting the arm had turned to a black gunge and was not allowing the motor to rotate, also the motor associated with moving the arm backwards and forwards was struggling to turn. I cleaned the tone lifting pulleys and replaced with a small elastic band (for a temporary fix). This was a little fiddly as you have to take off a spring and a couple of gears to get the new band in place. I cleaned the runners and cleaned off the grease on the worm gears associated with the arm tracking (as I suspected it may be more viscus than originally installed), lightly oiled the tone arm tracking gears. It still seamed to take an amount of helping the tracking arm gears until they were able to move freely. With the tone arm mechanisms working properly the whole unit now seams to be working.
Top tips if you attempt this: WARNING - If the unit is plugged in, the transformer and high voltage wires are live regardless of whether the on button is on or off on the front of the record deck. PLEASE do not take any of my comments as recommendation you should ever do anything with the unit plugged in! Remove the little stylus carrier before you start taking the player to pieces - saves damaging it! Remove the record mat and aluminium platter before turning the unit upside down. Manually push the tone arm to about 0.5cm from its furthest travel - so you can remove the tone arm mechanism plate. May be a little stiff as the wires have to slide of the pulleys for the tone arm to be pushed. To access the tone arm mechanisms, remove the main bottom plate (and greasy spring), then undo the screws which hold on the rear undertray. With the decks buttons toward you, you should then be able to lift the rear tray slightly and tilt the tray towards you to expose the tone arm mechanisms. You shouldn't need to remove the circuit board with the control buttons on the front of the unit.
After getting it going, I found that I needed a Phono preamp to get the signal strength necessary to use the deck for transferring vinyl to my PC.
Good luck

Oct 20, 2007 | Audio Shelf Systems

1 Answer

Problem playing 45 Records to their entirety.

There is an adjustment on the tone arm that you use to set where the tone arm picks up at the end of the record. This adjustment is normaly at the back (pivot point) of the tone arm and will be on the side probably. By the way, the tone arm is the part that the stylus is mounted to that swings back and forth to reach all the surface of the record. Make your adjustment and then test and continue doing this until you get it just where you want it. It is a process of trial and error. Good luck.

May 20, 2007 | Emerson NR303TT CD Shelf System

Not finding what you are looking for?
Audio Shelf Systems Logo

Related Topics:

710 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Philips Audio Shelf Systems Experts


Level 3 Expert

4518 Answers


Level 3 Expert

6993 Answers

The Knight
The Knight

Level 3 Expert

66463 Answers

Are you a Philips Audio Shelf System Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides