Question about Acer Aspire 5920-6727 Notebook
Tried power reset suggested by Acer tech support site with no success.
The Aspire 5920 and most other acers with the same logic board style are notorious for component level power issues. The first possibility is a severed connection in the DC connector cable. Its somewhat rare but it happens. The connection is broken right where that cable meets the back pin of the DC connector. This can be easily resoldered and your problem is solved. Becuase the AC adapter is blinking this makes me think that there is a shorted component on the logic board. If you have access to a multimeter set it to check voltage, remove the large panel on the bottom case (4 long screws). Then remove the fan (3 small screws) and the heatsink (4 custom screws). Once these are all removed you can look at the back side of the DC connector and see the cable. The cable consists of 4 wires, 2 black, and 2 brown. Black are ground lines, and brown are power. Using your multi meter (1 lead to ground and 1 lead to power) see what voltage you have right at the logic board side connector for this cable. If this is not the cause of your problem you should see ~19v. If yousee less, or nothing at all, its likely that either your AC adapter is bad, or the cable has been severed on the DC connector side. The last possibility (the one I feel is the cause for your issue) is that you will see a pulsating voltage. This means you have a capacitor short on the logic board. There are quite a few possible caps on the board that could short out like this. The picture below shows the 2 most commonly shorted caps on this logic board. Use your meter to check continuity between both sides of these caps, if you gen full continuity then the cap, one in line with it, or another in the circuit is shorted. Remove both of these caps and then meter the 2 pads beneath them in the same way you metered the caps. If you do no receive full continuity anylonger, then 1 or both of those caps were the cause for the short. You can also meter the caps themselves off of the logic board and if you receive full continuity the cap/s are bad. If you have removed the caps and still register a short on the logic board, then its time to strip the machine down and remove the logic board, repeat these steps with all ceramic capacitors (like the ones in the picture) until you no longer register a short. Just as a side note, after removing components from logic boards you must wait until it cools to room temperature otherwise your mulitmeter readings may be inaccurate.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
Testimonial: "Two capacitors circled show a resistance of 0.5 ohm (short?) and the two diagonal side capacitors show a resistance of 1.8k Ohm. Now what to do?"
To remove these capacitors properly you would require a hot air tool or an iron capable of working with lead free solder. These are expensive items so I do not expect that just anyone would have then lying around. These caps are redundancies within the circuit and aren't vital to the logic board. They can be removed and do not need to be replaced. If you're feling bold you can litereally take a pair of needle nose pliers and break the capacitors off of the logic board. Make sure not to pull them off, you want to crack them in half and remove the who parts carefully so as not to lift the pads that the cap was sitting on or pull up a trace connected to said pads.
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
With the bottom open and the empty side Battery facing you (speaker is to the top right). I have 1 good Acer 5920 and one that is completely dead. In the dead unit, I check continuity of each of the white power female pins to ground and all were shorted (beeps) which means the power is shorted to ground. I found that PC118 and PC112 on the good unit has 0.09 both ways. The dead unit has 0 both ways. I broke off both PC118 and PC112. Put it back together and it works like normal. As you can see from the electrical drawing, the 2 caps shorted to ground will prevent the laptop powering up. I looked for a while for PC108 but could not find it but it works so I guess it was not bad. Like everyone else, I am wondering where to buy replacements. I
Posted on Jan 14, 2013
QUANTA ZD1 - REV E.pdf for component list
Posted on Mar 22, 2011
The blinking light on the adapter could indicate a motherboard issue or a short in the adapter cable. Try another Ac adapter. If the issue is still the same try to power on the system with a charged battery. If still no go. Contact ACER support as it can be a hardware failure.
Rate if useful.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
Can anyone post a picture of the mobo with the location of the capacitors identified?
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
I had a PC112 or 118 shorted, removed both, and the computer now light up to standby, but it just cut off when hitting the power button, I found that removing the internal lcd cable, the computer works and boot just fine plugged to a vga monitor. plugging the lcd back on shuts down the laptop instantly, I could track that the lcd uses the 19v rail, but I couldn't find any short on the lcd, my guess is that the laptop power supply is entering in protection mode and I have to reset by unplugging the charger and waiting a few seconds, but I can't find the faulty. Does anyone have any clue?
Posted on Jun 12, 2014
Hello guys sorry for posting after a while but heres my situation, i checked continuity and found a short in pc112 and removed it(i didnt use solder i just took/broke it off with my hands) all was good i powered on, as i fully powered up i tried to move it and the charging cable slipped out, the pc turned off, (apparantly the battery doesnt work anymore) trying to turn it on again doesnt work. the charging led lights up but absolutely nothing else does possibly another short? i thought pc112 wasnt necessary is it? would this happen if i removed the capacitors wrong? what does the pad look like anyways that you speak of?
Posted on Jun 07, 2013
Guys.. I had the same problem on my Acer 5920G After setting the laptop in Sleep mode, i accidentaly removed the Power supply from the laptop and i hadn't any battery connected to it. When i inserted the battery (Empty) and i connected the lap on the power supply, the charger green led started blinking... The laptop was dead, no sign from the orange led when battery is empy, no blue led indicating that i have charger connected. Only the green blinking light on charger. After 10 minutes, i hear something blowing inside the laptop, to the black thing writing "100PF" that can be seen from Annonymous. The "charging" led indicator started blinking like crazy so fast and i immediatly removed the power supply from the laptop. I smelled something like "****", and by touching this black 100PF thing it was very hot !! After this, if i press the button to boot the laptop, i can see an Orange identification says "No battery!" which i couldn't before. I also can boot the laptop "with removed battery, hadn't tried to place the battery after this" with the power supply connected.. But before the **** smell, the laptop was really dead.. What can i do?? What is this 100PF black think?? Is this my problem?? Help plz !! Thanks by advance.
Posted on May 18, 2012
You Sir are a genius, saved me a 179.00 motherboard replacment. All I did was break them off using some real small neddlenose plaiers and BAM, laptop working like new, thank you
Posted on Feb 26, 2012
Thanks to you i was able to localise the bad caps PC112 PC118 and PC90. After removing them everythings seems to work fine (Green LED on the PowerSupply doesn flash anymore and the Blue LED on the Laptop is working).
Now i want to know if i can run the laptop without those caps, or does i have to replace them before using the laptop?
Thanks in adavance for your help.
Posted on Jun 12, 2011
I only removed the capacitor and it had no effect, so will i need to bridge the connection for now? I had the no power problem and removing the two other capacitors beside the RAM gave me power but the laptop will not run off the battery.
Posted on Feb 08, 2010
Your solution worked, I soldered off the capacitors you suggested and replaced them and the laptop now powers on!! BUT If I try to run it just from the battery, there is no response. Any clue why this might be??
P.S. I have tested the DC Voltage of the battery and it is all good.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
Machtech, if the capacitators are short as you describe then how do you replace these? where can they be bought from? do they have to be soldered on?
Matchtec, i too have an Acer 5920 which suddenly stopped powering up, its just out of warranty and the pc shop said that the motherboard is dead and that a new motherboard is required. DC adapter is fine as i have a new one as one plugged in the bottomm of the laptop just below the battery does get warm, so power is being sent but something is preventing it from booting up.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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