You don't need to remove those triangular screws. Just remove the standard phillips head screws. Slide the plastic "foot" off, & you should gain all the access you need. If you should determine to go after those triangular screws, anyway, there are two ways. 1. with a dremel cutting disk, cut a slot in the head of the screw, and remove with a regular screwdriver. 2. Sacrifice a cheap screwdriver by putting it to a grinding wheel, and forming it into a triangle.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The screw may be triangular, or Torx (star pattern), or even 'pin-in-Torx', which all require special tools. They do it to prevent people from opening them up. But you can buy the tools, and for triangular screws I ground an old screwdriver down to match the shape!
Those screws are called 'Tamper Proof' or 'Tamper Resistant'. If you google those you'll find tool sets that will open dang near anything.
I have a 2002. After making sure you remove all visible screws, these panel snap off and snap back on. Any resistance, re-look in that area for a missed screw(s). Restated: Once all screws have been removed, pull out the panels. It is a lot easier that it looks. Start with the lower steering column. Look from underneath with a flashlight. You will see the screws and screw holes. The lower "kick" panel (driver side) screws can be seen by looking underneath it. Other than a screw driver, no "special tools" are needed. Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Most watches are either screwed on and typically have a series of small notches around the circumference of the case back. A special tool is generally called for. Otherwise they are "snap back" . These are simply pressed on. To remove you can carefully use a regular knife in the absence of a "case knife". There is usually a small gap/groove/notch area to insert the balde and lift the back off.
This is not the first mis-guided post I've seen about this. A screwdriver for the set screw is fine on some models. Other models the front wheel bearings must be removed and usually replaced to get the rotors off. The bearings are fairly cheap at the local napa etc.. So just replace them. Be careful of the advise given on here. People think that one answer covers all models. This is not the case. Usually given buy a youngster who honestly beleives hes a mechanic.
a special tool is required to turn and press the caliper piston at the same time this tool is quite expensive so i sugjest having the pads replaced proffesionally but if you have the time a patience you can try to press the piston in with some slip joint pliers or screw driver while you turn the piston clockwise/ counterclockwise (depending on side) with something else to screw it back into it's bore. best of luck. P.S. many manufacturers are using this style caliper piston now so if your a mr. fix it the special tool is worth buying.
There is a special tool - heater hose disconnect tool - that looks like a two pronged fork on the end of a handle that is recommended for use in releasing the clips on the hoses. I was able to get the tool as a loaner from Autozone, OEM#27106. (actually they charge you for the tool and then credit you back when returned). I used advise from another blog on the topic and wrapped the large 'fork' of the tool with metallic duct tape to enable it to slip over the clips. Theoretically you puch the fork down over the clips and then push in to release the clips...remove the tool and slide the hose off (theory and practice are two different things). Having just completed this repair myself I can tell you that the special tool did not work well. It has to be aligned too exactly and there was not sufficient space under my hood for this to happen. It did make turning the hose easier however and I do think it may have released one side of the clip...as you know it's hard to see/tell given the location of these connectors. What I found most effective, though time consuming, was to twist the top hose to expose one clip. Using a long shafted screw driver and a small hammer, I literally punched the clip under the retaining ring. Then rotating the top hose 90 degrees to expose the other clip I did the same thing. Whew... then onto the lower hose. Purchase replacement clips (the pair at Ford dealer were about $30) as getting them off is not easy...I used spring hooks, needle nose pliers, etc. but knew I had replacements to use. The new clips also come with the o-rings...to be installed in rubber, plastic, rubber sequence. Pushing the hoses back on the replacement core was challenging also. I found that flarring the wings of the clips helpped as well as twisting the hose so that the tabs would hit the metal frame of the hole and not the padding. Good Luck, it's a tight fit.
there are no specialized tools required other than mectric wrenches some screw drivers and ratchet/sockets. a little common sense is all the knowledge you need. make sure to top off the coolant.good luck. please rate this solution.
An authentic Rolex will have a screw down back with
exactly 144 small teeth. You can only open a Rolex case with a special
Rolex tool (Key). We use the Bergeon hand wrench to open Rolex cases. Supplied with 6 Bergeon
grooved chucks(18.50, 20.20, 22.50, 26.50, 28.30 and 29.50 mm), these
are the same chuck used in the Bergeon 5700RO and will fit in the
Bergeon Bit Adpater for 5700-Z Case Opener our number FB-231.
Replacement chucks and replacement handle are available in case you
have a set that is missing a piece. As is the case with any fine mechanical instrument, special
tools are required in order to properly service and adjust a precision
instrument such as a fine timepiece. If you are not experienced, it is better to leave this to a Certified Rolex tech. If you do feel you want to proceed, this tool will set you back about $140.00 or so. Just as the internal parts of the Rolex are exact, so is the watch case
that protect the valuable watch movement. These tools are used to open
the Rolex case without causing expensive damage. You can call Bob Frei at 510-832-0355 ext. 2 from 11 AM to 5 PM Pacific Time Zone, to order one if you wish, or several other sellers of these fine tools can be found by doing a little research on the net. Hope this has helped you.