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This TV was offered for free because it did not turn on. I was told that a tech looked at it and said it needed a switch. I cleaned and tested the switches with a meter and they didn't appear to be bad. When I turned it on it would click and the power light would blink 3 times and go off - no picture or sound at all. I saw some arcing from one of three wires that lead to the board on top of the picture tube and resoldered the wires, since then the power supply (I think) transformer is squealing (definitely not the flyback). I appreciate any help.
I never got the set fixed, I tested the power supply transformer and the flyback and I believe the flyback had shorted. I was guessing since I didn't have a schematic. I felt that it wouldn't be worthwhile to purchase the schematics so it went in the garbage.I never got the set fixed, I tested the power supply transformer and the flyback and I believe the flyback had shorted. I was guessing since I didn't have a schematic. I felt that it wouldn't be worthwhile to purchase the schematics so it went in the garbage.
AnonymousMar 05, 2008
Turn on tv power light blanks a couple of times and go out.Turn on tv power light blanks a couple of times and go out.
AnonymousMar 05, 2008
turn on power and just blink three timesturn on power and just blink three times
Squealing at plug-in. Replaced H.O.T. which fried at turn on. Does Flyback and HOT usally complete this repair??Squealing at plug-in. Replaced H.O.T. which fried at turn on. Does Flyback and HOT usally complete this repair??
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Hi,
It appears that your unit has switched to protective mode (hence also no HV). When you unplug the set and "speakers thump", that would mean that the low B+ is still active and your SMPS is good.
Your post "No high voltage" leads me to believe that you have a fair idea of working inside a TV. Should you venture to do-it-yourself (of course the standard precaution when working with TV units specially HV section), try checking:
1. an inductor/coil supplying the main B+ to the horz (probably L14???), resolder fully;
2. the Horizontal circuitry with special attention to the HOT (TL0?) and the FBT. It may also be a good idea to have the FBT ring tested.
Other than above, it's the usual check with your VOM with attention to B+ line.
Hope this be of some help/idea. Good luck and kind regards.
Check for a bad connection on L14401(coil) Re solder even if the connection looks good. This could cause an intermittant on and off on that model. Hope this helps you.
Most RCA repairs on your chassis series require a new IHVT,
AKA flyback transformer . Inside an Integrated HVT are diodes
that can degrade and give the appearance of a bad cap....
Of course, you should check the electrolytics with an ESR
meter, just in case....
The model you listed, F27650 uses the new ATC113 series chassis, which is only about 3 years old. The ATC113 chassis is not known to have snowy issues, but if yours is then I would suspect that a solder joint is loose in the tuner. If your set is actually around 9 years old, then it might perhaps have the notorious CTC175 - CTC187 series chassis, which went snowy all the time due to cracked solder joints on the shield grounds around the tuner and microprocessor. In either case, some good quality resoldering should cure your trouble. If you have never done fine solder work on PC boards with small surface-mount parts, allow a qualified tech to handle it for you.
I never got the set fixed, I tested the power supply transformer and the flyback and I believe the flyback had shorted. I was guessing since I didn't have a schematic. I felt that it wouldn't be worthwhile to purchase the schematics so it went in the garbage.
Turn on tv power light blanks a couple of times and go out.
turn on power and just blink three times
same
Squealing at plug-in. Replaced H.O.T. which fried at turn on. Does Flyback and HOT usally complete this repair??
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