DSR Recorder will not boot up properly, have powered down for 2 minutes (more than once) unhooked cales and pulled access card, power back up and get "Powering Up" Screen but never searches for sattellite services and sits on this screen for quite a while. Then will go to "Directv, Just a few more minutes" screen and never goes past it.
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Remove door card torx and Phillips needed
the window frame needs to come out to get clearance
remove the lock bolts in side of door (torx very tight) unplug the loom from the lock and unhook the rod from the inside pull handle
once done the actuator comes out leaving the lock barrel clipped to the door - replace in reverse expecting it to take a while and don't break the plastic clips holding in the actuator rods or they will fall out down the line...
hello, Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent shock when handling the door components. Loosen the cable's nut with the pliers and slide it away.Pop off the side-view mirror interior panel with the tweeter on it. Use the door panel trim tool or a flat-bladed tool, such as a putty knife, wrapped in masking tape. Once the panel is off, unplug the speaker connection from behind it. Push the connector's tab in with a flat head screwdriver and pull the connector away.Open the door fully to expose the screw cover on the front part of the door panel. Pry out the screw cover with a flat head screwdriver. Pry out the small centerpiece; not the ring surrounding it. Behind the cover, you'll find a Phillips screw; remove it. Open the screw cover flap behind the inside door handle. Insert the tip of a flat head screwdriver into the upper-slot; push down to open the flap. Remove the Phillips screw from behind the flap.Pull off the plastic door handle surround piece. Insert the door trim tool behind the panel; pull it back to pull the panel off. Slide the surround piece away from the door panel. Remove the circular screw cover from the inside door pull storage compartment. Pry it up with the flat head screwdriver. Remove the Phillips screw behind the cover.Remove the screw cover from the rear-edge of the door panel. This cover is similar to the one on the front part of the door panel; pry out the center part, not the ring surrounding it. Remove the Phillips screw behind it. Remove the two Phillips screws visible along the bottom part of the door panel. Pry around the perimeter of the door panel with the door trim tool. Pull the tool handle back to pop the door panel clips out. Do this for each side, except for the top. Once the clips are unhooked, the panel is ready for removal. Gently pull the door panel away from the Optima's door, but only enough to access the area behind it. The connections for the power equipment must be unplugged. Reach around and depress the connection tabs with the tip of the flat head screwdriver; unplug the connection. There are three connections to unplug. Once they are unplugged, pull the door panel away.
The problem almost certainly is that the axle of the brush in your power bar has dirt/fluff in it that is preventing the belt from turning it so that the fuse in the power bar clicks off after 2 or 3 seconds. It is fairly easy to fix. All you will need is a Phillips screwdriver and about 15 minutes. Follow the following steps
1. With the power bar disconnected from the vacuum, turn it upside down and you will see two inset screws at the rear side of the base of the power bar. Unscrew these two screws using your Phillips screwdriver.
2. With the power bar in the same position unlatch the two plastic tabs at the rear of the power par. [It may be useful to flip up the metal bar that you see on the base to use as a handle] On each side of the base you will see an arrow saying insert screwdriver here to release. Insert a screwdriver and lever the plastic of the base slightly apart from the plastic of the side. When you have done this for both sides the base should lift off.
3. Now lift the brush including the two end pieces straight up. It should just slide up. You will need to unhook the drive belt from the brush as you lift it out.
4.Pull of each end piece and clean the dust, lint, hair off the end piece and from inside the end of the brush.
5.Once clean, reinstall the end pieces on the brush. Hook the belt back over the brush to its original position and slide the brush back into the power bar.
6. Reinstall the base by hooking the tabs from the front of the base into the small openings on the power bar.then push the base down until it clicks back into place and the tabs are back in their original position. Reinstall the two screws you removed earlier.
Try holding down Cntrl-Alt-Delete If that dosen't do it, and it's locked up, you should be able to pull the battery with minimal if any risk Profile settings must be set in administrator mode. Try booting in safe mode
I threw the mitsubishi VHS recorder under a bus, just like ' YOU CHANGE , CHANGE ,CHANGE FOR MY SAKE'S' grandma, and invested in a new DVD recorder, 2 yr g'tee and latest tech. GODDAM A--- well old grandma and anyone or anything else that gets in my manical lust for power. CHANGE EVERYTHING FOR ME, ME ME, ER UM US US US.
For replacing the nuptune boots, I belive these are all of the steps. First, take the 2 phillips screws out of the door hinges. You should be able to lift slightly on the door and pull it towards you to remove it. Also remove the 2 phillips screws straight across from them. This will let your front panel come of (grasp up top and twist slightly to get it off the clips. Lower the front down and you can remove it from the washer and set it aside. Remove the 4 phillips screws from your soap/ fab softner dispenser. Next, remove the 2 5/16 screws that hold the top on to the front of the washer.
To remove the boot, first, pull the front part of the boot towards you. It will actually pull off without much effort. On the bottom (depending on model) there will be a tube at the bottom of the boot that is either stoppered up or connected to a black hose. Squeeze the green clamp to remove the hose if it does have one. To take of the back half of the boot, we're back up top. Lift the top of the machine (you may want someone to hold it or just slide the machine far enough forward the top can stand up by itself). You will see a large spring connected to what looks like a piece of cable coated in clear plastic. Pull the cable towards the front by the spring. It will quickly contract.
Reinstalation time. Take your new boot and install the back half. As you work the boot on, you will see some triangles all the way around to help you line it up correctly. Once it is on, it's time to re-clamp. This is the tough part. Typically what I do, is I make sure the cable is wrapped around the boot from the bottom with the clips at the top. (there is a nice notch for it to fit into) Next I take one side of the spring and attach it to the clip on the cable making sure that the hook side of the spring points up. Now, grab the clip on the cable (without the spring attached) with a pair pf pliers. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the spring. Now I stretch the two of them together. This will not be easy and the spring will be under some tension. Once the spring is on the clip, lower the lid. (there will be a black wire harness on the right hand side that needs to be tucked back into place for the lid to close properly. Screw the lid down. Re-connect the hose at the bottom of the boot if your machine was equiped with one. Push the front part of your boot back on. Put your door back on the clips where it sits. Lift slightly on the door and swing it closed. Run a test cycle (fill, tumble and drain) while you are standing there to check for leaks. Once you have verified there are no leaks, replace the front panel and your screws. If you run into troubles, message me back.
check the condition of the pinch roller. a bad pinch roller can cause this problem - a tape plays for several minutes, then has problems. what happens is the tape slowly moves up or down on the roller instead of traveling in a straight path. this is caused by the roller becoming worn or glazed and not being able to provide traction to pull the tape through.
With the DVR up and operating well I would lift up one corner about 1/2 inch and drop it to see if that causes it to malfunction. If it does, then you likely have one or more bad solder connections inside that need repair. If no change is noted, then it could possibly be defective capacitors or a voltage regulator going bad on you. There is also a possibility that it could be a worn recepticle the unit is plugged into, as a power interruption may be all it needs to reboot.