NO VOLTS OUT

Supply voltage 120Vac, 1.5kW power in operation

Most likely:
If it is a regular rhythm, look at your converter. The converter changes 120vac to 12vdc. Your interior light are 12v. A failing converter will cycle like that. Probably in the diode array and not servicable. I recommend one of the multi-stage converters. More $$$ but worth it. An alternator (on the engine) can do the same thing if the engine was running.

If irregular, it is varying loads on the power feed. Not much you can do about it except change where you hook up.

Check in your unit for a switch on side wall or near ceiling for selecting which AC unit gets power. Should be front, back, or both. Usually black knob to turn. Sounds like 12 volt power getting to it that tells it what to do, but also need to switch over to allow 120VAC power to actually supply power to it for running fan, compressor etc. Be sure to check all breakers in panel as well. You will probably not be able to run both at same time unless plugged in to 50amp or plugged in to 30amp, and generator running as well. I'm thinking a 94 only has 30amp power cable anyway.

is that 165 Volts AC or DC? Try to reset the logic. Unplug the UPS from the wall and disconnect the batteries. Push the "On Button" The LED's may flash. This is resetting the logic. This migh help. This should be 120VAC in and 120VAC out. Please give me an update.

make sure the UPS is off when you connect the battery and make sure the polarity is correct. Look for the signs on the casing. Check the other batteries to see if they are connected in serial or parallel. Should be in series if it is a mains voltage UPS from 12v batteries so the negative of one goes to the positive of another and they daisy-chain together

The RM2652 is rated at 120VAC @ 2.7 amps.

Hey Paul, it's most likely a wiring problem. There is one wire designated for just the running lights. What type of plug does the truck have? Probably 6 or 7 way (6 or 7 wire). You can check the plug-in at the truck with a multi-meter to see if there's power at that point. If there is, then the problem is somewhere from the trailer plug to the lights on the trailer. If you have a 7 way plug, the center plug is for aux. power (back up lights on what you pull, if equipped). One wire is power to the camper battery for a breakaway switch, one for left turn and stop, one for right turn and stop, a ground wire, one for running lights, and one for trailer brakes. To determine what wire does what, 1st with meter check volts of all wires w/ truck and trailer hooked up, truck running, power wire to battery for breakaway should show voltage if equipped w/ a trickle charge, brake wire will show low voltage, approx. 2 volts, apply brakes and should go up to approx. 12 volts, put on L turn signal, meter should go up and down, as power to blinker pulses on and off, do the same to determine which is the R turn signal (put foot on truck brakes will show voltage to brake lights AND brakes, continue w/ process of elimination to determine which is running lights, and exactly where power is not going.

To flash the excitor circuit on a coleman ( the generator is built by generac) you need a 12 volt battery. You quickly apply 12 volts via your 120vac recepticals. NO MORE THAN ONE OR TWO SECONDS! Then check you ac voltage. Most of the time the brushes are burnt up when voltage is low. Check the brushes first. You can access them by taking the end cap off of the generator via two to four screws. The brush holder is easy to spot, two wires leading to the front of the amature. Hope this solves your problem.

I reccomend LED bateries as they last longer and are very sufficient

If your drive motor is turning, but your timer and heating circuits are not working, it sounds like you could be missing one leg of your 220 service. The dryer timer and heating circuits utilize the full 220 from the receptacle, while the drive motor only uses 120 VAC. Unplug your dryer and check the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240 VAC across the two hot leads (these are the two large slots). The wires are BLACK - L1 & RED - L2. If you only read 120, check each slot to the NEUTRAL slot (white wire) to determine which one is missing. Chances are, you may have a break in the L2 (red wire) line. Here's the wiring scheme depending in which type of power cord you may have:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Please doublecheck and let me know. If your source voltage is correct, perform continuity checks from the end of the power cord to the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Inspect for any burned or broken wires. If you are not able to isolate a problem at this point, please post back and let me know. I can assist you further. I hope this helps.