Question about Black & Decker (050876530606)

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Black & Decker Coffee Maker DE755B--Thermal Fuse

The fuse that controls the heating element is blown. It has several numbers
36TMHO1
56C223
L150-15c
S0630

Do you know where I can purchase the fuse. I tried Radio Shack

Thanks

John

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  • 2 more comments 
  • Craig Czar Dec 03, 2007

    I've got two that are bad, same problem. I think it is caused by pouring water in when the unit is on and the heater is hot. I need two and they are spot soldered on (hi temp).

  • jgreeks Jan 06, 2008

    Black & Decker 12 Cup Coffee Maker DE755B

    Question
    The thermostat is blown. The numbers on it are
    36TMHO1 560223 L150-15C SO635

    Do you know where can I purchase this part (locally in Dallas if
    possible).
    I troubleshooted the problem down to this thermal switch, and, after
    shorting across it for a few seconds, caused the unit to warm up and work
    again.
    I'm willing to pay a few bucks for it, but a whole new coffee maker costs less than some quotes I've been getting.

    Thank you,

    Jerry

  • John61 Jan 27, 2008

    Thanks everyone, I even tried Emerson Electric and they had a thermostat but would not sell only "one"---fifty -"Yes". Eventually I bought a new Proctor Sylex sp? for $12.00 at Sears

  • mailboxtom Mar 16, 2009

    I have the same black and decker coffee maker and it quit working one month after buying it. No heat=no brewing. It seems right in line with all other black and decker products I've had experience with... it doesn't last very long. Black and Decker should change their name to Junk and Decker.

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Hi, the actual part you are talking about is not the heat fuse but the heat relay.

I have the same coffee pot, it 'died' on me and I was able to fix it. I actually had a bad relay AND a bad fuse. Here is what I did to get it working again WITHOUT purchasing any new parts and still keeping things SAFE.

Fist, unplug it! Remove the bottom cover ( you may need a special screwdriver for one of the screws, I had to file a notch in an old flat head ).

Unscrew the nut that connects the element to a bracket and to the plate. Remove the parts and set aside.

First thing you need to check is to see if it one ( or both ) of the actual fuses are burnt out. There is a wire that goes from the relay ( white ceramic cylinder ) to the heating element ( thick aluminum loop ), this wire has an extra sheath on it. Under this sheath there are 2 heat fuses in series. Check these fuses to see if one or both are burnt out. One of mine was. If both of yours are burnt out, you will need to order new ones ( see a post here ), if only one is out, you can do what I did. Using 2 pairs of needle nose pliers, I carefully loosened the crimping on both sides of the burnt out fuse and removed it. Using the same crimping I attached the remaining good fuse to the wire. Make sure you now have continuity from the output of the relay to the element.

The relay is the round ceramic thing with an aluminum "cap". It is attached to the heating element via a small black clip. Put an ohm meeter across this piece, if you have continuity, the contacts are probably welded shut, which is why your fuse blew. If not, the likely cause it, the contacts are burnt. Either way the fix is the same.

At the base of this relay there is a small lip. I used a small file to make this lip thin in one spot, then I carefully peeled it off all the way around. There is a crease right before the lip ( the part of the cap closest to the wires side of the relay ) and the lip peeled away nicely along this crease without damaging the cap itself. You can now remove the cap part and see the relay workings underneath. Be very careful when you remove the cap. Under the cap is a black piece of some kind of rubber with a tiny white piece of plastic in the middle. Don't lose these.

Now using an old toothbrush and some acetone clean the relay contacts and carefully free them if they are welded shut. Now use a small piece of fine sandpaper to clean up both of the contacts. Check the unit with a ohm meter, and if you have continuity, this part is done.

Now that you have peeled the lip off the relay, the pressure of the clip is required to hold it together. Carefully reassemble the relay ( don't forget the little white piece ) and while holding it together, against the spot on the element you removed it from, slide the clip on and back into place. Using the ohm meter again, check that every thing is connected as it should. With the switch on ( you DID unplug it, RIGHT? ) you should have continuity all the way from the plug to the heating element. If all is well put it back together and make some coffee.

I had some extra thermal grease laying around, so I cleaned of the old stuff and put some new on before reassembling ( where the element contacts the burner plate ). This probably not necessary, but not a bad idea either.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • broomfieldto Aug 29, 2011

    Perfect repair thank you

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Besneatte: Bravo....nice analysis and repair.

Using a voltmeter, I traced out where the 120 volt supply was broken in the heating coil circuit.

It was right at the sensor (it is there to break the circuit if the coil gets to hot and then turn the current back on when it cools).

Unfortunately, I destroyed the aluminum cap taking it off and almost lost the tiny white plunger). However, I cleaned the relay with fine sandpaper and put it back together (minus the cap). With some dexterity, I managed to refit the sensor with the clamping clip back onto the coil.

All working again.

Since my thermal fuses were OK the failure within the sensor was it's realy contacts not making a the circuit (e.g. pitted, dirty etc.). I note that since the 2 thermal fuses are series connected for redundancy (e.g. if 1 fails to open on over temperature, hopefully the other one will).

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • harrynsally Sep 30, 2009

    Couple of more comments.

    The above repair is not for the faint of heart and requires dexterity the ability to skills in electrical troubleshooting (use of multimeter).

    The ceramic sensor is a thermal switch and not an electrically operated relay.

    Be very careful to note how the internal pieces go back together (e.g. order and direction of surfaces) for it to operate properly when repaired.

    When the sensor is cold, it will pass current (the switch contacts are closed) and when it is hot, the domed metal dia-fram changes shape and pushes the small white plastic plunger down, opening the switch and circuit).


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I took the device apart and it is a thermostat switch. The contacts were burnt but closed and no continuity. The contacts were fried from high current. I did a search and one guy had a wire harness for a similar B&D coffee maker, I asked and he replied that our thermostat and/or wiring harness was not available. To keep this problem from happening on our present B&D Coffee Maker I shut it offf when I make another pot so the thermostat does not flash closed from the cold water. The high current is handled by the relay on the circuit board and the delicate contacts don't arc when closing. Lesson learned.

Craig

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

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Http://www.alliedelec.com/search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=935-0147&R=935%2D0147&sid=479BC9803385E17F

thermal cutoff fuses are rated by temp.

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

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The problem with most all coffee makers is the thermal switch that at abt 400 deg f opens and allows the heater to cool closing the contacts cycling over and over. The current is about 10 amps and eventually the contacts weld closed and bingo the heat rises and blows the thermal fuse. I am working a design that will transfer this load from the thermal sw to a relay capable of handling the current.It's on the drawing board folks and waiting for a test ckt . The thermal fuses are available at Radio Shack.

Posted on Nov 28, 2010

  • technicrat Nov 29, 2010

    This is the schematic of the mod. It has been bench tested and working.

  • technicrat Dec 01, 2010

    There Is an error on the schematic the wire going from the relay NO contact should go to the Common contact. Sorry about that.

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