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First thin I would try is to check your thermal fuse for continuity with a ohm meter with the wires removed from the fuse and the dryer unplugged. Its located on the tunnel that in cases the heating element. Here is the part in case you find it bad.
make sure you have the required 240 volts to the unit,then check the high-limit and cycling thermostat(s) on the element case and make sure you have good air flow through out the unit,if its plugged with lint air won't flow and it won't dry right
1. No power to the dryer Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.
2. Heating element A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Have someone check to be sure you have 240 volts to the plug. The dryer will run on 120 volts but must have 240 volts to the heating unit. If you 240 volts you probably need a heating element or control.
Your heating element is going out. If your dryer is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer and let them know what's going on. They should send you a replacement part, or should send a technician to fix it.
I had a similar problem years back. It was the ignitor. The ignitor is a ceramic like piece that heats up (glows red) that ignites the gas. Typically when that goes, you will see some white residue build up where it cracked, thus breaking the electrical connection. This thing works like a heating element on an electric stove, but rougher looking.
The part was about $30 at my local parts store. I bought an extra one just in case so I have it on hand. I installed it with common tools.
You can check it to see if you lost connection by using a volt meter.
Check to make sure that you have the proper voltage running to the dryer first. Next you may have a problem with your heating element or with your thermal fuse. Get your dryer opened up so you can see your heating element. Run the dryer and if you see the heating element come on and then turn right back off again then you have a bad thermal fuse. If it doesn't come on at all though then the heating element is bad. Both parts can be picked up at your local appliance repair shop. Just make sure to unplug the dryer before replacing the part. If you have any other questions let me know and let me know if this was helpful for you. Good luck.
I have a Maytag Atlantis Gas Dryer that will turn on, rotate, but will not get hot and dry the clothes. A load of clothes in the afternoon, didn’t dry, tried again but didn’t dry – went to bed after putting on auto dry - next morning the dryer was still rotating and didn’t turn off. No hot air – only cold air.