SOURCE: LG Intello washing machine, model: WD12235 Front Load
Why dont you people read the user's manual? You wil learn abt your machine, to a certain extent. Try "dry" & "spin" together for a few seconds. This is the child lock display.
Or press "end of cycle" for over 5 seconds. Works for other machines...............And please rate me if helped................
SOURCE: washing machine drains, wont spin, making clicking
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
If
the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the
washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is
inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you
have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to
the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
The
motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a
small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber
and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the
transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails.
You may need to replace it.
A
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
The
drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor.
For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and
draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one
direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you
need to replace the entire motor.
The
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
SOURCE: LG Turbo drum washing machine
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
'de' stands for Door Error. There is likely to be a problem with either the door solenoid/lock or the 'door closed' sensor. Both require a service engineer's attention I suggest ;-0(
Good luck,
John C
SOURCE: Washing machine WDI 12C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Testimonial: "Spot on. Drained the system cleared the filter of 3 £1 coins, 1 safety pin and 6 collar tips. And all this for free. 20 minutes job done. "
SOURCE: My washing machine LG Turbo
My LG has a magnet on the lip of the door flap. This magnet sits behind a flimsy little plastic clip that is bound to break off after a while. Look for the magnet inside your drum - it will stick to the walls of the drum. Stick it back on with masking tape or glue. Simple cure for a sloppy design!
It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. The fault specified seems an over load or over current in the motor. So remove motor and check to confirm.Make sure there is no jamming of the aggitator or the drive, and too much of load. Power off and reset.
Thank you for using fixya.
LG error codes
http://lgknowledgebase.com/kb/index.php?View=entry&EntryID=6333
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