I have wired up my amp and bass box to the head unit, but when i turn it on all my bass box keeps doing is thumping even if there is no music playin. everything to my knowlage is wired up correctly but i can't see why it is doing that. my bass box is bridged, but i can't see how that would have anything to do with that. hope you can help many thanks
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Re: The bass box
Remove the Audio inputs from the bass box to see if the thump is coming from the Audio input. Of course do this with everything turned on. What we are trying to figure out is where the thump is originating from. If the bass box does not thump when the audio inputs are disconnected, the thump is coming from somehwere between the bass box and the circuits inside the head unit.
If you still have the thump after the Audio input wires are disconnected, then your bass box's amplifier has noise problem. You might try getting a noise filter from best buy to put on the power supply feeding the bass box.
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Your description is not very clear but my guess is that the output from the RCA connector on the head unit (receiver) is low level and intended to be connected to an amplifier input. Apparently the 3.5 mm "jack" (plug) connects something to the RCA input of the amp and that works.
1) Understand the basics of all car stereo systems. A car stereo system consists of 4 main components and the wiring that connects them. These are the head unit, the main speakers, optional amplifiers and the subwoofers, which are also optional but generally considered a necessary part of any good system.
2) Know that the core of any car stereo is the head unit, which is the cassette or CD player that goes in the dash. All the other components are connected to the head unit by at least one pair of wires.
3) Know about car speakers. The main speakers are usually 2 in the front and 2 in the back, although with what are known as component speakers, each speaker is broken down into two speakers: one for the highs and one for the bass. Each speaker or speaker set (known as a channel) connects to the head unit via a pair of wires. Generally if you are installing a new head unit you want to install new speakers.
4) Know about amplifiers. Amplifiers provide extra power to your speakers and/or extra channels of power for additional speakers. The most common use for an amplifier (amp) is to power subwoofers. The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire. This article assumes the use of a single amplifier connected to a pair of subwoofers. If you do not have these components simply ignore the steps specific to the amp, doing so will not affect the rest of your installation.
5) Know about subwoofers. Subwoofers are part of any good stereo system. They provide the deep bass that small speakers cannot achieve. Subwoofers are connected to the amplifier which can usually be mounted right to the subwoofer box. If you do not have subwoofers you can simply ignore the steps specific to them.
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Your head unit is 50 watts X 4 channel maximum power and 21 watts RMS so it's possible that all you need is more power to the speakers. But even 21 watts RMS should be enough for normal speakers. Before investing in an amp, I'd check the speakers and their wiring. Measure the impedance (resistance) at the head unit side to see if they match up.
You either have a bad ground from your amp to the vehicle or a problem with the amp. Where is the amp grounded? Do not ground an amp to a seat bolt or side panel on any vehicle. The weld points on the car itself cause issue with ground. Take the ground wire directly thru the bottom panel (floor) Check befor you drill! don't hit a wire/fuel line, etc. That will give you a solid ground. Keep your ground wire length to a minimum. 18" or less, and use the same gauge wire for ground as you do for power. Hope this helps
I would hazard to guess that you are running a speaker "ohm load" that
is less than 4 ohms per channel. Or 8 ohms if you are running in
bridged mode. You should NEVER blow a fuse. Re-check all your
connections. Your "cutting out when the headlights are on"
problem is due to low battery voltage to the amp. Use bigger wire
on both your +12 lead and your ground lead. Make sure your
battery to chassis ground lead is even bigger than your amps power
lead. Make sure your amps ground lead is big, beefy, and short.
And get a boost capacitor. When you have a huge amp in the trunk,
you must treat it as if you are trying to run your engine starter from
the trunk when it comes to the size of your hot wire and ground wire.
first check that the subwoofer function on the actual head unit is turned up,second check that the gain on the amp is at bout half way then check that it is on a lp (low pass setting)
then check that the boost on the amp is turned up.
please leave feedback.
Connect the 2 gage to the battery thru at least s 50 amp fuse, then connect the capacitor in line before the amps. Then run the 2 gage to a connector/splitter block and run 4 gage leads to each amp. You also will need at least 4 gage ground leads from each amp to a body grounded bolt or screw. You need to run a quality set of speaker leads from the head unit to the amps. The speakers will need separate leads from the amp to each speaker.You will need to try some different combinations to get the sound and bass you want. You want to be able to fade from front to rear and control everything thru the head unit. Use a hole saw to cut a 2 to 3 inch diameter hole in the side of the speaker box for a port to get a better punch from the sub. Hope this helps some....