What kind of parts are insde the chain sprket cover where the cluth line enters the case . My cluth line is tight not engageing. I looked at pictures on the ent apartently im missing like a a piece of threated rod of some sort some one help

This located inside the chain cover and holds the chain tight against the guides go to rockauto.Com and look up your vehicle and then the parts in engine section so you can see what they look like ok

inspect for worn components from output of transfer case to front diff input. If everything is tight and solid from those two points, everything else points to being transfercase internals. Make sure your actuator isn't faulty causing a "4x4 to 2x4 shift on/off"

Sounds like the chain brake was set when you took the cover off. You need to disengage the chain brake (release it) so the round spindle will fit inside. Look for the two parts (one on cover, one on saw) that match up at the base of the chain brake. You won't be able to fit the whole cover on, but if you can line up where the metal triangular gear engages the chain brake, you can give it a snap to disengage it. What I have done in the past is to line up the two parts and push down on the top of the cover where they meet so as much of the gear is in the chain brake release as possible ( I put a knee on it ) and then give a snap to release it. Be careful though, because the cover part is plastic and you don't want to strip that part of the chain brake assembly. Good luck.

Sounds like the cover was taken off with the brake on. On some of the Huskies, the brake is engaged with a three-part metal piece that fits into a corresponding shaped part on the cover and is engaged with a firm click on or off. The piece looks a little like the old nuclear bomb shelter signs, like three pie wedges with the narrow parts meeting in the middle. Be careful not to strip the plastic part when trying to marry these two sections together or you will be buying a new cover. I lined up both parts, made sure it was in as far as possible, put a knee on it, and snapped the chain brake off. This opened the band, and it fit once again. Note: I did this correctly the second time it happened to me. The first time resulted in a brand new pretty cover for my used saw because I tried forcing it and stripped the plastic part it the metal piece fits into. Good luck.

This design has no tensioner. Check the sprockets for wear on the tips--especially the crank sprocket. With the cover off, turn the crankshaft with a socket and see how close the chain comes to slipping backward on the sprocket. There are complete replacement procedures at AutoZone.com, which I will try to paste in below.

3.3L and 3.8L Engines

See Figure 18



Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines

1. If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the coolant.
2. Remove the timing chain case cover. For more information, refer to the Front Timing Cover and Seal procedure, earlier in this section.
3. Remove the camshaft gear attaching cup washer and remove the timing chain with both gears attached. Remove the timing chain snubber.

To install:

1. Assemble the timing chain and gears.
2. Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the key way locations of the gears.
3. Slide both gears over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to confirm alignment.
4. Install the cup washer and camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
5. Check camshaft end-play. The specification with a new plate is 0.002-0.006 in. (0.051-0.052mm) and 0.002-0.010 in. (0.51-0.254mm) with a used plate. Replace the thrust plate if not within specifications.
6. Install the timing chain snubber.
7. Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket mating surfaces.
8. Install new O-rings to the block.
9. Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover. The seal must be removed from the cover when installing to ensure proper oil pump engagement.
10. Using a new gasket, install the chain case cover to the engine.
11. Make certain that the oil pump is engaged onto the crankshaft before proceeding, or severe engine damage will result. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
12. Use tool C-4992, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft oil seal. Install the crankshaft pulley using a 5.9 in. suitable bolt and thrust bearing and washer plate L-4524, or equivalent. Make sure the pulley bottoms out on the crankshaft seal diameter. Install the bolt and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
13. Install all other parts removed during the chain case cover removal procedure and fill the engine with oil.
14. Connect the negative battery cable, road test the vehicle and check for leaks.

Assuming that you have a fueled engine saw instead of an electric type, remove the drive cover after releasing the chain brake and backing off CCW the chain adjuster screw. Remove the bar/chain and clean the assortment of parts including the small oil passages that are in the drive end of the bar. Wash out the interior of the clutch assembly with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry. Start the engine without the bar/chain and watch for oil oozing out of a small port in the side of the engine case. If nothing, check the oil pump, lines, and valve/filter within the oil tank. If ok, re-assemble the bar, then the chain over the sprocket and out over the bar. Extend the bar out to tighten the chain, and fit the cover to the saw. Tighten the fasteners finger tight, then adjust the chain up to the lower bar edge (the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run) but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the fasteners and recheck chain tension. Check chain oiling by running the bar tip at speed near a piece of cardboard for a few moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the board. Hope this helps!

Remove the bar and chain from the saw. Take these parts to a saw servicing dealer who can match the bar and chain. Be sure to clean the area where the bar mounts. Run the saw for a few moments--the oil port in the side of the case should ooze out oil. Install the bar first, then thread the chain onto the sprocket, then work it over the bar. Pull the bar out until the chain is fairly tight, then fit the cover, but leave the mounting nut(s) finger tight. Turn the chain adjuster until the chain doesn't droop from the bar, but still be able to turn the chain by hand. Tight the mounting nut(s) and recheck tension. Run the saw at full speed with the tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Hope this helps!

remove side cover of chain, loosen bar nut, there is a screw on the front of the saw under the sawdust and oil. Turning it one way tightens the bar. The other way loosens it. Loosen it til you get the chain back on, then tighten it til there is about 1/2" slack in the bottom of the chain between it and the bar. By the By, semi tighten the nut before any major adjustments, then adjust the chain to above and tighten bar nut. You should be set to go. BE CAREFUL! Dont forget personal safety!!!

the easiest way i have found to put the cover back on is to take the clutch drum off.now youn can put the cover on.reset the brake and reinstall the clutch drum.the brake loop gets in the way any other way.hope this helped,if not let me know and we can try something different.......

this is on the chain side of the bike, isn't it? i hope you always made damned sure your chain wasnt too tight when you adjusted it... i doubt this would be a problem on the wee, but on my gs1150, i had an offset sprocket so the chain would clear the larger gsxr rear tire i had i can't remember which size the tire was(185?), but my front sprocket was offset 3/8. well, the chain was too tight on that bike and the output shaft toasted the bearing, and that made some neat damage to my engine cases, the symptom i got was lots of smoke coming from there, oh that and the oil leak that looked a lot liek what you describe. however, greywolf knows the strom way better than me and his suggestion of the clutch pushrod seal makes sense. on the gs, the clutch is on the opposite side from the sprocket, so it's an impossibility. so check the clutch seal, also check your output bearing seal. dont fret my horror story, as i said, unlikely on a strom, and never happened on a gs1150 either, only happened because: A- too tight a chain B- offset sprocket.