Lights on, and sometimes, when I'm ready to beat the thing down, it will start working. That was until today. It no longer wants to play. So, any ideas??
I know there is power, and well, that's about it.
Help would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Dishwasher won't start...
Most common fault is door switch. Do the lights stay on with the door opened? If so, this may be the problem. Otherwise may be the timer switch or the water valve. If it's the water valve the pump should come on when the timer knob is turned and the drain cycle is actuated. Othwise it's probably the door switch or the timer. If it was intermittant and banging on it made it work before it may just be a loose connection.
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Don't know the model but here are things to check prior to calling your vendor for service:
* Plugged in? No lights? Check if GFRI outlet is tripped out.
* Is it turned on and ready light lit? Some (CWTF's etc.) have a green or read ready lamp that lights up when the brewer is hot and ready to brew.
* No Ready light after 15-20 mins of being plugged in? Cheuck the back of unit for a toggle switch (or rocker switch). Check if it's on. Some units may say "Vacation". It should be on normal or brew.
* Brewing works but not hot. Was the ready light on when you started the brew? You have to wait till it's lit. Still not hot? Then call for service. The heater, High limit, Thermal fuse,Thermostat needs to be checked.
* If this is a new unit then be sure to turn on the thermostat as it comes from the MFR in the off position.
* Final, Call your vendor to be safe.
push down and up on your subs and see if they make a starching noise, if they do then they are blown. take a test light to the amp, on the power and the remote and see if it lights up. if it does then turn the amp down and with a small speaker plug it in to the speaker outs on the amp and see if it plays if not then your amp is bad.
Hello chuck529, the first thing I notice is the age of your truck. A Free repair beats doing it yourself, see if you still have Warranty and make it Ford's problem.
If you have to work on this yourself, go to an autoparts store and get a Brakelight switch. Replacing this part is hoping for the best as the Master cylinder may not be fully returning to its seated postion. Again with a Warranty, I would strongly suggest to the Dealer to test the pressure on the Master cylinder to see if the Master C is fully releasing.
The MFS, multifunction switch is the turn signal stalk. All of your signal lights go through it. If you have a Warranty, you are better off letting the Dealer replace it to fix your lights. It is in the $100 range. If you have to fix this yourself, sometimes you can cycle the Hazard button on top of the steering column and force the contacts to work a little longer. Do this about a dozen times. But I can tell you it is failing and a free Warranty part is a better idea.
There are also plastic switches under the dash and they connect with the Brake levers. Sometimes feet hit them and crack or break them or misalign them.
The gas gauge problem can be a ground problem or a connector at the tank. It can also be a Warranty fix.
I hope my solution is very helpful to you. Would be interested in how this turns out.
How are you powering the camcorder ? Many will not transfer videos if battery powered, since the battery may fail. Try again with the camcorder mains powered, see if that helps. Have you cleaned the heads with a cotton bud and a little IPA ?