I have a Laverda 750 GTL 1975, I ned the correct tyres to replace the original ones. I am restoring the machine to show standard for next year. Also can you provide a Laverda specialist near Huntingdon in Cambridgeshire.

Not a guru on Bertini but most strollers with pneumatic tires use standard tyres and tubes as used on kiddy bikes. I get tyres for Bugaboo's at my local K Mart. The size should be on the side wall of the tyre.

The most common complaints are the poor gas mileage, weak electric starter, not as fast off the line as the Japanese bikes, slower top end speed, top heavy and not a good commuter bike. Additionally, dealers are few and far between. Install new spark plugs, clean the air filter, clean or at least drain the carbs to remove any water in the float bowls. Do a compression check to see if the valves need to be re-seated.

All late 60's and 70's Laverda 750 twins are negative earth.
Buy the 'Green Book' ISBN-13:
978-0-9796891-0-9 - do not pay more than the cover price inc post.
For parts try Slaters or Motal in the UK. I buy from Laverda Paradies in Germany, does what it says on the tin - every time.
http://www.laverda-paradies.de
For info try http://www.laverdamania.net/menugb.htm and
http://www.iloc.co.uk/

Laverda specialists such as Wolfgang Haerter; OCT or Andy Wagner/Laverda Paradies can help. Some enterprising owners have replaced the electronic guts with an aftermarket unit whilst retaining the original housing.
There are a couple of possible causes to consider - duff electronic revcounter or aftermarket (DMC) electronic ignition fitted which needs a filter fitting to the revcounter wiring - again, the latter is obtainable from Laverda specialists. Check out Laverda forums such as www.laverdapedia.com/forum for more info (use the search facility)

it had an incorrect seat on it and I would like to fit a bumstop style seat to the bike. It is different (slightly wider) than the later bikes. If anyody could help (even a loaner pan I could make a copy of)it would be appreciated. By the way I have some stuff from a crashed early 750GT that I have no use for and is available for trade or cheap. I don't have any bodyworkmainly forks. rear wheel airbox, that type stuff.,My memory of the 69 American Eagle is that it should have a locally made fibreglass tank, as that model was only a dressup bike done by Mr Mcormick of Continental Motorcycles. (he also badged up a British made moto crosser as an American Eagle, was it a Sprite or maybe and AJS Stormer) should be a slabby thing not unlike a cofin shape. Lance Weil of Ricky Racer had a couple a few years back and he is very near to you phone 1-800 Laverda, try him you never know.The seat should be the same width as the proper Laverda's (I think) It was only the 650 (42 in number) and the first 750 (the remaining batch up to 100) so another 58 that had the very first type chassis,quite a bit different in the way the tubes drop down to the swingarm pivot, or am I getting too much fuzz into the old grey matter, I could be wrong.,,,

Saddle Bags and a tank bag. I use RKA products which are excellent and have been using the same ones for a few years.,

and was wondering if other Zane riders have a view on what's good/not good? I'm looking for something most suitable for fast winding road use rather than mainly track. I had Dunlop 207's on mine and recently switched to Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa SC 2's. The the SC's are amazing,,

According to the repair guide the year 69 had frame numbers from 1650 to 2800 but this includes GT. The frame is different from SF frames,

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

800Kms on the clock ( It still has the original tyres ). It has never been registered and the Kms were largely done with trade plates from a South Australian bike shop in the 70's before being relegated to the back of the store. The person I bought it from had it 9 years and did little with it. I am not restoring but trying to fix the things needed to get it right and as close to original as possible.I need to remove the carbs to clean them properly. I am not sure which way the come out. It seems like I will ruin the old connection rubbers if I keep going the way that I am. What is the go? Also did this model have metal spark plug caps and is there anyone out there with the original fuel hose set up for sale? RegardsI have to say getting the carbs out on the 900 is a bit of a pig. The rubbers tend to go hard too. Not sure if this is exactly the same as on the 750 but what you can do is take out the battery disconnect the bits from the battery try and remove that, take out the air filter and its rubbers and then you have room to get the carbs back. Alternatively, if you want to get them off without taking the air box out, remove the rubbers between the air box and carbs first - try and wriggle them back into the air box - you can rescue them later from the other side (take the air filter out). This should give you enough room too. Hope that helps!,,,