Fuji GX680

        But be sure to read the fine print. There are limitations
that you should be aware of.

Regards

 John S. Douglas                         Photographer & Webmaster
 http://www.darkroom-pro.com - http://www.darkroompro.net
     Formulas, Facts and Info on the Photographic Process
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On Sat, 02 Feb 2002 04:13:05 GMT, Pam Niedermayer

That's what insurance is for.

Pam



--
Pamela G. Niedermayer
Pinehill Softworks Inc.
600 W. 28th St., Suite 103
Austin, TX 78705
512-236-1677
http://www.pinehill.com

Thanks for advice.  According to Fuji Film web site, all repairs of GX680 appears
to need to be shipped to New Jersy.  I am a little apprehensive about shipping this
expensive camera and accessories this far, though.

Consider sending it to Fuji's professional camera repair department.  I had one
repaired once and the price was very reasonable and of course the work was
flawless.  
God Bless,

Don Allen
http://www.DonAllen.net
Photos + a large set of photo links including my PHOTO BOOK LIST - NOW WITH
BOOK REVIEWS!!!!

Check if all tilt and shift controls are in their neutral positions (tilted
lens *may* account for the lack of sharpness...)
If they are -  get the camera to a *qualified* repair technician. The
focusing screen, the lens mount or the mirror may be misaligned, the
focusing mechanism may need adjustments, or the entire mirror box has been
moved (say, possible if the camera takes a hard fall...)  There is also a
possibility that the film magazine mount has been somehow moved, or that the
pressure plate in the magazine is busted.  In short - have the camera, all
magazines, viewfinders AND lenses checked by a pro Fuji repair person.

I have neither heard of, nor experienced the type of problems you are
reporting in many years of shooting catalog photos with the 680 Fuji.  To
the contrary - in terms of sharpness, contrast and the lack of internal
flare the lenses for Fuji 680 are second to none IMO.

Michael

Thanks a lot to all who responded to my posting.
Fuji GW680 is a kind of large-format camera except the film
size, and the construction is completely different from that of
Fuji 690 and accordingly uses lenses specifically designed for
it..   Because of its heavy weight it is practically impossible
to use it without putting it on a sturdy tripod.  I usually use
5 m electronic release cable.  So vibration should not be the
problem.
As Anthony Polson suggested, it is possible that the distance
between the lense and the focussing screen and that  for the
film plane may not be set correctly so that precise focussing
obtained on the screen is not transferred to the film plane when
the mirror is lifted.  There is practically no wiglling room for
how to place a focussing screen.  In my opinion, the mechanism
to hold a focussing screen on the camera body is not very firm,
perhaps a small sacrifice for quick change. I do not know,
however, if this causes discrepancy in focussing between the
screen and film plane.  I wonder if the mirror's rotating axis
might not be set or constructed correctly or if the mechanism to
hold the mirror at the precise position when it is lifted might
be loosened for some reason.
If anyone owns this camera and experienced problems which might
be ascribed to a mechanical construction such as above, please
tell me about it and how it is dealt.
Chiropter

I agree with all the other raves about Fuji lenses.
I've rented the 680 as well as a couple of 617's. I also own a 617 and a
GW690II. Fuji lenses are the breathtakingly sharp.

The problem lies elsewhere.

Rob

Have you checked the focus accuracy? A couple of ways to do this. One is to
put a ground glass on the film plane and check the focus on the focus
screen, then fire the shutter on bulb and check it at the film plane.
Another is to set up something like several cards at different distances
from the camera a few inches apart, then focus on the middel one and see if
the middle one is in focus on film.

Are you sure it's not camera shake somehow?

As far as the lenses, I have a fuji 6X9 65mm GSW and have cropped a 35mm
section from the center of the film and it's just as sharp if not sharper
than GOOD olympus zuiko prime lenses. I'd be shocked if it was the glass.

--

  Stephe

There are several possible reasons, included among which are:

1)  Your mirror needs re-setting by a competent repairer,

2)  Your focusing screen is incorrectly seated,

3)  Your eyesight is not what it used to be, <g>

4)  You are in the habit of using over-wide apertures that offer
    little depth of field to cover small errors in focusing,

5)  You are not able to hold the camera sufficiently steady (it is
    VERY heavy!) and/or you aren't using a tripod when you should,
    especially when using slower shutter speeds.

Try renting or borrowing a medium format AF SLR (Pentax, Contax,
Mamiya) and use it on a tripod making sure you locate carefully
the camera's focus point on the subject.  If you find that the
results are sharp you should address the problem areas I listed,
one by one, until you identify the problem.

I hope this is useful.  Good luck!

--
Best regards,
Anthony Polson