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Washer won't start after lid is shut, if i slam it, it works!

When i shut washer to wash it doesn't start, if I slam lid it works...
I shouldn't have to slam lid to work,is something blocking it?
thanks!
Debra

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  • grantrix Mar 18, 2009

    I'm in the same boat, i'm having to slam my lid shut to turn the washer on. It's getting harder and harder.

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  • 291 Answers

Sounds like your lid switch is loose ..look at the tab that sticks out of the lid and watch where it close's. inspect the switch see if it is loose or broke

Posted on Nov 29, 2007

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1 Answer

Lid lock broken can I overide?


Washer not starting Cycle:
I would have to slam the washer lid before the washer recognized the lid was shut.
What I did to fix:
1. Ref the link below for Schematics
http://blog.kennyluong.com/Tricking-A-Maytag-Bravos-Washer/
2. Looking at the Lid Lock section of the Schematic:
Place a jumper between pins 2 and 3 of J15
This engages the 1st switch (Lid Lock) so, I don't have to slam the lid anymore
3. Since my Lock switch (2nd switch), which is engaged with a magnetic, is working, my work is done.
If you find that your machine is still not starting the cycle, you will need to
replace the Lid Lock mechanism or ref the above link for temp bypass.

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Top loader washing machine - won't work unless I slam down the top door. Any suggestions? Thanks


I think it is in the lid switch. If the lid switch is malfunctioning on a maytag top loader it will not start washing. Probably by slamming the lid you are making the connection you need for the time being. It is located at the back underneath the lid in the middle. Follow the link and you will see and diagram and parts associated with your washer. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=A4910&productCategoryId=0153000&brandId=3048&modelName=MAYTAG-LAUNDRY&diagramPageId=00002&componentDescription=TOP COVER, CONSOLE & LID SWITCH

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Have to slam the lid


The same thing happened here. It turned out to be the lid switch. It can be accessed by taking off the back plate (behind the controls) by unscrewing three screws and two screw bolts -simple.

I removed the lid switch and tested it with an ohm meter - instructions are on this site. You should have continuity across machine-motor, as well as across machine -line. (These are labeled on the switch).

If you don't have a meter and you still want to see if that's the problem, after you have removed the lid switch, short the machine and line connectors, (you'll see these labeled on the lid switch so you'll be able to figure out which wires go with what) as well as shorting the machine and motor connectors. Both of these need to be shorted. That bypasses the switch and will activate the motor and controls.

That's what I did to confirm that it was all a "lid switch " problem. I ordered a lid switch from this site for $24.95 for the repair, and will use the "shorting process" to do a couple of loads of wash as I wait three days to get the switch. Good luck.

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