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Re: Compressor not kicking on
I can help there should be a blue connector on the bottom of the board that has 3 wires. They are labeled on the board as line, def, comp. Jump line to comp. Comp should come on. Let me know what happens
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Many residential refrigerator / freezers are designed to work at temperature considerably above above freezing. Most modern refrigerator / freezer have a single electric thermostat - located in the fresh food compartment. This lone thermostat will control the compressor to keep the fridge (fresh food) section at the desired temperature (usually between 34 - 38 degrees F). The freezer will get colder regardless of how cold it is already whenever the fridge thermostat turns the compressor on.
Now that you see how the thermostat works, let's look at what happens when the fridge is placed in an unheated space - like a garage. In winter time, the temperature can drop considerably below 38 degrees. If the outdoor temperature remains cold enough, for long enough - it will affect the thermostat in the fridge. The temperature inside the fridge could drop below 38 degrees, preventing the thermostat from telling the compressor to turn on. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer compartment slowly rises from the normal -10 to 0 F degrees. It will continue to rise until it is the same temperature as the fresh food compartment or until the thermostat in the fresh food compartment tells the compressor to turn on again. This means the freezer contents will thaw.
If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.
First determine if the compressor is kicking on and off. Normally you can get it to kick on by just changing the thermostat setting. If the compressor isn't kicking on then it could be the relay or the compressor.
NOTE: If you transported the unit in other than in a standing position, you should let it stand unplugged for several hours to let all the air bubbles to work themselves out.
If the compressor is not working and the unit has a electronic control board try and replace it.the other thing to check is the over load relay and the start ptc on the compressor. make sure there is power to the compressor.If it is still under warranty set it up for service and it will not cost you any money. you can put a 5 to 10 pound block of dry ice in the cabinet to keep things cold for about 24 hours until you get it running
First of all, before you do anything, clean the coils under the refrigerator. I couldn't tell you how many refrigerators I've 'fixed' that needed nothing more than the coils cleaned. Dirty coils can cause a multitude of problems, many of them with the exact same symptoms that would be expected when refrigerant components fail. Dirt is the #1 enemy of any refrigeration unit.
If that doesn't help, since both sides of the refrigerator get warm before the compressor kicks back on, I'd suspect the fresh food temperature control thermostat. Not an easy fix for the average homeowner unless you've got specific skills in appliance repair.
Before you do anything, try this. Turn the fresh food thermostat all the way up, the set the freezer setting at a higher than normal setting. The way the system works is that the fresh food thermometer turns the compressor on and off and the freezer control simply controls how much of the cold air from the freezer is diverted to the fresh food compartment.
If you turn the fresh food thermostat higher, the compressor will run longer and adjusting the freezer control to a higher setting will allow less cold air into the fresh food compartment, forcing the compressor to run longer in order to cool it to the thermostat setting.
If the settings have to be abnormally high, this is a workaround, rather than a fix. To get a permanent fix, you'll probably have to replace the fresh food control thermostat.
I hope this was helpful to you or to anyone reading it.
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator/freezer at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator/freezer is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator/freezer, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
Your refrigerator may be stuck in defrost cycle. I know it has a defrost timer part number 215846602 Most times they are located inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. Sometimes below fridge and behind kick plate. The thermostat could be defective also. You can check that by unplugging the refrigerator remove cover and checking continuity between the two male connections located on the rear side of thermostat control turned as cold as you can turn it. Or you can join the two wires together and plug refrigerator back in to see if compressor comes on. When you find the defrost time turn clockwise slowly until the refrigerator starts. If these don't work let me know and we will do some more test. Sea Breeze
Solution Found! The problem is when the temperature surrounding the
refrigerator in the garage falls to < 45 degrees, the thermostat
regulating the refrigerator will not call for the compressor to kick in
to provide cooling (it's temperature requirements are being met). Since
there is no demand, the compressor will not cycle, which is how the
freezer is kept cold, and the freezer eventually warms up to match the
refrigerator temperature. Frigidaire makes a "Cold Kit" that I ordered
and installed from RepairClinic.com for $22 (Item
#: 1037646; Description: Garage kit). It's basically a strip heater
that runs off the control power to warm the thermostat and causes the
compressor to cycle once to twice a day to keep the freezer frozen.
After installation, the refrigerator stays at 40-45 and the freezer
stays around 0 degrees.