I had this refig for 1 yr and 4 months. Last week I discovered the freezer ice colder, and refrig department warm last week. I checked it out, and found the bottom opening on the lower left side the coils were snow freezed up, and no cold air blowing from the left top vents. I checked the damper for operation, and it worked. Matter of fact, no air at all. I unplugged refrig ,and use a hair blow dryer to defrost the lines. After defrosting manually, started the refrig and worked correctly. Today, Tuesday,Nov.27,2007, the same problem. Refrig warm and no air blowing at all from the top left vent. I click the light button five times to put refrig in defrost mode. I heard the compressor kicked off. Waited an hour, same problem. I pulled the refrig out and checked inside behind refrig. No dust or anything frozen. I looked inside the refrig on lower left side inside vent holes, and coils snonwed as mentioned above. What could be causing this problem or what is the problem and how to fix?????? By the way, when things didn't work properly, I noticed the h20 dispenser didn't despense any water. I mean no water! I hope this is enough info to help me with my problem. I did the same thing(hair blower trick) like last week, and its working fine again.
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Re: Frigidaire side/side refri section warm
Oceanrunner, it looks like a couple of things might be going on: One is how much defrosting did you do. If it was a full defrost, you might have too many door openings going on. This causes condensation. Do a full defrost and then be sure the door is closed when not actually getting things in/out. Don't forget to check to see if your condenser coils are clean. If not, clean 'em! That may fix it.
It is possible that your defrost timer is defective but I think not based on your defrost cycle starting. It is possible that the defrost coil is bad. This means that you'll have to access the coil and check if for continuity. Typically, this is located with the coils and below them in the back of the freezer. One wire on each side. Unplug the box...Wiggle 'em to clear any corrosion... Unplug..If you've got a multimeter, check for about 100 ohms between the terminals...You can then turn the unit on and wait. See what happens. If frosting begins, actuate the defrost cycle. (Frosting should be even after about 5 minutes or so across they pipes. If the gas level is low, the frosting will not be even.)
Some cold water units run through the coils. If they get too cold...they freeze. This is caused by low gas or by frosting from other sources. Don't panic: this unit has an extended warranty on the sealed unit...the compressor and all that...for 5 years. That means the gas, too. Call your manufacturer for service.
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If your evaporator is not completely frosting over (top to bottom) this normally means the unit doesn't have a proper charge or the compressor can't pump all the freon as it needs to. I would check the charge, this should read "0", if less not enough, if higher than the compressor is failing. I hope this helps.
This is a very common issue, If the freezer compartment is cold and making ice the problem is simply airflow from the freezer into the refrigerated section. Typically when one senses the refrigerator is warm they max out the settings on both dials the thermostat with its 1-10 settings as well as off for the compressor. This controls the compressor and temperature. The additional setting or dial is for colder freezer or refrigerator as well , However it simply opens or closes a flapper door between the freezer and refrigerator boxes. When that dial or setting is maxed , it closes and makes the freezer colder, yet leaves the refrigerated section starved for sufficient airflow to maintain a cold box in the refrigerated section. Just set the dial that does not turn the compressor off to the middle setting. One can leave the thermostat that does control the compressor in the max setting , just not the colder freezer setting, If you notice colder isnt colder refrigerator, Its actually colder freezer, A common issue found on 25% of all refrigerator calls a simple setting adjustment. Its easy to think that maxing out the settings makes for a colder refrigerator, it doesnt, it makes a colder freezer and warm rerigeration section. If a freezer is making ice, theres nothing wrong with the unit other than airflow setting.
I had same issue this past week. Refrigerator up to 45 freezer up to 15. Ice would melt and then everything would get cold again. Ice formed on everything. Next thing you know it was warming up again. I knew the rubber seal on door flap that opens to let ice out warped during summer months because I keep it 78 in summer. Had that replaced today. Temperatures have gone back to normal and stayed ALL DAY (knock on wood). Check door flap seal sticking your hand up making sure you don't push in the water tab. You should be able to feel if it is warped/wavy like an old LP or not. Good Luck.
check that the evaporator fan motor ,located in freezer is working.it circulates the cold air.also check that the coils behind freezer back panel are not iced up,this would indicate a lack of defroting due to,timer,heating element,or bi-metal.lastly when the refrig is running those coils should get frost over them all,if not you may be low on refigerant
icemaker not working because to cold in freezer;water transfer tube frozen and will need to be deiced, but first must solve refrig. to cold, making freezer to cold, thermostat problem which is common it is a presure filled and in time can loose presure and will run colder, some have adjustment scew with arrows warmer or colder adust warmer and only turn a 1/4 turn or less until you get in middle of dail range. or replace thermostat. refrig. temp. should be 38 to 40 degrees frenhiet. freezer no colder then 0.
if your freezer can make ice and the ice is dry, the problem is simply air flow into the refig section. A very common cause for a service call that wasnt needed for reefers is the settings. One setting OFF 1-10 usually, operates the compressor. The remaining setting will say , for colder freezer or similar, It opens a little flapper door between the freezer and the fridge section. If you set that one to max or coldest freezer it will actually starve out the fridge section for air ,and you get a cold freezer and warmer box! It happens everytime someone has the problem , its too warm! they peg both controls to coldest! The compressor will coll the freezer sufficiently even if set to 1 and the fridge should be cool too if the setting isnt pegged to coldest setting thus closing down fridge air and making the freezer colder which isnt ever required!
try forcing the cycle by manually triggering the cycle a few times. Sometimes you can detach the trip arm or turn the tray by hand by disconnecting it from the gear. There may have been a switch bumped to turn it off or the switch somehow jammed. Maybe check for freeze-up. If there is water in it, it's going somewhere.
sounds like you have a defrosting iss\ue here, ther is aduct on the left sideof refig wall perhaps 3/4 the way down usually behind one of the crispers its frozen over with ice not allpwing fresh food air to properly circulate, l;ook to the bottom of your freezer on the back wall is there ice on the panel?? if so your not deforsting properly there satech sheet underthe kickplate showing basic wiring and trouble shoooting guide as well
The refrig side does not have a fan. only the freezer. Is that fan working??? you will hear it when the unit is running (and not in defrost) The clicking you hear is the Damper (a motorized door allowing more or less air to the refrig) opening or closing. Is there frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer??