I have 3 10" MTX thunder 5000s in one box. As is the box is wired with the power coming to the center speaker then each of the outer speakers have "jumper" wire connecting them to the center...I was thinking it would be better to wire them in series (or thats what i'm told its called) by going from the amp to a speaker then crossing the pos. and neg. to the next speaker and crossing once more to the last. Is this a good idea? Will it give me more sound out of my woofers without too much punishment to the amp? by the way is a pioneer 760w amp
Actually, the way they're wired they're already bridged in parallel. The way they're "jumpered" They all get the same amount of voltage and pull more current from your amp. If you wire them in series, each speaker only gets 1/3 the input voltage, and in turn, the entire circuit of 3 speakers uses less current from the amp, meaning less wattage. Having them wired in series will cause less wear and tear on your amp, but you'll not be pleased with the output. It'll be very weak. Try it. You'll notice the difference right away. The way they're wired is the way they're probably supposed to be from mtx, and the speakers probably have a higher resistance, which means they work best when bridged parallel in threes. Your amp is already taking all the punishment thease speakers can suck through it in this setup. If your amp is running cool, you shouldn't have any problems. Hope this helps.
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im guessing both speakers are 4 ohms ..mtx 4ohms and kicker dual 4ohms..now if your amp can go down to 1 ohm wiring the kicker dual coils in parallel (2ohms) and the mtx connected together (4ohms) should leave you with a final impedance between 1 and 2 ohms ...i suggest you use one or get another
Inspect speaker for loose wires/broken wires. Check inside box for loose connection. Blown fuse on amp. Ive literally pulled the wires out of the speaker. The little mesh ones from the terminal to the cone. Look for that. If you do find something broken or bad. remember you can call MTX and fix for a flat rate on most evrything they carry. Ive sent several amps there. normally around $100
The MTX Thunder 6000 T61544A is a 15" Subwoofer meaning you will need a 15" hole to fit the subwoofer into. The mounting plate that surrounds the subwoofer will extend past 15" allowing you to screw the sub in properly. Be sure to use a box that is at least 12 inches deep (sub is 10 inches deep by specifications + 2 inches for good air cushion behind.
I would hook up the subs in parallel set up. Lower the resistance causes the amp to create more power to the amp. Your amp can handle 2 ohm load so from my stand point it is best to set up this way. Here is the link that displays how to set up subs:
Are the positions colour coded in any way?
Red = Positive
Black = Negative
I've looked at some photo's from the website and at a guess I would say that yours are the push on crimp types, so no colour markings.
Have a look at the pdf wiring diagram they supply here as it may shed some light on things:
MTX Thunder US-XT12-44
I've looked over loads of forums but none seem to mention the wiring of these subs.
Understandably you want to get this right as they are a very nice set of subs when they're up and running.
If all else fails try looking at the MTX contact list and ringing one of their supported dealers for more info.
SINCE YOU NEED A 1 OHM LOAD, I PRESUME BRIDGED AND ARE USING TWO SUBS, THEN HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE THE DUAL VOICE COIL TYPE, AS THEY ARE DUAL 4 OHM AND YOU WILL HAVE TO CONNECT THE VOICE-COILS IN PARALLEL WHICH WILL MAKE EACH SPEAKER A 2 OHM SPEAKER AND THEN CONNECT THE TWO SPEAKERS THEMSELVES IN PARALLEL AND THIS WILL PROVIDE YOU THE 1 OHM LOAD. IF YOU IN FACT HAVE THE SINGLE 4 OHM VOICE COIL VERSION, THEN IT WILL ONLY PARALLEL THE PAIR DOWN TO 2 OHMS. OK. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.
My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.
First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.