- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
14 Nov 2013 - Watch Josh explain how to diagnose washing machine control and program problems. ... If you then suspect that the problem still lies in the circuit board ... to test the board and you'll actually just need to replace it altogether.
This is the Mark 6 board fitted to late Hotpoint washing machines. The module will be programmed to your model number - ready to fit. Typical models are WF550P WF560G .... Hotpoint Arcadia PCB Modules. SKU: 256. Hotpoint Arcadia PCB ...
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You have 3 sensors in your unit, a thermal sensor, a position sensor and a door lock switch. These components will prevent you from running but, would not affect your power.
I assume you checked your circuit breaker to make sure you have power to your washing machine.
The slightest change in power supply, electrical power surge or power outage will knock out your boards. Magnetic fields and static electricity will knock out your boards. Are your appliances near a main power supply line in your home?
All appliance manufacturers recommend surge protectors if you have control boards in your appliance. Individual wall socket surge protectors cost about $20.00 at your local Home Depot or where ever. This is a good investment.
Ok, your have 3 control boards in your unit. One is the digital display board which has nothing to due with power supply.
The others are your main control board and your control panel board. Each of which can turn off power. The highest probability is the main control board. The part number for this board is EBR 44289820. The part cost $225.00 locally. You can probably get it for $180.00 if you search the internet. This is item A450 on the following link.
Remember static electricity can not out a board. Ground yourself by rubbing your hands over something that is steel. Either unplug your unit or turn the power off at your household fuse box. There are several clips holding the board in the casing. you must push outward to remove the board. Inspect the circuit back side for burn marks. If there are no burn marks you can still have a board component failure. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY CONNECTOR PLUG IN. When you replace the board, you will replace one at a time.
E44 - It means "Door closure sensing circuit faulty".
Replace the circuit board and restart the diagnostic cycle to check further alarm condition.
When the washing programme is started by pressing the START/PAUSE button, the bi-metal PTC (contacts 3-5 on door interlock device, no.3 on electrical diagram) is powered by the triac (DOOR TY) on the PCB: after 2 - 4 seconds, this closes the switch (5-4) which powers the electrical components of the appliance (only if the door is closed). The door interlock prevents aperture of the door while the appliance is in operation.
Microprocessor recognize closure position by sensing circuit connected to J2-1 on electronic board.
At the end of the washing programme, the PCB disconnects the interlock from the power supply, but the door remains locked for 1 to 2 minutes (PTC cooling time).
The F11 code is saying that there is a problem with the motor or motor control board, both at the bottom of the machine. Most often the problem is not there but rather in the communications between the CCU circuit board and the motor or motor control board. The CCU circuit board (inside back, top of machine, plastic case) has what's called cold solder joints where the relays (5 of them) and the spade connectors are supposed to be firmly soldered to the circuit board. Whirlpool had a quality control problem with these circuit boards but won't recall them. The cure is to remove the CCU circuit board in the plastic case (it's easier that way) then remove the circuit board and touch-up those cold solder connections I mentioned. If your not up on soldering techniques, you can remove the CCU case, with the circuit board inside, and take it along with this response, to a good appliance repair shop and they should be able to help you out. Good luck.
You don't say which F code is showing but the problem you discribe could be a FdL or a F11 code. (If you open the panel under the door, 3 screws at the bottom of the machine, the code explanation sheet should be taped to the inside of the machine) In either case the problem is cold solder joints on the CCU circuit board. It seems that whirlpool had some bad quality control issues with these circuit boards. The repair is to take out the CCU circuit board (located inside the machine at the top back in a plastic case (also made of some poor plastic) It's easier to take out the whole plastic case then remove and repair the circuit board. The bad joints are where the spade connectors and the relays (5) are connected to the circuit board. If you're handy enough to resolder those points that's great! otherwise you should be able to take the circuit board, along with this response, to a good appliance repair shop and they should be able to help you out. Remember, this is a repair for the codes I mentioned, other codes would require a different repair. Good Luck.
If only one element does not work, then test heating element continuity using a multimeter. If oven does not bake or broil, then test temp
probe. If there is nothing wrong with elements and temp probe , then test wiring harness to
control panel and timer control board.
Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance: