During the was & heating cycle some water is drained and cold water is added on a short time loop. The correct wash temperature is then not reached, but wash continues. This started of intermitantly but is getting more constant now. The mashine functions correctly in all other aspects. Any help would be appriciated.
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Alarm code Description of fault User code Effect E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
hi... The cause of the problem is an insufficient rise in water temperature during a pre-set time period. The heater fault-detection program that was added to the electronic control is designed to shut down the dishwasher if the board-test for proper water temperature rise is not sufficient. The dishwasher run cycle was modified to add 8 minutes 45 seconds of heat at the beginning of the main wash cycle. If the inlet water at the thermistor is below 110°F, the thermistor looks for a water rise of 4°F. If the inlet water is over 110°F, the test is for an increase of 2°F. If the temperature rise is below specifications, the unit will drain and the clean light will blink seven times. You will need to identify possible causes of insufficient temperature rise. These causes may include checking the wiring to/failure of the control, the heating element, the thermistor, the inlet valve, door switch, motor or capacitor. Make sure that water is not siphoning during fill. Once the heater fault detection is triggered and the condition resolved, the electronic control must be reset by initiating a special diagnostic cycle. Use the Product Tech Sheet shipped with each dishwasher — you’ll find it behind the kickplates — to identify the correct cycle sequence. The rapid advance cycle will not properly reset the electronic control....
HEATED DRY.Turns the drying heater on for fast drying. ENERGY SAVER (no heat boost). Turns the drying heater off to save energy. Dishes will dry naturally over a longer period such as overnight. lf you need your dishes sooner, open the dishwasher door after the cycle is complete to reduce the natural drying time. Use of this option reduces the electrical energy used by this model approximately 7%. A rinse agent makes water flow off dishes quicker than usual. This lessens water spotting and makes drying faster, too. Make sure inlet water temperature is correct.(SeePage6.) Unload the bottom rack first.Water from dishes in the top rack may be spilling in to the bottom rack. Check for improper loading.Dishes shouldn’t nest together. Avoid overloading. Check the rinse agent dispenser to see that it’s not empty.
Inlet temperature....Good Dish washing starts with hot water, To get dishes clean and dry,you will need hot water.To help you get water of the proper temperature, your dish washer automatically heats the water in the wash cycle. For good washing and drying , the entering water must be at least 120°E To prevent dish damage, inlet water should not exceed 150”F. How to test water temperature: Check the water temperature inside your dishwasher with a candy or meat thermometer. Let the dishwasher run through one fill and pump out cycle, then let the dishwasher fill with water the second time. When you hear the water stop filling, unlatch the door and slowly open it. Measure the temperature of the water in the bottom of the tub this way: Remove the silverware basket and place a candy or meat thermometer in the water towards the middle of the tub. If the temperature is less than 120”F,you will not get good washing results. Higher water temperature is needed to dissolve grease and activate powder detergents. If the unit is a long way from the DW you may need to let the water run in the sink until hot before starting the DW....or if is a cold day and water has not been used in a while the pipes could be cold....also if you have just used the hot water ( washer, shower...etc) give it time to recover first before using DW....All of the above mentioned material is straight out of the Users guide...but you may have an element that is going out also...so check the temp of your water and open it during the drying cycle to see if it is hot or at least warm inside...if not your element may need to be replaced...
I hope this helps...have a great day & good luck...please rate my effort.... the Fang.
Some washing machines allow hot water to enter only during certain cycles. Others intermittently allow hot and cold to enter, to temper the temperature of the water. Consult your owner's manual if you are unsure about whether the machine is acting abnormally.
If you're sure the machine isn't working the way it used to--or should--try these tests:
* Is the hot water turned on? If not, turn it on.
* Is the washer getting cold water but no hot water? If so, check to see if the control panel settings are correct.
The cold water feeds for condenser cooling and for wash cycle drum fill are controlled by separate solenoid valves (manifolded together at the cold water inlet hose union).
When the solenoid on my condenser coolant valve failed a couple of years back, I got symptoms like yours. A new pair of valves isn't expensive to buy and is a trivial job to fit.
If this is what has been happening, suggest you also inspect the insides of your dryer fan and of the pump - neither of mine took really kindly to having been cooked for hours on end.