One channel dead - found one mosfet faulty + a resistor but still not working. Where can i download the free circuit of that amp.Is parts still availibile

It is possible that the amplifier had encountered a fault with a higher current drain which had triggered it to a protection fault condition. The fault can be your output drivers- the MOSFETS/IC's fitted for both the channels, Use a meter after disconnecting to check for short in the drivers.Now that you have found the damaged components you can change them.

These items can be pruchased from any electronic spares parts shop.

After the job is done before you power please check the following:

Disconnect the positive and negative voltages to the output and see if the protect changes. Even a fault in the preamp stages that drives in high current into the output can shut the Amplifier. Sometimes this can be a noise like a HUM or HISS before the protect works. Faulty capacitors in these circuits also can cause similar issues and needs close observation.
You need to confirm and replace the specific stages or outputs. If not there can be issues in the mother board, maybe the protect circuit by itself is shutting off due to a faulty bias , maybe a leak in any voltage/current sensing circuit. Also disconnect the speakers and test, if the protect is off then check for short on the speakers.

Oh yeah... know them well The IGBT transistors fail, the sand coated resistors blow open... replace as a pair. The driver transistors get blown... 2SA1020's and 2SC2655-Y's. One or more of the gate speedup diodes for the IGBT's get blown. The switching reg chips, IR2153 is usually gone. and more...

Here is your service manual: http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_europower-p0569_hca2400_sps1000_dpx_pmp-1280s_5000_sch.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. Ignore other "download links".

You will likely find that one of the power amps has shorted... been there, done that several times. Usually the channel A (rearmost) power amp shorts takeing out the 9140 Mosfets and other parts. Often an internal short between an interior and upper layer of the amp circuit board is the fault that causes all this. Use a light bulb (150 watt) in series with the power input when testing after repair. Use an isolation transformer when working on the supply for personal safety. When supply is running again, discharge the 70 volt source caps before plugging onto the amp to avoid welding arcs at the connectors. I have seen the supply hold charge for several days.

You have a bad blower motor resistor. It is located right behind your in-dash passenger-side glove box, and is bolted to the heating duct with 2 8mm hex screws. The replacement part usually runs about $85, but if you have a soldering gun and some handyman skills, you can replace the bad component (called a "mosfet") on the circuit board itself for about $2. The mosfet is basically a fancy resistor that allows you to control the blower speed by lowering the voltage that passes through it. It can be found at: www.mouser.com , part number 511-STP85NF55. Once you have the part removed from the van, you can locate the bad resistor right next to the aluminum heatsink. It's not only soldered to the circuit board, it's also glued & held tight to the heatsink by a metal clip. Good luck!

Oh, oh... got one on the bench now... There is a design defect that causes a short and destruction in the power amp portion.

Do a test: Plug headphones into the main 1/4 inch jacks. The sound won;t be very loud since these are line outputs, not for headphones.

IF you get sound out those, then one or both power amps are dead.

Worst case: if one amp is dead, several parts including three power MOSFET transistors are fried for any of the dead channels.
The failure of the amp can wipe out the main power supply. If you effect windows light up, then the small power supply is operating.
If the big supply is fried, there are two large MOSFET switching transistors that are gone. Often several smaller transistors and dides and resistors and one switching IC goes. MOST of these are surface mounted parts and would be beyond the scope of what you can repair.

I am trying to contact Behringer about the flaw but haven't heard back yet.

The nature of the flaw is this: The is insufficient clearance on an internal circuit layer from the edge that fits into a slot in the power amp heatsink. Any humidity that enters can cause the insulation to breakdown and arc to the heatsink causing a chain reaction.
I repaired one of these already before finding the cause, but this one had a smoking gun! I just yesterday milled out the slot deeper and wider and will put insulating tape to prevent further arcing. The arcing that had occured burned away the internal layer and the connections. I will replace thoose with hardwire.

Repair of this problem is time consuming to weed out all the blown parts and to safely bring the unit back to life.

The current unit I am working on took out ONLY the power amp. A 30 milliohm resistor went up in smoke making a real mess. All three power MOSFETS are gonzo and a zener as well... don't know what else I will find. The previous unit was worse as the power supply was wiped as well.

I just fix this unit,
1 Nch IRF140N
1 Pch IRF9140N
1 0.1 ohm 3w resistor at one of the mosfets
1 47 ohm 1/4w
1 220ohm 1/4w

The colour code or the value it states on R23 should give you the reading you will see on a test meter on the Ohm setting. If the value doesn't match the colour code of the resistor then you should replace it. It's best to take any resistor out of the circuit to test as strange readings can be caused in circuit. The same applies to the left channel one. Ohm meters are not expensive if you don't have one and can be got from various places that sell electronics parts etc. Some car part dealers sell them. They are a worthwhile investment and can be used for many types of problem.
It's likely that it's a basis resistor and failed when the power jobs went.

Replaced two N-Channel Mosfet transistors(FQPF13N50CF-ND) and some faulty electrolytic caps in the power supply. I found the Mosfets online at Digi-Key. Mosfets are difficult to read. Only one read bad but I replaced both because they are in the same circuit. Set works great now.

its better to change them all. than to change 1 or 2 mosfets, bcuz simetimes it affects the other mosfets. and please check your speaker or maybe there is an resistor, capacitors, or a relay malfunctioning in that area.

They are most likely a MOSFET type of transistor. If they are in the power supply part of the amp then you will probably need to replace all the MOSFET's in the power supply along with perhaps some gate control resistors for them. They each have their own resistors. It wouldn't hurt to see if the 494 IC in the power supply is working properly too. This IC is what sends the pulse width modulated square wave to the MOSFET's. Next you will want to test all the MOSFET's that are used as the audio output drivers and their predrivers and bias resistors. Don't forget to check the DC bias and offset on the outputs too, to make sure everything is OK there. In short, you will most likely need to go to a repair shop that can do all this and who would know what the heck I'm talking about. Good luck.

The IRFZ46N are n channel high speed switches . They basicly drive the Mosfets. Sounds like you have some problem there my friend, and unless you paid alot for this amp. Its going to need probobly all the n channel switches as well as every mosfet + the bias resistors repalced. Before plugging in the amp jump out the fuse with a 100 watt light bulb.. If the bulb glows brightly when you apply power there is still a short in the unit and could be in the switching power supply section of the amp. If it glows bright and dims, The shorts are most likly gone. The bulb will minimize the amount of current the unit can draw and most of the time wont let the new parts blow out. Check out this service number and see if they can help you. Good Luck Main support number 978-823-0300