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The blower motor or controls to it are at fault. The unit may need cleaning. Call a tech! There's so many reasons you are having trouble. Its hard to tell without looking/troubleshooting. About the only thing you can check is your air filter or the indoor coil, if you can see the air entering side, to see if its covered by debris. If the unit runs for an hour and stops, it may be a simple part. But it may end up being expensive if it persists.
The voltage thing is a normal for high ampere appliance and well within its design. However coming on for a short time and cutting off indicates a compressor running out of spec. Too high or low pressure. On a very humid period of several hours a unit too small for the cooling need can freeze over on the inside coil. Shutoff the unit for several hours to allow thawing. If in the 7 years of use the unit hasn't been dismounted and serviced there could be dirt and debris clogging the inside or outside coils. These finned coils are are aluminium and easily bent. If enough surface area is restricted by damage a repair may not be possible.
Check the refrigerant pressures. it may be turning off from low or high pressure limits with automatic resets. If you have a digital thermostat, there is a programming function in the installation instructions for setting the AC cycles per hour. If the AC is oversized, it will short cycle.
first thing you need to check is if the reversing valve is working you maybe running your A/C with the heat strips on depends on the t-stat your using some heat pumps will bring the strips on with a high degreedifference in setting and room temp .
1- turn t-stat to heat set temp 10 degrees above room temp if you have a programable t-stat it will have a time delay on it allow to for the outdoor unit to come on 2 to 5 minute usually .
2- walk around to the outdoor unit when it comes on feel the big line the insulated one and see if it is hot or cold let it run for a 5 minutes peel back the insulation and gently grab the line with your hand it maybe real hot so be careful if this line is hot then your heat pumps is working mechanically and if it is just warm then you may need the charge topped off
there are so many differentoption's from this point i will need to know the findings of this test first thanks : Michael
the unit may be knocking off on defrost if the coil is getting v cold,
check for full airflow over the indoor unit/evaporator coil, check filters fan operation and coil condition. Likewise it may be overheating so check the same on the outdoor unit/condenser clean coil and fan operation.
Unlikely but the unit may be under performing and slightly short on refrigerant, not providing enough suction cooling to the compressor motor so the internal over temp klixon would cut it off for short periods, to cool the motor.
Without knowing what the problem was with the old board, you're not going to be able to figure much out, I don't think.
Did you check that temperature sensor I mentioned? You will have to pull the top off to get access to it. Normally found connected to one of the tubes for the coil, silver in color, with 2 wires connected to it, near the bottom of the base of the unit.
tech answer is:3 pints of water per hour per 1 ton of cooling.
General rule of thumb is 20-25% of the capacity of the unit is devoted to dehumidifying.
If unit runs constantly and the temp really does not seem to be effected, unit is probably too small. If unit runs and cycles off frequently, i.e. short run times, and humidity is high, unit is too big.
your unit sounds like it is short cycling on low pressure. find the cylindrical thing on the larger line in the unit.it will have two low voltage wires coming out of it. trace those two wires back to where they go and turn off the unit so you can install a jumper across them. turn on the unit and see if it keeps short cycling or if it is running more normal. if it runs more normal then you are most likely low on freon or a slight chance of an airflow restriction