Have to shake key to turn key on sometimes it won't start but it will start with push backwards have replaced switch behind clutch

It should mount right behind the clutch pedal. When you push pedal the switch should engage when pedal is let out the switch disengages kinda like the brake light switch but backwards.

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

It's called the clutch start switch. Yes, it could be bad or needs adjustment.

Push the clutch in and the switch closes contact, so power flows from the ignition switch start position to the clutch switch and on to the starter motor-well, actually to the starter solenoid on the starter motor. If you have a voltmeter or test light, you can test the clutch switch . A red and white wire to it and a red wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. When this wire gets to the solenoid, it is a black wire with red stripe. It should have voltage when key is held in start position and the clutch pedal is depressed.

you may have a bad clutch switch which will only allow the car to start with the clutch pedal depressed.it allows power through the switch only with it depressed to start the car so you won`t start the car with it in gear causing an accident.there will be a switch that the clutch pedal pushes against that allows power to flow through it to start the car.there should be power on one side with the key turned on and power on the other side with the clutch depressed.

If you mean that you can physically push the vehicle and start it by popping the clutch in 1st gear there is a small safety switch when you press the clutch down all the way it presses in the switch which enables your ignition circuit to work. you can use a circuit tester with the key on one side will have power and the other won"t. Now if the switch functions properly when the key is on and the switch/button pressed in both sides should have power if not get a new switch or you could bypass it by removing the switch and connecting both wires together but I'd highly recommend replacing the safety switch as opposed to the alternative

ck neutral safety switch or ignition switch,,

First, make sure you can turn the engine by hand. If you can't then the starter can't turn it either. Have someone else turn the key and look for the source of the click...may be a relay. Go over the starting circuit with a volt meter. Check for power at the starter main terminal and then with the key turned to "start" check for power at the trigger terminal on the starter. Check battery voltage and check relay operation.
You have a neutral safety switch on the transmission if its an automatic and a clutch switch if it's a stick. Check them as well. Make sure battery grounding on fender and block are also clean and secure.

Switch is pretty much just a push button. You can easily check it by looking at it and making sure it's fully out with the clutch depressed (may be out of adjustment) Or, you can jump across the switch terminals and in neutral, with brake engaged and clutch pressed to the floor, see if the starter engages when you turn the key. (never do this with anyone standing in front of or behind the car, or in a place where you will run into anything if it happens to be in gear. If it starts with switch bypassed, the switch is defective. Otherwise, check the wiring going to and from the switch.

I used to own a 93 and sometimes key wouldn't turn forward. While turning key also turn/shake steering wheel. Worked for me as I recall.

I had the same problem. Turned out to be the clutch interlock switch mounted under the clutch pedal. A combination of the clutch pedal and switch mount being there for 15 years and had bent just a little not allowing the switch to be fully depressed and my floormats getting behind the clutch pedal not allowing the pedal to push the switch all the way. You can press the switch by hand and turn the key (making sure the truck is in neutral of course). If it starts reliably every time you found the problem. I adjusted the switch out by disconnecting the wire to the switch and loosening the 14mm nut behind the switch and turning the switch out a couple of turns. When moved out a bit and keeping the floormat from behind the clutch pedal, voila, starts every time. This fix came after a new battery, new starter, new battery cables and still the intermittent no crank was present. Start with the cheap/free stuff first and move on from there if needed :-)