Question about Sunbeam 2370 MixMaster Series Stand Mixer

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Sunbeam Mixmaster I have a Sunbeam stand mixer, #MMA. I need a speed control unit as the contacts have burned up. This is a great mixer and I do not want to discard it. Thanks for the assistance.

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: sunbeam mixer

When you open it, there is are contact points and a piece that has to touch to change the speed. It may just be slightly bent or out of place. Some food may have gotten in there.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Sunbeam Mixmaster mixer is smoking from the motor or the back are

you fried the motor it is not worth repairing

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: need a splatter guard

Has it not a speed control?

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Sunbeam Mixmaster 12 speed may need lubrication

Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.

On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-

There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.

On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.

Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.

Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.

Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.

The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.

After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)

Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.

Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.

Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..

There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.

Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.

Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.

Part 2, speed control.

The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....

Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.

Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.

Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.

Put everything back the way it came off.

To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.

Replace the chrome cap and you're done.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

  • 1734 Answers

SOURCE: I need a User Manual

Check here, I guess they can get you virtually every Sunbeam manual

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Turntable does not turn. Motor runs. Beaters work.

I have the same one, and the turn table has never turned on it's own. from looking at the bottom of the stand, i think the mixers are supposed to turn the bowl, so i just give it a little turn, and the mixers kinda take care of the rest. BTW, i got 2 sets of beaters with mine and i dont know what the second set is for, do you? contact me at

Posted on Dec 18, 2010

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I have a Sunbeam Mixmaster 2351 Heritage Series that the speed dial control numbers fade. Sunbeam replaced my mixer but want to prevent the same problem for reoccurring, Any suggestions?

I would propose to solution to your problem,
one. Try getting some clear contact and cutting a a square or circle a little more than the size of the dial. Removed the dial if possible and later clear contact over the surface.
Two. Get some clear nail polish and cover the markings on the dial with thin coat.
Warning warning warning!!! (Test the nail polish on a surface that is not exposed, for example underneath) to make sure that the nail polish does not react with the surface of the mixer.

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Vintage Sunbeam Mixmaster MXG makes a strange noise and has a burning smell when operating. Is there anyway I can fix this?

the motor is burning out at the coil you can send it into a electric motor re winder but it could be expensive look them up in your local directory

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Sunbeam Mixmaster... where's the model number?

Lift up the head, should be right by where you insert the blades

Jan 24, 2010 | Sunbeam 2366 MixMaster Series Hand/Stand...

1 Answer

Mixmaster motor won't spin. Leads from circuit board to motor read 119 volts at the motor. voltage does not vary when speed knob is rotated but does turn off & on. 275 W sunbeam mixmaster, white...

so far I determined the thermal fuse had blown. I jumped around it but can get replacement. Now the motor runs full speed when turned on. I suspect the pot turned by the speed knob is bad. Having trouble locating a replacement circuit board.

Jan 19, 2010 | Sunbeam 2366 MixMaster Series Hand/Stand...

1 Answer

Sunbeam Mixmaster is smoking from the motor.

I wouldn't turn it on again , if the switch is smoking then for all practical purpose;s the brush;s are nearly shot as well. I would look around the good will thrift shops or a Salvation Army Store you ;ll find a nice one there for less than a repair bill. You never know what you will find there. Have fun hunting.. DFD please rate me. Tku

Apr 11, 2009 | Sunbeam 200 Watts 2372 MixMaster Series...

1 Answer

Turntable does not turn. Motor runs. Beaters work.

I have the same one, and the turn table has never turned on it's own. from looking at the bottom of the stand, i think the mixers are supposed to turn the bowl, so i just give it a little turn, and the mixers kinda take care of the rest. BTW, i got 2 sets of beaters with mine and i dont know what the second set is for, do you? contact me at

Feb 18, 2009 | Sunbeam Food Mixers

2 Answers

Sunbeam Mixmaster Heritage Series Model 2350 speed problem

The speed control on the back is simply a variable resistance potentiometer, the same thing that controls the volume on older amplifiers. The output current to the motor is supplied by the printed circuit board in the bottom of the unit. This allows gradual increases in speed to avoid over-torquing the motor on speedup. Even the poshy-posh-posh mixers do this.

At least it still works. The most common problem is the cheap plastic drive gears that strip out with a mild cookie dough, this jams the beaters together and requires burial-at-dumpster.

Dec 14, 2008 | Sunbeam 2346 Heritage MixMaster Series...

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