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Carrier Humidifier Does not work

Model is Humcclfp1218A. I checked that there is continuity from the humidistat after turning it to the point where it clicks. I also read 24 volts from the leads attached to the furnace and there is 120v AC supplied to the fan of the humidifier. When the furnace starts up, the humidifier fan does not run and water is also not supplied to the element. Could the problem be the circuit board inside the fan assembly?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Joe_Rex
  • 114 Answers

SOURCE: Installation problem

I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES. INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT. IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE. I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT. YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT". NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.

Posted on Apr 28, 2007

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machtcl1
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: wiring problem

Sounds like you may have put 120v through a 24v solenoid and humidistat.
Is the HUM terminal on the furnace 120v or 24v?
If it is a 120v terminal you will need a 120x24v transformer and a new solenoid and maybe a new humidistat.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: No water to my Aprilair model 550.

Some sump pump have a safty switch that will not let the hum. come on if the tank is full of water, I,m not sure if this is the type that you have but make sure that the pump is pumping water. Also your humidistat have an internal switch that it should be set to bypass not to power Note: some humidifier have their own power supply the 550 dose not

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 252 Answers

SOURCE: I have a carrier furnace, humidifier valve popped fuse

hook up the new transformer to the white (common) from the blower motor, and the lead from the blower motor hooked up to the heat term on the board. (just cut the wires and wire nut all three together)

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

HVACjake
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: Honeywell HE260 leaks somewhere

Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Humidifier Running Continuously with Fan Blower


As long as the humidifier start/stop is regulated by air flow there is no way to cycle it on/off with another device. If, however you disconnect that capability and, instead wire it to the heat on cool on switch it will only turn on when the stat calls for heating or cooling. You may need to install an intermediate relay off the stat wires to regulate the different(assuming that they are) voltage of the humidifier start/stop.What a fun project, thanks!

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My carrier humidifier has a hose which drains into the laundry sink and a lot of water is coming out. Should this happen in winter? I thought water should only come out in the summer?


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I have a Carrier humidifier model #HUMCCLBP2217-A. It appears to be working, but every time it shuts off it emits a very loud "thump". The noise is loud enough to wake me up at night. I have...


Do you feel like looking at the humidifier yourself?
You can open the door on the unit, while the furnace is running--
The humidifier is usually installed in the return air duct, so there will be a sucking of air into the open door, when you open it.

There is usually a large wheel, with a wet pad wrapped around the circumference.
This wheel rotates slowly, and picks up water from the sump-- does everything look and sound quiet as it runs? -- The float valve has to open and close, to c ontrol the leve of water in the sump-- (The pool of water the wheel runs the mat thru--
Possibly the valve shutting off, could make a plumbing BANG-- you could duplicate that, by lifting the float mechanism and stopping the water-- does that make the noise?

If you can reach and operate the Humidistat control from near the humidifier, do so a few time-- or Have someone cycle the humidistat a few times, and you listen for that sound--
Is it in the humidifier itself, or the duct work nearby?

It might be that the humidistat wheel scrapes against the side of the sheet metal duct work? -- Sounds travel a long ways in metal duct work!

Let us know if this helps

Mack B

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Hope this helps, check and see if humidistat is set to 35% humidity and that bypass damper on humidifier is in the open position or winter position.(humidistat is usually located on cold air return duct near furnace). Next, replace humidifier media pad, remember to replace media pad (filter) annually, you also may want to clean any lime deposit out of humidifier housing with a solution of warm water and white vinegar before installing your new media filter.Remember to turn power off at side of furnace when cleaning humidifier and replacing media. Before installing new media turn power back on to furnace, set humidistat to the on position, turn furnace thermostat above room temp., and inspect humidifier to see if water is running from top,(you may want to have a bucket under humidifier when checking for water), if you see water running, turn power back off to furnace, properly install new media filter, reconnect humidifier cover & set humidistat to 35%. If you do not see water present, check water supply valve to humidifier and make sure its turned on. If water supply valve is open, then check water supply tubing for blockage.And the last things to check is to make sure all registers through out your home are open and not blocked by any objects, also make sure furnace filter is cleaned, if none of this works refer to installation manual to see if humidifier was sized and installed properly, Good luck.

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In order of probability:
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2) (shorted wires) Check that two wires to humidistat are not touching...use your glasses if you need them!
3) (bad humidistat) disconnect the humidistat and put an ohmmeter accoss the two terminals when it is turned on you should read 0 ohms, and when off it should read infinate ohms, if not pass both these tests, you need new humidistat.
That is it, there are no other possibilites!

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